Rear Pad Rapid Wear
05-13-2018, 06:12 AM
#1
2015 A8L TDI
Thread Starter
Rear Pad Rapid Wear
Hawk Pad thickness
Hawk Pad thickness
repalced rotor and pads a few months ago with Zimmerman rotors and OE pads.
Months Later I hear the right rear pad and rotor metal to metal contact
bought another set of rotors and Hawk pads.
Measured pad thickness for VCDS procedure.
SWapped parts, calibrated parking brake, will see how it goes.
Last edited by Dville; 05-13-2018 at 06:20 AM.
05-13-2018, 07:35 AM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
FWIW, if one side is wearing abnormally--which I think is what you are reporting?--suspect the caliper on that side. Obviously check the sliding metal to metal contact points as well as the floating pins and rubber grease seals where the caliper slides on the bracket. After that, suspect internals. About `10 years in, I had same thing on my 2000 C5 4.2 with essentially same rear calipers other than electric park brake. I do the regular brake fluid bleeding too. Replaced caliper w/ an EBay one, and no more issue. Have to also sort the electric brake unit as one more D3 variable.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 05-13-2018 at 07:37 AM.
05-13-2018, 07:43 AM
#3
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+1.
If the thin brake pad came from the inside,you problably have a stuck piston in the caliper.
Just did mine last week ,and it was realy stuck.
opened it up rebuild it with new o rings and all is fine now.
If the thin brake pad came from the inside,you problably have a stuck piston in the caliper.
Just did mine last week ,and it was realy stuck.
opened it up rebuild it with new o rings and all is fine now.
05-13-2018, 09:38 AM
#4
2015 A8L TDI
Thread Starter
It could have been a bad caliper, but I guess I will have to go through another pad and rotor to see.
I assumed it was caliper slide lubes this time so I did that and will wait to see if a caliper rebuild or replacement is necessary.
I assumed it was caliper slide lubes this time so I did that and will wait to see if a caliper rebuild or replacement is necessary.
05-13-2018, 12:10 PM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
You can actually tell by first drive or two and not potentially ruin another rotor or pad set. Simply drive to wherever on a normal highway drive. Along the way, pull off road. The slower the stop the better, including gear downshifting. Then get out and check out wheel area. If right rear rotor and wheel area is noticeably hot, especially relative to the opposite side, it is hanging up. The IR heat gun is the more scientific, but the shade tree approach probably works here too. If first noticed it on my A6 when I stopped for gas and realized the wheel area (right there by filler) was really hot and I could smell a bit of burning brake type stuff.
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