MP4.2+6.0

Posted on the rotors sort of endlessly now, so search. Patented design most likely, so no other suppliers. Size used with arguably higher volume SQ5 too, so it's not that is just some one off fitment. Design of rotor also probably answers why reluctant to turn. Somewhat floating on pins. Years ago friend with M6 where these first appeared was declined by an indy machine shop for turning them, saying they couldn't hold surface stable when tool was applied to it.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

I forget what the code was, GG or HH or some such..it can be googled. Textar is just a brand name, pads come in different mu.

MP4.2+6.0

What dealers are doing now on at least some. I personally wouldn't, in part since I want oil all the way out of bottom of pan where logically heavier stuff may lurk. But keep reading next paragraph for other insidious consequence you may not even realize for some years. Meantime in any case, look at where your oil filter is. Don't know on a 3.0T. On a 2.0T is on top, so makes it practical as a nominal labor saver to avoid pulling belly pan. On 4.0T, filter is completely underneath (as it was on my D3 W12), so then it doesn't compute for any short term labor savings.

Also falls into a pay me 1x now or 5x later bucket (can?) to me. That is, from 35 years wrenching experience on Audi's, first or second best diagnostic you can do is get under there periodically and give it a good look see for leaks and damage. (Other one is VCDS.) Oil extractor = laziness tool to avoid getting under there said most bluntly, but for a reason. What you don't see/want to avoid can then hurt you. Leak in a vehicle with hydraulic power steering can go from a $50 bill for loose clamp stuff, to hundreds for hose, to $2500 for pump if run dry of fluid and burns up in in as little as 15 minutes of further run time trying to get home or to repair shop. Or, leak found in radiator core for me on W12 cost me nothing but time to spot and bring it in for warranty full replace. It was a pinhole type that just would burn off with no drip. If pan were always in place and slight wetness never spotted, maybe two years later in 105 degree weather at side of road? Motor risk? And $500 ish parts cost and another $500+ to install? Said more at altitude, simply seeing presence of any leaked fluid either underneath or on pan surface is actually one of the greatest "free" diagnostic tools out there. Only cost is...time to remove it, which happens for any oil change done "old way" but not with out of sight out of mind extractor "shortcut."

Pay me 1x now via old school oil change or 5x later for the other missed stuff...

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Especially the ones with dipsticks!!
BMW easy...the oil filter cartridge is accessible from top.
Audi C5-4.2V8s, I use amsoil (fair disclosure lifetime amsoil dealer) changing 8-10K miles with full flow oil filter change every other oil change. Yeah, I hate getting under the car to snake out that big/long oil filter øn the C5 4.2.

LexusLSguy

I am getting ready to do my brakes before long. My rears are in the need more then the fronts but I am leaning towards doing them all at the same time. I would like to do the work myself. Is there a good tutorial out there for the D4? Everything seems pretty straightforward but its nice to have a good DIY for reference. I have been searching without any success. I do have VCDS.

cleex024

probably not much out there for this car since there arent too many out there to begin with and people on forums for something like the a8 is extremely rare. seems like only 5 guys on here for the a8/s8 lol. either way doing brakes are easy...if you have done it to any car before then its always the same essentially...only difference could be some clips or screws that hold the pads in place.

once you try it and take off the calipers everything will be pretty obvious.

LexusLSguy

That's true. One thing I do not have is the torque specs. Also, some of the coding is not clear to me yet in reference telling the computer the thickness of the new pads and if this needed for both for the front & rear. I think it is just the rear.

LexusLSguy

Update. Installed my Centric Posi-Quiet pads and rotors on the back. Front OEM are still in decent shape but I will probably put Centric pads on the front soon. Nice and smooth and quiet. They are great pads for typical daily driver. Looking forward to seeing how well the rotors last with these. Working on getting the dealer that CPO'd my car to now replace or refurbish my wheels. Happy I was able to cancel AudiCare Plus too. What a ripoff that would have been. Hopefully this will all work out for me. Little patience and persistence.