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Is it 5 years at the time of the warranty or original date of service?
EFG MAP offers many different mileage and time options. The time starts on the date you purchased the extended warranty. The miles add to your current mileage. Attached is a quote from 2017 on a low mileage 2014 S8.
Louis, here's another item to check if you or a friend are looking at used D4's. I bring it up specifically since I know we are both in the Bay Area.
If you end up CPO or used with only a limited warranty tail, look carefully at the history of the car, particularly where it was first sold. If it is a CA car--where both of us live--than all good. May be okay for some other "CARB" states, but likewise it may be a lot worse if it comes from South, Midwest, mountain states, or even NV or AZ. It can get complicated, but basically if the car starts as a CA one, you get a decent 7 year emissions warranty--and with no question if you are likewise in CA as the current owner. Importantly, on a 4.0T it picks up the turbos among other things. If it is a 3.0T, it correspondingly picks up the supercharger. Thus it sort of backs you into a poor man's version of a partial drivetrain warranty on the more modern high stress components, for no extra $$. It has already saved at least a few on the board an $8-10K dealer repair bill where they didn't otherwise have a regular warranty.
Not good business by Audi in my book where it is leading to second class citizens somewhat randomly among current owners and their specific car history, but might as well know "the rules" going in.
Hello MP4.2,
Yes the car is originally from CA, and we're going down to LA for it. We don't need the extra power and the turbos so we stick with the lower version of A8L 3.0T with all important options. Most of my Audi's are from SC, both new cars were from Audi of West Covina. Since this is a used one, from different Audi dealer.
We do like the facelift, so we'll pay more to get it although 2016 is also nice.
If the car has CPO for 3 remaining years, should we buy extra? I know the D3 is reliable but not sure about the D4, it should be much better than D3, then I don't really need the extra warranty. Since your car was almost new when you bought it, anything failed since? I know you keep and drive your car well although it's "S" and not normal. For some reasons, the swb we test drive seems to be tighter in both width and or course length compared to the L... our imagination?
Cheers,
Louis
Both of us coming from D3's, we have some of the same experiences! I can confirm your comments about the SWB car feeling lighter and a bit smaller (although I know it isn't any narrower) than the LWB version. We drove both before deciding that the SWB model really fit our needs better, and felt a lot more maneuverable. We've had the '13 3.0TFSI for about 9 months, and my wife (she is the primary driver) absolutely loves this car -even more than the '07 D3. We are both well past retirement age, and rarely have anyone in the rear seat. No need for a small soccer field there in the back between the front and rear seats!!
Thanks Gary,
I read, the 3.0T is supposedly the best engine since it's supercharged instead of Turbos.
Any gremlins in the D4 that I should be concerned about? Actually the car has less than 13k miles, practically new in SoC all its life, never seen snow I bet.
Cheers,
Louis
Hello MP4.2,
Yes the car is originally from CA, and we're going down to LA for it. We don't need the extra power and the turbos so we stick with the lower version of A8L 3.0T with all important options. Most of my Audi's are from SC, both new cars were from Audi of West Covina. Since this is a used one, from different Audi dealer.
We do like the facelift, so we'll pay more to get it although 2016 is also nice.
If the car has CPO for 3 remaining years, should we buy extra? I know the D3 is reliable but not sure about the D4, it should be much better than D3, then I don't really need the extra warranty. Since your car was almost new when you bought it, anything failed since? I know you keep and drive your car well although it's "S" and not normal. For some reasons, the swb we test drive seems to be tighter in both width and or course length compared to the L... our imagination?
Cheers,
Louis
Louis, approach makes sense. Facelift makes sense if you can swing the price delta. On warranty, given your abilities I would not be too concerned--if between regular 4/50 Audi warranty and a CPO you get out there several years. That was my D4 S8 CPO scenario, with another year to go. More so since you say 3.0T. Higher miles on 4.0T may be more dicey unless/until Audi steps up to deal with the issues affecting turbos there. Older 4.2 is final refined normally aspirated version, but essentially 3.0T is its equal in newer model years and probably better fuel economy.
SWB/LWB: I drove the two several years apart. As always, the LWB is quite a stretch. Great for back seat use. Hassle for Bay Area parking and such here and there. Difficult in parking garages too. LWB I drove for a week was a 2012 4.2. Relative to my D3 W12 it was not so clear it was a meaningful change. Newer electronics and all, but drivetrain not as smooth or torquey as W12---both motor and tranny. S level overcomes that and post facelift some loose ends were ironed out.
Issues I have seen generally minor. I do expect long term air ride will bubble up again, though as second gen system hopefully less so. Seems like that so far. Sway bar links pretty obviously a weak spot. Different than D3 design for those and now like other contemporaneous Audis, but now even easier to change so no big deal to me. Expect longest term things like screen motor, upper control arms etc. may still rear up. Again second generation, but fundamentally same design as D3.
If you are thinking 3.0T, don't dismiss TDI. Not a lot around, and I think you have to go LWB. Prices seem to be pretty variable. Same general power sense as 3.0T in general, fabulous mileage for a big car, and now some further warranty backstopping by Audi from the TDI settlement.
Thanks for the info MP4.2, I'm not sure if average $9k difference is worth it for the facelift, but it could be the last of the D4 and we're willing to pay for it. I hate fixing car now, even making appointment to take the car for service regardless if it's under warranty or not. I enjoy driving as much as I can. There's also a car that's really nice, but has tinted windows and the dealer will only remove if we'd bought the car. I hate the feelings of someone taking the door panels apart to remove the tint and the back window with all the defroster electrical lines. They promise that they use steam to remove without water from the inside and no door panels need to be removed. What about the heat from the steam? I know everyone preference is different, but I just don't see $900 tint on a $90k car, what are they thinking? I was young and tinted all my windows, but they're cheap cars and I know how hard it is to remove them and it doesn't matter how good the tint is, it will bubble or scratch. Any experience on tint removing is greatly appreciated.
Also tint has come a long way in the past few years, especially ceramic tints/films. They can help a lot with heat load inside the car, and not all bubble.... being in Florida you are glad of window tint at times I assure you. I get that it's a personal taste thing too, but are you going to let $900 worth or tint keep you from the car you want?
03-24-2019, 07:26 PM
