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Coolant Leak Through Wiring Harness

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Old 12-29-2014, 11:52 AM
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Thanks, so the plot thickens, in elsawin it gives a picture and a description but doesn't indicate where they are, the other strange thing is that it gives the same picture for each valve. Does anyone have an indication where to look as I think I will have to borrow a lift and do it myself.
Old 12-29-2014, 01:46 PM
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You need to remove the front 'belly pan' and it should be on the lower part of the back of the radiator from what I can tell.
But... I only have the gasoline manuals...
Old 12-30-2014, 09:24 AM
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Thanks again, well I've managed to find the 2 valves that do not exist! They are behind the intercooler / in front of the wheel arch cover on the left side of the car, as you say you need to remove the belly pan first.

Both plugs disconnected to check and fortunately no coolant in the plugs, it does amaze me that they said it didn't have them especially as I know they had the belly pan off, the "technician" like a lot I have seen seemed to have an allergy to installing it correctly.
Old 12-30-2014, 06:19 PM
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Default Coolant in the Wiring Harness. as well...

Originally Posted by Kkirkg
I have a 2011 A8 with 35k miles. Last week the check engine light came on the the car shut down. I had it towed to my dealer and the diagnosis was that a coolant valve had failed causing the coolant to leach through(inside the wire itself)the wiring and shorted out the ECU. A friend who had an independent repair shop told me this was a 'known issue' as the coolant valve was prone to failing.

Has anyone ever heard of this happening before?
Just happened to me and my A8 was returned this morning. I was 3 weeks out of warranty but my SA and dealer are always going above and beyond [Herb Chambers Audi, Burlington MA, I cannot praise them enough!]. They requested a one-time goodwill customer satisfaction allowance from the regional Audi rep to cover this under warranty. Happy beyond words...

My EPC warning light and Engine Light were on. The issue was found to be coolant in the same wiring harness. The repair order follows:

MIL on. Found faults for the transmission fluid cooler valves circuit open. Found the TSB # 2033806/6 for this issue. Removed the connector at the transmission fluid cooler valve and found coolant damage at the terminals. Followed the TSB and searched for other signs of damage ion electrical connectors, found the engine control module to have coolant ingress damage. Also several terminals were damaged at the connector T90. Also found the cowl panel was deformed from the engine control module heating up from the short inside of the module. Coded, adapted and cleared all faults. Repaired the 4 damaged terminals at the T90 connector to the ECM. Performed a harness overlay for the transmission fluid cooler valve. Reinstalled all components and replaced the deformed cowl panel. Test drove. Complete.

4HO-907-560-C Control Unit
4HO-121-670-A Valve
assorted wires, tie wrap, connector, wire harness

I cannot provide information as to cost nor labor hours since this was written up as N/C. I hope this may help anyone else in the future as this seems to be a common problem. Oh, btw only 24k miles on the 2011 as I'm mostly on one of my Harley's as weather permits here in the Frozen Tundra of New England...
Old 12-30-2014, 06:42 PM
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Good to have a TSB number for us all to refer to.
Old 12-31-2014, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by synchrocnc
Thanks again, well I've managed to find the 2 valves that do not exist! They are behind the intercooler / in front of the wheel arch cover on the left side of the car, as you say you need to remove the belly pan first.

Both plugs disconnected to check and fortunately no coolant in the plugs, it does amaze me that they said it didn't have them especially as I know they had the belly pan off, the "technician" like a lot I have seen seemed to have an allergy to installing it correctly.
Well done! Did you happen to take any pictures, I think it would be very helpful? And agreed on how they ALWAYS don't install the belly pan correctly.
Old 12-31-2014, 04:31 AM
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Thank you for the information doctorharrison.
Glad to hear they went above and beyond.
Old 12-31-2014, 04:43 AM
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Dr. H, I do believe your SA and the Service Manager each deserve a bottle of champagne (Veuve Clicquot,at the very least) to help ring in the New Year. 😉. Glad to hear your dealer came through for you on this---does make for a positive end to 2014.
Old 12-31-2014, 09:54 AM
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I would have to agree on buying them a drink, this is how it should be. I guess you could have argued that the coolant would have been seeping for some time. Good for them though, they have kept a customer.
Old 11-15-2015, 10:29 AM
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This issue is sort of bugging me and I've tried to get the Audi guys where I live to change the valves just to be sure, they act as they do not know what I am talking about and simply don't respond in a way that makes me want to leave my car with them for this.

Still don't want to get stuck on the highway and was thinking if there was a simple way (quick diy) to keep the wiring harness and ECU healthy even if the valves started to leak.

An idea would be to simply fit a short cable extension, that should potentially keep the original connector and cable healthy assuming coolant won't pass through the second connector.

Anyone know if that might work and how to get the right cable extension?


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