Hitch installation – my experience (Part 1)
06-10-2013, 05:15 AM
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Hitch installation – my experience (Part 1)
Hello, everyone!
I hope that experience will help someone one day and maybe will save some time for someone. Thanks a lot to MP4.2+6.0 for many previous posts that guided me on that path. I still have questions about electrical parts and I'll post those Qs in Part 2.
Anyway, I've ordered the A8 hitch for my D3 with 7 pin Audi Dedicated electronics from GB. It was twice less expensive if I would order it from the USA from eurohich.
It took 3 days to deliver it from GB to Canada
On Saturday June 8 at 8 AM I've started the installation process based on provided Westfalia instructions.
1. Pull all cover inside of the trunk. That was very easy exercise. I do not think any write ups needs to be done here. Few bolts to pull and few clips to detach
2. Bumper cover removal. That took quite some time mainly because of unknown things and I've been scared by MP4.2+6.0 about 100 turns on each side to release the bumper. In reality it was not that difficult, just time consuming. Below you’ll find the instructions and the picture with bumper released from the sides (just pull it on the side and that’s it once all bolts have been released). Also, make sure to use the right direction when releasing mounting strip. Right side – clockwise, left side counterclocwise.
3. That's it. Then I pulled the bumper cover off and detach all electrical parts from the parking assistance. Here is what you'll see
4. Next step to take the bumper off and let muffler loose a little bit.
5. Then I've installed the hitch and wired the electrical part. Nothing complicated
6. Then assembled everything in reversed order.
All those steps took exactly 6 hours of labor. I took a brake and decided to process with electrical part of the installation.
1. I followed the instructions. Basically remove the battery, took off power management and etc. No problem.
2. But then the instruction recommends to install the cable harness to position 6,7 and 8 in my fuse box. Surprisingly, but I had fuses there. So, I had to use the last 3 available slots. Not a big dial, but still, the instructions and what I had are somewhat different.
3. Followed the rest of the instructions (I will not list them here). Everything was pretty fine except pin 20 in my case is black with red stripe when they said it should be red with black stripe. So that was my concern.
4. Finally I've assembled everything back and started the engine for the first time. Here is what I've started to see.
I didn't like it. Also here is the scan errors:
https://forums.audiworld.com/attachm...1&d=1370870187
I took a break as that exercise took another 2 hours.
In about 1 hour I came back, started the car and did the test drive. Everything was ok, except the backup camera no longer had the marks with distances. But then after driving a little bit the sign disappeared and everything s was OK. I’ve scanned the errors again and here is what I had.
But then I had to drive next day and I had the signal on the dash indicating my left turn signal is not working. When I turn left it is ticking twice faster than when I turn right. But when I look at the tails everything is fine. The issue is not consistent. Nest time I’ve started everything is wine and etc.
The next post I’ll ask some Qs
I hope that experience will help someone one day and maybe will save some time for someone. Thanks a lot to MP4.2+6.0 for many previous posts that guided me on that path. I still have questions about electrical parts and I'll post those Qs in Part 2.
Anyway, I've ordered the A8 hitch for my D3 with 7 pin Audi Dedicated electronics from GB. It was twice less expensive if I would order it from the USA from eurohich.
It took 3 days to deliver it from GB to Canada
On Saturday June 8 at 8 AM I've started the installation process based on provided Westfalia instructions.
1. Pull all cover inside of the trunk. That was very easy exercise. I do not think any write ups needs to be done here. Few bolts to pull and few clips to detach
2. Bumper cover removal. That took quite some time mainly because of unknown things and I've been scared by MP4.2+6.0 about 100 turns on each side to release the bumper. In reality it was not that difficult, just time consuming. Below you’ll find the instructions and the picture with bumper released from the sides (just pull it on the side and that’s it once all bolts have been released). Also, make sure to use the right direction when releasing mounting strip. Right side – clockwise, left side counterclocwise.
3. That's it. Then I pulled the bumper cover off and detach all electrical parts from the parking assistance. Here is what you'll see
4. Next step to take the bumper off and let muffler loose a little bit.
5. Then I've installed the hitch and wired the electrical part. Nothing complicated
6. Then assembled everything in reversed order.
All those steps took exactly 6 hours of labor. I took a brake and decided to process with electrical part of the installation.
1. I followed the instructions. Basically remove the battery, took off power management and etc. No problem.
2. But then the instruction recommends to install the cable harness to position 6,7 and 8 in my fuse box. Surprisingly, but I had fuses there. So, I had to use the last 3 available slots. Not a big dial, but still, the instructions and what I had are somewhat different.
3. Followed the rest of the instructions (I will not list them here). Everything was pretty fine except pin 20 in my case is black with red stripe when they said it should be red with black stripe. So that was my concern.
4. Finally I've assembled everything back and started the engine for the first time. Here is what I've started to see.
I didn't like it. Also here is the scan errors:
https://forums.audiworld.com/attachm...1&d=1370870187
I took a break as that exercise took another 2 hours.
In about 1 hour I came back, started the car and did the test drive. Everything was ok, except the backup camera no longer had the marks with distances. But then after driving a little bit the sign disappeared and everything s was OK. I’ve scanned the errors again and here is what I had.
But then I had to drive next day and I had the signal on the dash indicating my left turn signal is not working. When I turn left it is ticking twice faster than when I turn right. But when I look at the tails everything is fine. The issue is not consistent. Nest time I’ve started everything is wine and etc.
The next post I’ll ask some Qs
Last edited by Vicl; 06-10-2013 at 11:06 AM.
06-14-2013, 01:23 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Hitch info...
Th Euro hitch replaces the concealed aluminum rail and its shock mount/absorbers that are hidden under the plastic bumper cover. You can see that rail in his pictures. Bumper cover is (very cleanly) replaced over it, and is cut underneath where the hitch removable arm and wiring are located. See my recent pictures you asked about for that.
You don't touch the back up sensors, other than they come out temporarily with the bumper cover. In the Westfalia wiring, they integrate so that when you go into towing mode (by either selecting it in MMI or simply plugging in a trailer electrically to the car at the hitch plug) they are disabled (in back only). Otherwise it picks up the forward part of the trailer tongue area. I definitely know that from backing up to connect the two where the rear sensors see it approaching even as just a three inch wide fairly narrow pointed sort of obstacle.
He has run into unfortunate wiring issues. From Part 3 it sounds like it was a simple loose connector in the end. Save for my W12 undocumented rear seat video, my wiring and VAG COM configuration went fine and was uneventful.
It's expensive (much more than port installed typical U.S. 2" square box hitch on Q5 or Q7 for example); I bought 4+ years ago. I think Vici got the price down some by buying through alternate channels. He can answer.
You don't touch the back up sensors, other than they come out temporarily with the bumper cover. In the Westfalia wiring, they integrate so that when you go into towing mode (by either selecting it in MMI or simply plugging in a trailer electrically to the car at the hitch plug) they are disabled (in back only). Otherwise it picks up the forward part of the trailer tongue area. I definitely know that from backing up to connect the two where the rear sensors see it approaching even as just a three inch wide fairly narrow pointed sort of obstacle.
He has run into unfortunate wiring issues. From Part 3 it sounds like it was a simple loose connector in the end. Save for my W12 undocumented rear seat video, my wiring and VAG COM configuration went fine and was uneventful.
It's expensive (much more than port installed typical U.S. 2" square box hitch on Q5 or Q7 for example); I bought 4+ years ago. I think Vici got the price down some by buying through alternate channels. He can answer.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 06-14-2013 at 01:44 PM.
06-15-2013, 04:38 PM
#5
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ltooz_a6_a8_q7! The hitch you've listed is not good for sure.
Class I Towing capacities up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) GTW (Gross Trailer Weight) and 200 lbs (90 kg) TW (Tongue Weight)
Class II = 3,500 lbs (1,587 kg) GTW and 350 (158 kg) lbs TW
Class III = Rated up to 6,000 lbs (2,721kg) GTW with 600 lbs (272 kg) TW
Europe has different standards.
GTW = 5,511 lb (2,500 kg) GTW and 210 lbs (95 kg) TW
It is definitely capable to tow almost as Class III hitch in NA classification.
The hitch you show has very week connection and I would not trade mine for it.
I bought it on http://www.pfjones.co.uk/tow-bars/au...8-tow-bar.html
The price listed there includes the VAT tax. When they send outside of country it will have no VAT tax.
For me the cost of Hitch (http://www.pfjones.co.uk/a8-2002-det...e-tow-bar.html) and 7 pin Audi Dedicated Electric = 432.00 Pounds and 170 pounds delivery. Total price is 602 pounds = 945 USD.
I recommend to buy 7 pin Audi dedicated electrics as really it is 13 pin and less cost + 13 pin to 7 pin adapter included.
Let me know if you'll have any questions.
Class I Towing capacities up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) GTW (Gross Trailer Weight) and 200 lbs (90 kg) TW (Tongue Weight)
Class II = 3,500 lbs (1,587 kg) GTW and 350 (158 kg) lbs TW
Class III = Rated up to 6,000 lbs (2,721kg) GTW with 600 lbs (272 kg) TW
Europe has different standards.
GTW = 5,511 lb (2,500 kg) GTW and 210 lbs (95 kg) TW
It is definitely capable to tow almost as Class III hitch in NA classification.
The hitch you show has very week connection and I would not trade mine for it.
I bought it on http://www.pfjones.co.uk/tow-bars/au...8-tow-bar.html
The price listed there includes the VAT tax. When they send outside of country it will have no VAT tax.
For me the cost of Hitch (http://www.pfjones.co.uk/a8-2002-det...e-tow-bar.html) and 7 pin Audi Dedicated Electric = 432.00 Pounds and 170 pounds delivery. Total price is 602 pounds = 945 USD.
I recommend to buy 7 pin Audi dedicated electrics as really it is 13 pin and less cost + 13 pin to 7 pin adapter included.
Let me know if you'll have any questions.
06-15-2013, 08:59 PM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Can you get back to the original wiring? Why all these failures electrically? The instruction was wrong? The wiring harness was bad? What went wrong? What's the original connection from Audi? Does anyone has the pins connection? Yes, you have a nice hitch but if the electrical is hay-wired then what's the use?
Why can't we get the original plug from AUDI?
What do we need to hook up to the plug? brake light, signals, parking lights?
Cheers,
Louis
Why can't we get the original plug from AUDI?
What do we need to hook up to the plug? brake light, signals, parking lights?
Cheers,
Louis
06-15-2013, 10:29 PM
#7
AudiWorld Super User
I'll take a little different view here; it depends
Class 1 is the "entry" level for U.S. specs, typically w/ the (small) 1 1/4" hitch bar. Class 2 is the common passenger car and small SUV level for towing up to 3500 or 4,000 pounds; smaller boats and pop up campers, likely single axle trailers. Class 1 is lightweight and not that strong as far as the typical metal sizing, but especially in terms of how substantially it bolts in to the vehicle and thus the load it can take.
On the other hand, if all you want to tow is no more than a single jet ski on a small trailer, or hang a couple of bikes off a rack, then it could work. A jet ski type single trailer is small enough to be unbraked as well. At least the picture looks like it bolts in where the D3 bumper shocks attached, and when I pulled mine there was some meat to that area. That's better than some of the prior aftermarket Class 1 junk I've seen that simply bolted to the spare tire well sheet metal and the bumper assembly--back when the spare tire well was still metal.
Last, there is no wire harness here. That still needs to be answered for any legit trailer, no matter the size, and whether separately braked or not.
On the other hand, if all you want to tow is no more than a single jet ski on a small trailer, or hang a couple of bikes off a rack, then it could work. A jet ski type single trailer is small enough to be unbraked as well. At least the picture looks like it bolts in where the D3 bumper shocks attached, and when I pulled mine there was some meat to that area. That's better than some of the prior aftermarket Class 1 junk I've seen that simply bolted to the spare tire well sheet metal and the bumper assembly--back when the spare tire well was still metal.
Last, there is no wire harness here. That still needs to be answered for any legit trailer, no matter the size, and whether separately braked or not.
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06-17-2013, 03:11 AM
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ltooz_a6_a8_q7!
If you read the Part 3 of my experience you will see the instructions and everything were right!!! But all issues I had are due to the not fully engaged connector. When I was assembling back all electrical parts I didn't engage in just one plug. That was the reason why the first day everything was working fine! The next day I had the first error related to the tail light and then the lights started to go out more and more.
Finally, I've unplugged the 32 pin blue connector with live battery. That was the result of electrical latch issue. As soon as I've pulled that 32 pin connector I could hear the noise as you close the latch. I didn't pay attention to that. But in reality that electrical motor pulled the latch in close position! Then when Audi people were looking at the issues they closed the trunk few times – that completely break the one plastic gear as the electrical motor tried to pull latch that is already in the CLOSE position. I pulled the 32 pin to rewire it back to original, but as soon as I did it nothing was working at all
I guess I disturbed the other connector a little more and it was enough . That’s where I was in panic and thought no more experiments. I’m too old for it
Anyway. The bottom line... It was just one unfortunate event that drives all that unpleasant experience. At the end of the day I have hitch, I have working electrical system and hitch electrical system. Downside – extra cost to find the plug that just needed to be plugged properly = $275 and broken gear for electrical latch that is potential the same cost. If I'll manage to find just the gear I'll be very happy. $300 for the lesson to double check everything is not bad price!
Also comment on the hitch you posted on the link. I was considering it at some point. But really I do not see how it could be even a class 1! The body is aluminium and they recommend attaching it to 3 bolts on each side. To me it is not safe at all. It is a matter of time before it will break it.
If you read the Part 3 of my experience you will see the instructions and everything were right!!! But all issues I had are due to the not fully engaged connector. When I was assembling back all electrical parts I didn't engage in just one plug. That was the reason why the first day everything was working fine! The next day I had the first error related to the tail light and then the lights started to go out more and more.
Finally, I've unplugged the 32 pin blue connector with live battery. That was the result of electrical latch issue. As soon as I've pulled that 32 pin connector I could hear the noise as you close the latch. I didn't pay attention to that. But in reality that electrical motor pulled the latch in close position! Then when Audi people were looking at the issues they closed the trunk few times – that completely break the one plastic gear as the electrical motor tried to pull latch that is already in the CLOSE position. I pulled the 32 pin to rewire it back to original, but as soon as I did it nothing was working at all
I guess I disturbed the other connector a little more and it was enough . That’s where I was in panic and thought no more experiments. I’m too old for it Anyway. The bottom line... It was just one unfortunate event that drives all that unpleasant experience. At the end of the day I have hitch, I have working electrical system and hitch electrical system. Downside – extra cost to find the plug that just needed to be plugged properly = $275 and broken gear for electrical latch that is potential the same cost. If I'll manage to find just the gear I'll be very happy. $300 for the lesson to double check everything is not bad price!
Also comment on the hitch you posted on the link. I was considering it at some point. But really I do not see how it could be even a class 1! The body is aluminium and they recommend attaching it to 3 bolts on each side. To me it is not safe at all. It is a matter of time before it will break it.
06-17-2013, 08:17 AM
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Vicl,
Please summarize on what NOT to do and what TO do to get the electrical connection to work perfectly. I may buy that cheap Curt hitch (for some reason, I do believe in US Steel) for carrying skis and bikes, sometimes a little uhaul thing for transporting stuff.
Now, for just carrying skis and bikes, I don't need the wiring harness, all I need is to turn on the towing option int he settings, and the rear parking sensors are disabled?
Thanks,
Louis
Please summarize on what NOT to do and what TO do to get the electrical connection to work perfectly. I may buy that cheap Curt hitch (for some reason, I do believe in US Steel) for carrying skis and bikes, sometimes a little uhaul thing for transporting stuff.
Now, for just carrying skis and bikes, I don't need the wiring harness, all I need is to turn on the towing option int he settings, and the rear parking sensors are disabled?
Thanks,
Louis
06-17-2013, 08:45 AM
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Hello, ltooz_a6_a8_q7!
It is certainly your choice!
Here is the price break down in my case:
Audi A8 2007 Westfalia Detachable tow bar: 272 GBP
Audi A8 Dedicated Electrics: 7 Pin 160 GBP
UPS Standard Shipping from GB to CA: 170 GBP
You have to really think where you will order the electrical part from. I recommend buying the Audi Dedicated electrics. It is more expensive, but it will definitely work. The friend of mine bought from eBay the universal one for about $40 USD, but he had to buy dedicated one at the end as his Audi A8 always complained about tail lights.
Anyway, if you order the electrics from USA => http://www.eurohitches.com/a8-4e-wiring-2004-p-23.html it will cost $605 USD + delivery. In the UK it is 160 GBP, but delivery will bump the cost up. Even with delivery you will get the less expensive anyway.
The connections are simple. Just follow the instructions. To summarize it :
1 – add power to the Trailer box (we are talking about 3 fuses). To do that you’ll have to pull the battery off and pretty much everything from the right side of your trunk. That’s when you’ll have to disconnect all connectors. And you’ll find just a few.
2 – The next step is to re-wire blue connector with 32 pin. It is easy as well. Make sure to follow instructions. 5 wires will go off the 32 pin connector and will be replaced with other wires. And the original wires will go directly to the trailer controller
3- Assemble everything back. That’s where I did my first mistake. I remember the plug that didn’t go well... Instead of pulling it off and put it back – I’ve tried once to pull it, but something was holding it. I thought it is OK then. In reality in few days it started to go out more and more and that’s when I had all those issues
Basically after step 3 everything should be back to normal. Once you’ll plug the power you’ll have few errors related to the Pin 30 and to the wheel angle sensor. You have to drive a bit and it will go away, then you’ll have to clean the errors.
To code Trailer controller you have to choose it first from the list of controllers (go do 19 – Controller list). Then you code Engine, ABS, Ais Suspension, back up camera and parking sensors. That’s pretty much it. The coding is simple too, you’ll just add 1 to specific position indicating trailer.
It is certainly your choice!
Here is the price break down in my case:
Audi A8 2007 Westfalia Detachable tow bar: 272 GBP
Audi A8 Dedicated Electrics: 7 Pin 160 GBP
UPS Standard Shipping from GB to CA: 170 GBP
You have to really think where you will order the electrical part from. I recommend buying the Audi Dedicated electrics. It is more expensive, but it will definitely work. The friend of mine bought from eBay the universal one for about $40 USD, but he had to buy dedicated one at the end as his Audi A8 always complained about tail lights.
Anyway, if you order the electrics from USA => http://www.eurohitches.com/a8-4e-wiring-2004-p-23.html it will cost $605 USD + delivery. In the UK it is 160 GBP, but delivery will bump the cost up. Even with delivery you will get the less expensive anyway.
The connections are simple. Just follow the instructions. To summarize it :
1 – add power to the Trailer box (we are talking about 3 fuses). To do that you’ll have to pull the battery off and pretty much everything from the right side of your trunk. That’s when you’ll have to disconnect all connectors. And you’ll find just a few.
2 – The next step is to re-wire blue connector with 32 pin. It is easy as well. Make sure to follow instructions. 5 wires will go off the 32 pin connector and will be replaced with other wires. And the original wires will go directly to the trailer controller
3- Assemble everything back. That’s where I did my first mistake. I remember the plug that didn’t go well... Instead of pulling it off and put it back – I’ve tried once to pull it, but something was holding it. I thought it is OK then. In reality in few days it started to go out more and more and that’s when I had all those issues
Basically after step 3 everything should be back to normal. Once you’ll plug the power you’ll have few errors related to the Pin 30 and to the wheel angle sensor. You have to drive a bit and it will go away, then you’ll have to clean the errors.
To code Trailer controller you have to choose it first from the list of controllers (go do 19 – Controller list). Then you code Engine, ABS, Ais Suspension, back up camera and parking sensors. That’s pretty much it. The coding is simple too, you’ll just add 1 to specific position indicating trailer.