SeanA8L757

I know understand and appreciate getting what you pay for however the ross-tech scanner is a little out of my price range I don't currently have the necessary funds and was hoping for some thing equivalent around $100, thanks in advance

Verybumpy

Perhaps OBDEleven would work for your needs? I'd check your vehicle(s) compatibility first.
https://obdeleven.com/en/content/8-supported-vehicles

MP4.2+6.0

You get what you pay for, but in theory OBDeleven, carista, or another step lower one of the endless OBDII very basic (engine only) readers.

Struggling to understand a bit the delta from $100 to $200 when one wrong parts call can be 4x the delta, let alone labor. Yes if want to cheap out at margin, then the app stuff like OBDeleven or carista. On those, be wary of the ongoing charges, subscriptions, add ons etc. Their "business model" that is not in your interest in those veins. The companies are also (way) offshore IIRC, so real world support from them is slim to none most likely. Ross-Tech is USA, though folks there are also fluent in German and VW/Audi set up and programming think AFAIK. I think the other two models are very much crowd sourcing basically. In that regard, I for one "speak" and deal with VCDS (Ross-Tech) type info at a detailed level or how they present info.; less interest in the others.

Free market though, so up to you. Just realize there is more to it than just up front price. Using my cable now a bunch of Audis (and a VW R), paid for itself literally dozens of times over.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

I do have all 3, VCDS, OBDEleven and Carista.
VCDS is the best for doing extensive programming but if you don't know how to use it, break more than help.
For normal people, who want to keep their car more reliable, the OBDEleven or Carista is efficient. They all can scan and report exactly the same codes as each other.
OBDEleven you pay once, Carista you pay monthly. Read my posts about these, in my signature.
http://www.dognmonkey.com/audi/thing...er-can-do.html
The problem for people who post the codes from other than VCDS, gurus here will disregard the question due to VCDS biased minds.
I like VCDS, but I hate the darn cable and laptop and new marketing pricing.
Cheers,
Louis

dvs_dave

MP4.2+6.0

Happy to be very direct so folks can weigh the factors. A lot of the hidden value of a tool is the surrounding community in my "mind." Folks often seem to miss that in their race to the "cheapest" price and oft app mindset. If you think that in turn is a "biased" mind, oh well. I'm a giver myself on forums 98%+ of time, so I can decide. Others can feel free to pick up the slack for the other products or generic code readers.

Thus, no I for one choose to shill for Carista or obdeleven--in part so they can run their offshore and app business models with the good graces of others' help while avoiding the cost structure. Part of what goes into a VCDS buy is really a lifetime license and some (very limited) $ to all them to keep building the now close to 20 calendar year experience base. Ditto on not shilling to translate app phone screens to VCDS presentation + style. On VCDS, posting a scan without doing any homework or even editing it is a good way to have the post go unanswered too. Post history of <5 often alongside. I speculate some are also mechanics getting paid for a job where they want to take the easy route and see if anyone bites. Unfortunately the new owner trying to get up to speed but lost in the chafe of endless leaking strut and similar posts can struggle, but search and read up are usual starting points..

As far as other points in thread now, if I was not looking for programming ("coding" in VCDS sort of speak), I would still want to read not just codes, but also look at measuring blocks and run various diagnostic tests in different modules. For example, things like click solenoids in motor mounts to be sure they are in order, spin up the smog/air injection (SAI) pumps, spin up cooling fans, and so on. Some others are sort of in between coding and diagnostics like changing the battery number for a new one, resetting the brake pad thickness on D3's, and triggering an adaptation of the throttle or the transmission. Those and many others I have personally used are in VCDS territory and documented. Not sure on the others but dubious on at least carista.

For OP, if nonetheless interested in the app ones, it may also come down to which phone/tablet OS you have.

bob_man

Search Amazon for XTOOL VAG401 Live Data OBD2 Auto Scanner for VW, Audi

I purchased this as a cheap ($55) alternative to a VAG-COM. It will read all your error codes and allow you to reset most of them, including the service interval/oil change indicator. It also allowed me to do some custom programming (such as using the driving lights instead of the headlights for DRLs) but you need the VCDS coding found online to walk you through the steps. To that end, the unit is not intuitive and the manual (which is a misnomer) is lousy. You can run an entire test of the car or troubleshoot systems one at a time. The unit also claims to reset the EPB for a rear brake change but I have not tried that yet.

My car only seems to throw an error message when I arrive at a destination far from home, usually on a long weekend. (Admit it, you've all been there...) It's small enough that I always leave the scanner in the car. This way, I can easily check and not torture myself all weekend wondering what - if anything - is really wrong.

MP4.2+6.0

An interesting and valid point, which may argue for an app. A possible acid test for me, which I have seen on the Mk 6 Golf R (2012-13). Mister Bally might have seen it too, on an Audi tt? Probably affects lots of four banger Audis, but maybe not the D3 (in the same way) that I can recall. On the Golf R if the throttle misreads it goes into a limp mode that limits you to barely 20 MPH and renders car almost undriveable. But likewise as a test and then heads up, some of the codes involved end up in the ABS module, and trigger the ESP malfunction light IIRC. Thus if the reader can't deal with and clear the ABS module, no joy and call the tow truck if not close to home. For me even 3 miles away was challenging with any grade or 35MPH type streets.

Worth looking into as these keep aging. Abstracting, the codes I have seen over the years that could essentially stop you via the limp protective modes even if you do not seem to be obvious broken down are in engine AND transmission AND ABS modules. ABS/ESP one can be really crippling from that experience. At least the tranny one gives you a mid gear that is good enough for getting along on highway. Other codes besides these don't usually even turn on an obvious light on dashboard. Only code I have ever had on D3/W12 I wish I could have cleared on road was a cooling system malfunction code that forced fans to full jet engine mode It was literally 0F, so heater didn't work so good while in winter Tahoe. Partially jammed thermostat so it would run somewhat cold in a scenario like that, but full force fans made it meaningfully worse. That one is in basic ECU, but probably a corner case.

Mister Bally

Had it on my '01 Beetle 1.8L Turbo. Basically 3000 max RPMs, half-power. Could get it to maybe 50 MPH on a flat road . This was partial limp-home mode. Had some pedal response. One time I experienced full limp, ≈1500 RPM. Basically useless. Got me back to the side of the road. Shut off and restarted and it went to partial mode so I got home. That's when I cleaned the throttle body encoder and it worked fine ever since (probably six or seven years now).