O2 sensor
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Newcomer
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 1
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O2 sensor
Hey Everyone,
I am currently not passing smog. Several mechanics all tell me to keep driving the car and keep rescanning to see if it's ready to be smogged yet. Well, it's been 6 months, and apparently it's still not ready. Thought I would take matters into my own hands. Your help is appreciated.
Check Engine light is on and keeps coming back on. I have 10/10 codes. Two of them are the O2 sensor (duplicate).
P2237 Generic
O2 Sensor Positive
Current Control
Circuit/Open Bank 1
Sensor 1
I'm looking for help on what this means. I've been told that if I do a tune up this might fix itself, I've been told I should replace all the sensors if I'm having problems like this, etc. What do you guys think? Found some videos, doesn't look too bad to DIY. Any documentation about this or resources?
Audi A8L 2006
Vance
I am currently not passing smog. Several mechanics all tell me to keep driving the car and keep rescanning to see if it's ready to be smogged yet. Well, it's been 6 months, and apparently it's still not ready. Thought I would take matters into my own hands. Your help is appreciated.
Check Engine light is on and keeps coming back on. I have 10/10 codes. Two of them are the O2 sensor (duplicate).
P2237 Generic
O2 Sensor Positive
Current Control
Circuit/Open Bank 1
Sensor 1
I'm looking for help on what this means. I've been told that if I do a tune up this might fix itself, I've been told I should replace all the sensors if I'm having problems like this, etc. What do you guys think? Found some videos, doesn't look too bad to DIY. Any documentation about this or resources?
Audi A8L 2006
Vance
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 4,370
Likes: 44
From: California
I think you probably have a bad O2 sensor. It's not an uncommon fault. However, that doesn't mean you have to replace all of them, just the one showing a fault is just fine. A tune up will not clear this up. If I recall, that is the driver's side sensor in forward of the catalytic converter, but there are a couple of experts who have dealt with this who will be able to go into detail if you need. Alternatively, search for old threads, I'm certain this has been covered before.
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 15,311
Likes: 696
From: SF Bay Area, CA
Hi.
Bank 1 is U.S. passenger side head, and sensor 1 is the main one before the cat. I'm assuming this is a 4.2; W12 would be more specifically the one farthest forward on that side. It says circuit open, so definitely something wrong. In turn either bad sensor or bad wiring. If you want you can unplug connector for it, maybe spray some contact cleaner on it and try reconnecting. Or just go straight to replacing it. If that does not fix, then issue may be with car side of connector and related terminals inside. W12's of same year have that issue, but 4.2's aren't really known for it.
It takes two cold hot cold engine cycles and some driving for most smog to reset once you clear a code triggering a check engine light. In turn called readiness codes, which you can also check. They start as "not ready" after a code clear. A few take a specific driving routine to reset to ready, but a simple single leisurely highway drive for about 20-30 minutes as part of the two full engine cycles (cold hot cold) usually checks the testing parameter details. You have to have no check engine light and readiness codes returned back to "ready" to pass in general, though some states are more lax on the readiness codes.
Bank 1 is U.S. passenger side head, and sensor 1 is the main one before the cat. I'm assuming this is a 4.2; W12 would be more specifically the one farthest forward on that side. It says circuit open, so definitely something wrong. In turn either bad sensor or bad wiring. If you want you can unplug connector for it, maybe spray some contact cleaner on it and try reconnecting. Or just go straight to replacing it. If that does not fix, then issue may be with car side of connector and related terminals inside. W12's of same year have that issue, but 4.2's aren't really known for it.
It takes two cold hot cold engine cycles and some driving for most smog to reset once you clear a code triggering a check engine light. In turn called readiness codes, which you can also check. They start as "not ready" after a code clear. A few take a specific driving routine to reset to ready, but a simple single leisurely highway drive for about 20-30 minutes as part of the two full engine cycles (cold hot cold) usually checks the testing parameter details. You have to have no check engine light and readiness codes returned back to "ready" to pass in general, though some states are more lax on the readiness codes.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; Oct 17, 2016 at 07:15 AM.
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