ltooz_a6_a8_q7

The pump is on the left and the smoke is coming from the right? How can it be the problem of rebuilding? The pump? Not likely.
Cheers,
Louis

Jack88

That's what I was figuring, but it didn't do it before, so logic dictates it is likely something I touched. Just seems strange. Maybe a rat nestled up in the exhaust I didn't know about, it has been parked a while. I'll look into it tomorrow and see what I turn up.

Shark_V8

Sounds like melting wire insulation too much current - that'll create some smoke for you.
Could be air flow blowing the smoke to a location other than source as well.

Jack88

The smoke was oil! It didn't think it really smelled like oil, but hey, my nose isn't great. I snugged the valve cover bolts one last time, since the oil was burning of the exhaust manifold and that's the only thing that can leak on that. If it still leaks, I will be redoing the job. :/

MP4.2+6.0

Yes, I was actually thinking it seemed more likely related to your prior cooler and other jobs. FWIW, for at least an hour post start when I do serious open the engine work I would get residual smell burn offs, and probably a day or two of driving to be all gone. Hopefully just some residual like that.

Jack88

Unfortunately, it's been 1000 miles since the major work! The oil cooler is below the manifold, so thankfully it wouldn't be that leaking! More annoying than the oil leak is the creaking noise I hear up front when I hit the brakes, most prominent in reverse. I lubed every component of the braking system thoroughly and it still makes a not at all subtle noise. I'm entirely baffled! I left the car in lift mode overnight, and it held every millimeter, so no sign of a leak. The pump rebuild will hopefully hold! It's worth noting that the desiccant I replaced was hard and felt brittle, I'm not sure it was able to absorb moisture anymore.

MP4.2+6.0

Yes, understood on cooler location, but greasy hands and such spread things out to manifold, headpipes and all. As you said, valve covers more likely. With the built in steel spacer bushings to the retaining screws though, they can't really be tightened to the max. Maybe check with a clean rag, wiping along the back edge of the passenger valve cover. The tensioner and such back there make the seal a bit more convoluted too.

I wouldn't think the front brake noises would be as loud as you describe for another thought, but have you replaced the front caliper bushings? The ones the caliper body slides on and that have the stainless steel mounting peg screwed through the center. Those get old, hard and worn over a lot of years. RockAuto has them for example for next to nothing (besides shipping). Ignore the 385mm part; the caliper is the same on all D3's and only the bracket varies. They come out and go in with just some needle nose plier and screwdriver type persuasion. They also have the guide pins from typical jobber suppliers for $5 a pair if yours have obvious wear. The guide pins on mine have always looked good.

Jack88

Good call, I'll look into that MP4.2. Would be easy enough to swap out. On a side note, when I replaced the compressor relay, the one I took out was dated 2008, so it had been replaced before. No idea why, the car appeared to have original struts and pump.

Jack88

Still having this problem with the suspension settings randomly greying out and then coming back. Does anyone know the conditions which the MMI would block out suspension settings that would lift it without triggering a yellow or green suspension light? I should also note, the up or down arrow on the MMI screen never illuminates either before or after this happens. I am truly stumped, here. I have rebuilt the compressor, it works quickly to raise the car, replaced the relay, and rebuilt a strut that developed a sudden and large leak, and it still has this issue....

MP4.2+6.0

Maybe a few back to basics ideas--bad electrical connections? Thus, try unplugging and reconnecting the connector from the suspension controller box--wherever that is... That assumes there is a distinct one?--though it never seems comes up in threads. (might need look at wiring diagram). Also, maybe do the same plug integrity check with the valve block, since that is more exposed even if behind the wheel liner. Try unplugging and then re inserting the 40A fuse for it that is near the relay.

When I lost two of my four menu choices (others grayed out) it was ultimately a blown fuse, which itself was very hard to see with the poor OE fuse design.

Also, any codes with VCDS in the level control area, regardless of whether or not you have various dash up down lights or MMI arrows?