questions about improved ('08-up) trunk motor
09-18-2015, 08:08 AM
#21
09-18-2015, 08:33 AM
#22
AudiWorld Super User
09-21-2015, 04:46 PM
#23
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
the rest of the story....
I put a used '08 lift motor on a friends '06 A8 today, but it neeeds a slight upwards touch of the lid or it wont open. Question #1 : has anyone ever known of a failure with the re-designed motor ? I am thinking that's an unlikely failure.
So what could be preventing even the powerful improved motor from being able to open the trunk ? The struts on that car are weak...when closing, the lid gets to a point it just free falls and slams shut much faster than my A8. Question #2: good struts give a more controlled drop when closing, but do they also play a part in helping the motor lift the lid by supplying a bit of upward force ? Since the gas wants to extend them straight I would think they help the lift at some point as the struts get partially extended and more vertical, but when the struts are horizontal (as at the moment when the lid is unlatched) are they contributing to the lift ? When I put an '08 motor in my A8 I had fresh struts because I had changed them as an attempt (futile) to improve the performance of my original lift motor. Adnd in my case the revised motor solved all performanced issues at all temps.
However, I have a 2004 and the '04s had the spring loaded plungers on the edge of the lid that the '06s do not. And the performance of my lid opening is improved by leaving the plunger on the motor side retracted, and the pop from the plunger on the non-driven side helps the lid stay level as it starts to rise, reducing binding.
I oiled the hinges on the '06 and when manually moving the lid through its travel there doesnt seem to be any binding or stiffness from the hinges...which is easy to guage do to the lack of resistance from the struts.
So what could be preventing even the powerful improved motor from being able to open the trunk ? The struts on that car are weak...when closing, the lid gets to a point it just free falls and slams shut much faster than my A8. Question #2: good struts give a more controlled drop when closing, but do they also play a part in helping the motor lift the lid by supplying a bit of upward force ? Since the gas wants to extend them straight I would think they help the lift at some point as the struts get partially extended and more vertical, but when the struts are horizontal (as at the moment when the lid is unlatched) are they contributing to the lift ? When I put an '08 motor in my A8 I had fresh struts because I had changed them as an attempt (futile) to improve the performance of my original lift motor. Adnd in my case the revised motor solved all performanced issues at all temps.
However, I have a 2004 and the '04s had the spring loaded plungers on the edge of the lid that the '06s do not. And the performance of my lid opening is improved by leaving the plunger on the motor side retracted, and the pop from the plunger on the non-driven side helps the lid stay level as it starts to rise, reducing binding.
I oiled the hinges on the '06 and when manually moving the lid through its travel there doesnt seem to be any binding or stiffness from the hinges...which is easy to guage do to the lack of resistance from the struts.
I finally got a set of Stabilus struts (I had a big PITA getting them in at Advanced Auto, and during the ordeal I found a source , Lift Strut Depot, on eBay that has them for $20 less per pair with free shipping) and installed them in my friends car today. That solved the lift issue, and made the closing the controlled and quiet event it should be with a luxury car instead of a free-fall crash. And I am glad that I dont have to go the next step and swap out the '06 rubber stops with a pair of '04 stops with the sring-loaded plunger. And after establishing that the lid would lift as it should ,as an experiment, I removed the tow eye from the kit. And the lid moves faster (read: motor doesnt have to work as hard) , so it would seem like a good thing to do even if one has the upgraded motor.
07-01-2016, 12:25 PM
#24
I noticed this too. I saw one manufactured in 2010 with 205NM, and one manufactured in 2012 with 197NM. Which makes me wonder... could it be possible that newer cars had the boot lid lighter?
07-01-2016, 01:01 PM
#25
AudiWorld Super User
That number is the torque when the clutch start slipping. Small differences come from production imperfections, within tolerances off course.
07-02-2016, 12:08 AM
#26
Are you sure about that?
I guess that they are labeled individually then, after quality control and measurement... so in the end, if I buy the 2010 version, that doesn't guarantee me more strength (even if it has a bigger value) because it was more used than the one built in 2012 so it may have lost its strength...
I guess that they are labeled individually then, after quality control and measurement... so in the end, if I buy the 2010 version, that doesn't guarantee me more strength (even if it has a bigger value) because it was more used than the one built in 2012 so it may have lost its strength...
08-15-2016, 10:59 AM
#27
I have had the lingering slowness and lack of power in the trunk motor since I bought the car. Took out some of the tools, lubricated with white lithium grease all the time. And still, parked in the sun - worked 40% of the time.
Gave in - bought the H motor (had the "G" installed) and holy batman, the trunk flies up and down and works 100%. Yeah - $480 is not cheap, but if you are to have a feature like motorized trunk - THIS is how should have been from the factory!
Gave in - bought the H motor (had the "G" installed) and holy batman, the trunk flies up and down and works 100%. Yeah - $480 is not cheap, but if you are to have a feature like motorized trunk - THIS is how should have been from the factory!
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pelletman (07-13-2022)
08-15-2016, 02:08 PM
#29