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Scanned the car again yesterday after having constant popups on the dash. Having either a faulty battery regulator or an electrical fault in the system. The only thing I could think of is the excess summer heat making things go haywire.
Today on a cool day at 25 degrees Celsius I got no CEL, no ABS, no ESP, no Parking Brake and I drove the car hard just to try and make the problem present itself. I did however have my alarm go off mid drive for a few kilometers. It shut off by itself after a while.
Anyone have any other suggestions? The DTCs for the battery regulator, would that qualify as a faulty module?
Address 61: Battery Regul. Labels: 4E0-910-181.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4E0 910 181 B HW: 4E0 915 181
Component and/or Version: ENERGIEMANAGER H02 0240
Software Coding:
Well, I can tell you that the big key next to the 'a' on your key board controls the caps lock, press it once to deactivate it. From there, clear all the faults from the car, module by module if you have to, and then perform a new scan after a short drive.
Okay update. I left the car in auxillary power mode to see if my Battery Regulator will correctly measure the amount of charge left. It died, I recharged it and ever since the battery level has stayed at 1 bar, so around 10%?
I tried recoding the battery by changing the serial number by one digit, it did not accept it. I searched our forums for a Varta battery part number and serial number, and it wouldn't accept those either. I'm really fed up with this bull.
The original coding is:
Part Number: 000915105AK
Serial Number: 1234567890
Vendor: Varta
It WILL NOT accept any other line of code. When I copy the long strand of coding into the "New Coding" section it tells me the part number is wrong, and it needs to be in a 5-6, 00000-256545 format.
On top of that, the ABS and ESP issues are more rampant some days and non existent in others. Two days ago it was entire day of driving with no lights on, save for the TPMS warning. Yesterday it was aggressive; I could feel the brake pedal almost creak, as if the ABS engaged for a moment, and that's when the ESP light would turn on, followed shortly by the ABS light and Parking Brake malfunction.
the coding not being accepted is a software fault but it is nothing to worry about, the coding has been accepted. you can test this by changing the numbers buy 1 digit, saving, it will fail and then closing the connection to the module and going back in, and check the coding. it should have been accepted
the coding not being accepted is a software fault but it is nothing to worry about, the coding has been accepted. you can test this by changing the numbers buy 1 digit, saving, it will fail and then closing the connection to the module and going back in, and check the coding. it should have been accepted
There is no way for me to save the new coding. The only options after inputting the new code strand are "Do It" and "Cancel"
You can't "Do It" because it won't accept it, thus you can't save it. I checked my module many times and it won't accept it, it still stays at its original generic line of coding.
Moreover, the module itself won't let the battery charge. It still says 10%. Installing the older battery regulator module, I get a battery level of 0%.
At the moment I'm waiting for delivery on a new battery regulator. I will pick it up next week, and it will be three weeks in total before I can install the part.
There is no way for me to save the new coding. The only options after inputting the new code strand are "Do It" and "Cancel"
You can't "Do It" because it won't accept it, thus you can't save it. I checked my module many times and it won't accept it, it still stays at its original generic line of coding.
Moreover, the module itself won't let the battery charge. It still says 10%. Installing the older battery regulator module, I get a battery level of 0%.
At the moment I'm waiting for delivery on a new battery regulator. I will pick it up next week, and it will be three weeks in total before I can install the part.
Then you need to find the code that works. if youve changed the code then completely then for sure it wont work. but yes, the error when you select "do it" is normal, and as long as you change the last digit with the correct battery, it should save correctly and work.
i cannot give you my battery info because im going away for the weekend, but im sure someone on here can provide you with a battery name and $e0 code. but again, it will say that it didnt save or failed or whatever but chack it again once youve done it and it should save. the serial number must be relevant to the name of the battery, not some random numbers.
i also need to change my module i think. my battery says 100pc but the battery is almost dead and its a 200gbp 900A bosch battery. i dont know if you will have any problems with CP but i would assume because of the type of module, it should be okay.
can you provide the PN of the regulator so i can look too please
New battery regulator module installed. Issues persist. The battery is charged, but the module thinks it's at 10%. Now I'm getting error codes everywhere because the car thinks it has no electrical power supply when in reality it does. ABS, ETC and Parking Brake lights come on, giving me voltage too low, intermittent, or short to ground errors.
**An important note, the day I installed the module, the battery status went from %40 to 100% after a few km on my commute to university. On the way back, the issues slowly came back, with only the ETC light on. The next day, the drive was a short commute and a short stay at uni with no issues. Yesterday and today, the issues are completely back with ABS, ETC and Parking Brake warning lights on my dash, and a low battery/Energy Management prompt due to the battery "dropping" to 10%
Looking at the measuring blocks, under Battery Status II, the Amperes fluctuated a lot with a minimum value of -7A to a maximum value of +13A. The module stated that the battery status was at 10%, same as MMI, even though it acknowledges that when the engine is running and alternator is working, the battery voltage is at 13.7ish and the generator puts out 14.7V; when the engine is turned off, the battery voltage is at 12.80V, and Battery Status II shows a constant stream of -21A being discharged from the battery.
I read from another forum that the serial numbers coded into the modules tend to "expire" and the car will automatically think the battery is also expired? Anyone have any personal experience with this, or some further insight?
Thank you in advance.
Last edited by Automotive_Buff; 09-14-2018 at 01:43 PM.
Part numbers are interchangable with the Audi A6's module. The A6 module is reminiscent of the A8's that are ~2006 and up; smaller and have a circular half.
@MP4.2+6.0 I'm trying to find the location of the Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200) before I dive into the driver's side footwell. JIm Ellis Audi only has results for the impact sensors but not the one that links to the brake pedal. Is it in the same location, roughly, as the D2 A8? I want to check the wiring before I look at getting a new sensor. The battery is not an issue, the energy management control module is in working order, so all that's left to check is the connection.
EDIT
It's essentially, the ESP sensor, no? The diagrams are telling me that #35 in the diagram is the "Acceleration Sensor. Yaw Sensor" which I know are the G200 and G201 codes, respectively.
Last edited by Automotive_Buff; 10-18-2018 at 01:39 PM.
08-18-2018, 02:31 PM
