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2015 A8L 4.0T Oil Change - Recommendation

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Old 06-07-2017, 02:43 PM
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I am going to use an oil extractor as well. Both the 3.0 and 4.0 have dipstick tubes and dipsticks can be had 3rd party. One of the first things I purchased. 3.0 has the filter on top. Too bad Audi did not make a little "door" for the filter. This was nice on the Lexus. Just one screw held the flap closed.

Last edited by LexusLSguy; 06-07-2017 at 02:47 PM.
Old 06-07-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
I use an oil sucker to empty the crankcase and then just put in a fresh filter cartridge, fill it up to dipstick (O wait, no more dipsticks on Audis and MBs!) and go.
Not on a 4.0T you don't. What OP is working on. Filter underneath.
Old 08-13-2017, 09:52 AM
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Thanks everyone. I just finished my first oil change. Way too many different type bolts on the underbelly cover. But super easy process. Now I do wish the filter was on top of the engine like my other cars but it isn't.

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Old 08-13-2017, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryans
Thanks everyone. I just finished my first oil change. Way too many different type bolts on the underbelly cover. But super easy process. Now I do wish the filter was on top of the engine like my other cars but it isn't.
This is my first vehicle with an oil filter on top. Fantastic. Lexus was smart enough make "doors" for the filter in the cover and the back of the pan was not covered. I'm sure removing the cover is lots of fun. Between using an extractor and the 3.0 having the filer up top, best oil change experience ever! If you have to take the cover off easy enough to drain normally.
Old 08-13-2017, 08:32 PM
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FWIW, I wouldn't go too crazy on the extractor stuff and never getting underneath. I get it for the occasional one, short cycles some use, or in winter in tough working conditions. Helps to drain full pan of course. But more importantly: the best single diagnostic I know is to: 1. climb underneath, and 2. examine a belly pan that sits directly under most running parts and many fluid related systems. Say every 10,000 miles or once a year or so-- funny how the works math also works.

I have found many a small problem on many vehicles before it became a big problem or I might have broken down on the road. Also found a variety of things that warranty then fixed within 4/50 or CPO, instead of later on my nickel. CV joints, oil leaks, tranny leaks, P/S leaks (for models where still relevant), radiator issues, cooling hose issues, sway bar links and motor mounts are all examples.

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Old 08-14-2017, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
FWIW, I wouldn't go too crazy on the extractor stuff and never getting underneath. I get it for the occasional one, short cycles some use, or in winter in tough working conditions. Helps to drain full pan of course.
Is your belief that using an extractor doesn't get out about the same amount of oil then using the drain plug?
Old 08-14-2017, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Bryans
Is your belief that using an extractor doesn't get out about the same amount of oil then using the drain plug?
My belief is that an extractor will not remove much of any sediment type material that may sit at the bottom of a pan. Pulling a drain plug forces a flow that moves material along and out the plug hole. You would hope most of that stuff ends up in a filter, but that depends on yet other factors. Again, more importantly I think an extractor ends up meaning owners or others don't look under their cars much to see if anything is leaking or amiss, or on Audis and various others with belly pans examining them for leaks. Out of sight, out of mind...until the problem becomes more apparent later with risk of more damage and more $$. No free lunch here.

Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 08-14-2017 at 07:36 AM.
Old 09-18-2017, 11:47 AM
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Default oil filter removal

Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
I think it is IF you will use all of the routine services starting w/ 15K and especially the tune up at 35K. It pencils out if you add up the combo of parts for tune up, four filters and oil, a couple of HVAC filters, 2 x brake fluid flush, and extra labor on these--filter underneath and brace in way of air cleaner box. Invariably then also turns into my chance to give them the punch list of misc. warranty items under 4/50. Mine is literally at dealer now for both the 15K and the warranty list.

Again, be sure car wasn't already covered by a prior owner buying AudiCare. When I bought mine CPO I had dealer check for it. In various prior years it was sometimes bundled for a promotion, but on 2015's it often had to be owner purchased.

Can you tell me how to remove the oil filter from the canister (4.0T)? I cannot get it out by either twisting and pulling on it or just pulling straight up. I am stick with my car on jack stands until I can get the filter replaced - HELP!
Rich
Old 09-18-2017, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich Ditt
Can you tell me how to remove the oil filter from the canister (4.0T)? I cannot get it out by either twisting and pulling on it or just pulling straight up. I am stick with my car on jack stands until I can get the filter replaced - HELP!
Rich
Yank on it straight out. It is ultimately just a pressure fit. I just get in there with my hands and tug. Slip a produce or gallon zip lock bag over your hand, get it pulled off, then reverse bag w/ filter in it to minimize the inevitable mess. It's all plastic, so I would not be in there with a screwdriver or other stuff prying on it, just to preemptively try to avoid it getting out of hand.
Old 01-31-2020, 08:39 AM
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Default Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30

Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
9.2 on either A8 or S8 flavor of 4.0T. Was 8+ on my old C5 4.2, and then 13.1 on the D3 W12. The oil is a very important cooling medium on newer motors at high specific outputs--plus can help with longer intervals diluting contaminants.
I only use Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 Oils on VW-Audi FSI engines (its 504/507). Why? Because I don;t need any more ash and soot to clog up the intake ports over time. The CEUx engines are a lot better than the 1st gen FSIs in this regard. But, DI engineas are DI engines, it is a matter of how quickly not if carbon builds up in the intake. I do not favor 0W-40 because wider viscousity spread oils tend to be less stable over long drain intervals, besides a 30 viscosity grade equals very marginally better fuel economy. I do not believe in doing in between changes or shortening the factory recommended intervals.

VW-Audi cannot and will not deny Warranty just because you do not do DEALER oil changes using their dyed Castrol Oil. Never happens, will not happen and is not a legally viable position for them to take.


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