When you have a lemon make a lemonade :-)
12-10-2017, 04:53 PM
#21
AudiWorld Super User
Summing up from latest response for my thoughts on near term steps:
1. conclude on the cooling system work and resolve any possible remaining leaks.
2. get to bottom of whether there was any coolant mixed with trans fluid.
3. consider changing trans fluid.
4. Along way, also scan again looking for any codes that show up with more use, especially the engine and transmission.
After these steps, it may be back to the sort of lines Mister Bally mentioned early. That is, the next (big) step would likely be to remove the Mechatronics valve body and have the solenoids changed. Unless you are a really serious DIY'er, find a shop experienced in ZF transmissions who is willing to go inside it. From direct experience it may be the solenoids, or it may just really be the seal the holds that valve body to the transmission case. An advantage to doing a fluid change--ALONG with filter and gasket--is you can then visually inspect the bottom of the pan and the magnets in there to see if there are any meaningful metal or other chunks at bottom inside. If you find debris, not good as far as clutches and internals. If no debris, also good because it gives more confidence in going ahead with the solenoid and seal type work. Just as a caution and from having troubleshot mine to this level, it is possible that the issue ultimately is in the torque converter (or maybe elsewhere), though I think the odds are low. Also almost no history on this board in 10 plus years of many outright trans or torque converter failures--unlike the prior 5 speed ZF from the D2 that was really a lemon and weak spot. If you go this deep in the transmission, you would want a thorough fluid change, which ultimately takes at least two drain cycles to get to about 80-85% changed. Thus, a first pan drop and the first change is not a waste of time--it might help resolve (or reduce) present issue. First change will get you up o about 65% total fluid changed if pan is pulled; most of rest is stuck in torque converter at any given time that you cannot drain separately. Alternately that first change it will either end up being part of changing fluid at least twice if you have to go deeper as the next steps, or in the worst case scenario will tell you there is physical stuff in the pan that point to it failing.
The last paragraph here is a preview of where you might end up if it remains as a material issue for you, but first try the numbered steps.
1. conclude on the cooling system work and resolve any possible remaining leaks.
2. get to bottom of whether there was any coolant mixed with trans fluid.
3. consider changing trans fluid.
4. Along way, also scan again looking for any codes that show up with more use, especially the engine and transmission.
After these steps, it may be back to the sort of lines Mister Bally mentioned early. That is, the next (big) step would likely be to remove the Mechatronics valve body and have the solenoids changed. Unless you are a really serious DIY'er, find a shop experienced in ZF transmissions who is willing to go inside it. From direct experience it may be the solenoids, or it may just really be the seal the holds that valve body to the transmission case. An advantage to doing a fluid change--ALONG with filter and gasket--is you can then visually inspect the bottom of the pan and the magnets in there to see if there are any meaningful metal or other chunks at bottom inside. If you find debris, not good as far as clutches and internals. If no debris, also good because it gives more confidence in going ahead with the solenoid and seal type work. Just as a caution and from having troubleshot mine to this level, it is possible that the issue ultimately is in the torque converter (or maybe elsewhere), though I think the odds are low. Also almost no history on this board in 10 plus years of many outright trans or torque converter failures--unlike the prior 5 speed ZF from the D2 that was really a lemon and weak spot. If you go this deep in the transmission, you would want a thorough fluid change, which ultimately takes at least two drain cycles to get to about 80-85% changed. Thus, a first pan drop and the first change is not a waste of time--it might help resolve (or reduce) present issue. First change will get you up o about 65% total fluid changed if pan is pulled; most of rest is stuck in torque converter at any given time that you cannot drain separately. Alternately that first change it will either end up being part of changing fluid at least twice if you have to go deeper as the next steps, or in the worst case scenario will tell you there is physical stuff in the pan that point to it failing.
The last paragraph here is a preview of where you might end up if it remains as a material issue for you, but first try the numbered steps.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 12-10-2017 at 05:01 PM.
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