dell

Twice blew steam & emptied the coolant bottle only. Car stopped immediately.
1) I changed coolant sensors (2) on l&R rear side of metal coolant pipes.
2) Changed Fan sensor in Radiator.
Prior to this temp gage read zero, nada. Now it reads at normal level. I still think it's running hot, here's why:
1) After driving upwards of 25 miles I checked the lower rad hose temp (by hand) and it was very warm. The upper hose to the bottle was untouchable (very hot). I ran the heater while driving and the air at the vents is nearly untouchable (very hot). No water in oil. No oil in coolant (best as I can tell.

Next is , compression check, thermostat & H2o pump.

Anything else? Suggestion?

Seattle Scott

Old coolant will ventually get so old it won't depress the boiling point any more.

Can't you read the coolant temp via the climate control to double check the guage?

The temps of your coolant hoses doesn't seem that bad, I'd venture that's pretty close to normal.

When you replaced sensors, etc., did you loose a lot of fluid? Did you bleed the air out of the system using the bleeder screws?

dell

I had a major rebuild at 122K (11K ago) I'll double check but the pump & therm owere changed, as well as new coolant.

Can't you read the coolant temp via the climate control to double check the guage? (How do I change this font bold, ital etc)?

You mean to use a thermometer in the coolant manually put in at the overflow tank? or do you mean air temp coming from the ducts inside the car?

I lost very little fluid from the L& R sensors but maybe a 1/2 pint or less while switching the lower radiator sensor.

I did not use the bleed screw. Maybe you are right here. wouldn't the air eventually escape? Or is it like my hot water pipes (closed System) in my heating system of my home.

Thanks for your help Seattle. Boeing is a customer if you are from Wash? I work at Pratt & Whitney Aircraft in Connecticut.

imaudi5

THe bleeder is Located by the egr valve on the rear of the engine block dr/side. I tried to let the engine warm then cool so the air bubble would get out and refilled the coolant resevoir. I did that repeatedly till the coolant would not drain then it blew all the coolant out of the resevoir after driving 5 mins later. THe car was running hot. It worried me because I was doing and waterpump replacement and T belt. I Finally found the bleeder screw and it resolved the prob. There was too much air in the radiator and motor.

imaudi5

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/2033.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/2033.phtml</a</li></ul>

dell

I'll give it a try. Pictures really helped. Thanks, J. Cassidy - Connecticut

Seattle Scott

You do have a digital climate control don't you??

<a href="http://www.12v.org/maint/cc.html" target="_top">Reading Climate Control</a>

I didn't mean to check the hose temp with a thermometer, just that your hand test on the radiators hoses had reasonable results, i.e. the radiator is working about right. Try another vehicle and I think the hoses will feel about the same.

If there was a big air pocket "bleeding out" your expansion tank would empty out.

I don't know any propulsion guys. Well, I do but they would tell me I violated a non disclosure agreement if I said I knew them. ;-)

Ever hear of the "Fiber Optics In Service Program".