Mister Bally

10 Piece Bearing Race And Seal Driver Set

Item #63261

Here's my well used set.

PaulW

Thanks.....I have used that set before but when I searched Harbor Freight I believe it's a "10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set"....that's why I couldn't find it. If it has the perfect size, that would be great!

Mister Bally

Perfect size for the UCA bushings and wheel bearings on the A8.
Wheel bearings andsubframe bushings on MK1 TT's and New Beetles as well.

Galco

Paul W great write up, many thanks! It would be of interest to how well this lasts after a few thousand miles. As this is an economical solution to a common problem to our D3s. However, when I looked into this sometime ago, I was told it wasn't recommended because the soft aluminum arms stretch a bit when pressing bushings out and back in and create a larger opening for a lose fit and therefore a short bushing life a possible clunking. Since I have never done this, but want to, please report back on ride quality and longevity.

Thanks and Happy New Year!

MP4.2+6.0

FWIW, std. dealer practice is/was to replace bushings only, and all Audi paid when done under warranty. They did bushings only on my D3 W12 inside of 4/50 warranty. When I pulled them out for the next change (post 4/50 and later CPO), I didn't see anything unusual with arms and had no clicking type noise from them like you might get metal to metal. I did have that in wheel bearings a bit, for which there was a separate TSB. I started to see front inner tire wear when I did them the second time, which is a classic sign the bushings are worn.

Mister Bally

There is a bushing only procedure in the service manual. I can tell you that using my calibrated arms from pumping the hydraulic press that there is no noticeable "loose fit" when pressing in new bushings.

Also, everyone note that the low cost arms with ball joints and bushings (that sometimes cost less than an OEM bushing only) are total junk. You get what you pay for. OEM/OES are fine and if you don't have a press, complete arm replacement with and OEM/OES part is a fine alternative.

SS_RTR

Thanks for the write-up and pictures. I was working on my headlight today and decided to take a good look at my upper control on bushings when I was removing the bumper cover. The passenger side forward upper control arm bushing was shot, It's mostly out, with the arm rubbing against the strut mount, I have the press and have done my wheel bearings so I've order bearing and sleeve kit as well as the new bushings. The left side and all lowers look good.

Audiheavy

Great write-up and photos, Just did this myself, but had a local shop machine a simple fitting to press out the old bushing. Also took the extra step of buying one of those needle injectors that fit on a standard grease gun. Worked the small-end spring clip off the ball joint boot and injected a fresh load of moly grease into the ball joint between the boot and the arm. Took a bit of monkeying to get the clip back on, but entirely doable.

SS_RTR

Bearing and race set worked well for me. I still may need similar sockets for the install. It took longer to get the strut out than it did to press out the bushings, and unfortunately, I've gotten good at removing air struts. The inside of one bushing fell out when I unbolted it but I could already hear it clunking around with I was removing the other end of the control arm from the knuckle.

PaulW

Just wanted to update this thread with the link to the sway bar bushing replacement thread:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...iment-2932568/

After doing the control arm bushings, I had a plastic-to-plastic squeak in my suspension, replaced the sway bar bushings (see my notes further down the thread) and OMG, the car is absolutely incredible. The whole thing is so smooth!

So I replaced the four upper control arm bushings, the sway bar end links and then the sway bar bushings. It's like a brand new car at 80K miles.