IF YOU ARE OVER HEATING EVEN A LITTLE OR NOT AT ALL,AND YOUR COOLANT IS DIRTY,READ ON.

I HAVE HAD A COOLING PROBLEM WITH MY 1993 AUDI 100 V6 12V. THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE NEEDLE WOULD BE AT AROUND 1 O'CLOCK. THAT IS TOO MUCH HEAT FOR THE ENGINE.YOU PROBABLY NOTICE MORE SEEPAGE OF OIL AS A RESULT OF THE HEAT. I HAD ALSO DONE MY WATER PUMP,THERMOSTAT,EXPANSION TANK CAP AND ALL OTHER COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS.BUT THE OWNERS BEFORE HADNT REPLACED THE COOLANT IN OVER 2.5 YEARS.IF THERE ARE NO LEAKS IN THE COOLING SYSTEM WHAT SO EVER IT IS MOST LIKELY THE RESULT OF A POORLY MAINTAINED COOLING SYSTEM.EVERY YEAR THE COOLANT SHOULD BE FLUSHED OUT AND REPLACED WITH AUDI SPECIFIED COOLANT!! AFTER TOO LONG THE COOLANT BREAKS DOWN AND COORODES SEALS,ALUMINUM(HEADS)NOT TO MEANTION THE HEAD GASGETS,
BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY, ALL THIS BROKEN DOWN COOLANT TOGETHER WITH PARTICALS OF COORODED ALUMINUM AND WHAT NOT CLOGG THE RADIATOR. WHEN THE COOLANT IS INSULATED BY GUNK FROM THE RADIAITOR VAINS IT DRAMATICALLY LOOSES ITS COOLING PROPERTIES!!THE RESULT IS INADEQUATELY COOLED COOLANT, THE THERMOSTAT IS NO LONGER IN CONTROL OF THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE OF THE WHOLE SYSTEM. WITHOUT THE RADIATOR THE ENGINE IS NOW AT THE MERCY OF THE SLIGHTEST CONDITIONS.
IF YOU HAVE OVERHEATING PROBLEMS AND YOU KNOW THERE ARE NO LEAKS AND THE FANS OPERATE,TRY A COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH AGENT NOT TO ACTUALLY CLEAN OUT THE SYSTEM BUT TO CHECK FOR CONTAMINATION. JUST UP TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE AND SHUT OFF,NO MORE THAN THAT!
NOW DRAIN THE ENTIRE SYSTEM INTO A CONTAINER AND INSPECT THE SOLUTION.IF IT IS DIRTY YOU NEED TO CLEAN THE RADIATOR. YOU DONT NESSESSARILY HAVE TO REPLACE IT.DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY ON THE RADIATOR CLEANING AGENTS, JUST TAKE OUT THE RADIATOR AND BRING IT TO A SHOP WHERE THEY TAKE IT APART AND PHYSICALLY CLEAN EACH VAIN. REMEBER TELL THEM NOT TO PAINT THE RADIATOR AND ASK HOW CLOGGED IT WAS. THEY USUALLY TELL YOU 0%-90% CLOGGED,IF HIRE THEY TELL YOU TO REPLACE IT. IT COST ME ONLY $40!!!!!AS APPOSED TO SPENDING $260 ON A NEW ONE. AFTER THAT THE CAR RAN PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!!IT IS CONTANTLY AT THE FIRST BOLD LINE,ABOUT 11 OCLOCK. WITH THE OIL WHERE IS IS SUPPOSED TO,-NORMAL CITY DRIVING 80C, AND HIGHWAY ABOUT 100C-PERFECT! THE OIL DOESNT GET TOO THIN, WITH NO LEAKS OR SEEPAGE.
WITH THE RADIATOR COOLING THE WAY IT IS DESIGNED, NOW THE THERMOSTAT IS DOING THE TEMPERATURE CONTROLING. IF THE RADIATOR IS "OVER COOLING",NO PROBLEM, THE THERMOSTAT IS THERE TO SLOW OR SPEED THE COOLANT CIRCULATION TO KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AT THE RIGHT POINT.
WITH OVERHEATING EVEN A LITTLE TOO MUCH ALL THE TIME RESULTS IN FAILURE OF JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING:
HEAD GASTGETS THAT GO OVER THEIR DESIGNED TEMPERATURE RANGE BREAK DOWN THE MATERIAL THEY ARE MADE OF AND FALL APART TO THE POINT OF HEAD GASKET LEAK. OIL SEALS HAVE A SORT OF METAL RUBBERBAND IN THEM TO KEEP CONTACT ON THE SHAFTS. WITH EXCESS HEAT+TIME THEY BECOME BRITTLE AND LOOSE THERE TENSION PROPERTIES, WHICH MAKES UP THERE JOBS TO SEAL THE OIL IN. TOGETHER WITH THE THINNING VISCOSITY OF THE OIL.THE BEARINGS AND MOVING PARTS ARE NOT LUBRICATED THE WAY THEY ARE DESIGNED TO.
THE METALS OF CYLINDER WALLS AND EVERYTHING ELSE LOOSE THEIR METALERGY PROPERTIES.

THE RESULT OF THIS LEADS TO COMPONENTS FAILING,BREAK DOWNS,AND ACCELERATED ENGINE WEAR!!

NOW, THAT IS JUST THE HEAT PROBLEMS, NOW COOLANT NOT ONLY SERVES AS AN IDEAL COOLING AGENT,BUT ALSO CONTAINS ANTI CORROSIVE PROPERTIES,SILICONE,ECT.... OK SO AFTER TOO LONG THIS BREAKS DOWN ITS ABILITY TO PROTECT AGAINST CORROSION!! THAT IS NAMELY WHY WE MUST REPLACE IT EVERY YEAR OR SO.

THE DAMAGE THIS CAUSES MOST IS THE METALS IN THE COOLING PASSAGES,ESPECIALLY ALUMINUM. AT THE HEAD IT CAN EAT AWAY AT THE MATING SURFACES OF THE HEAD AND THE GASGET,CREATING LEAKS OF PRESURIZED COOLANT INTO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, AND EVEN WORSE, INTO THE OIL!
THEN IN TURN YOU GET CONTAMINATED OIL. WHEN THE OIL AND WATER MIX ITS LIKE HAVING NO OIL. ITS LIKE LOOSING YOUR LUBRICATION SYSTEM!!!
OLD BROKEN DOWN COOLANT ALSO RUINS GASKETS AND O RINGS AND SEALS IN THE WHOLE COOLING SYSTEM.

NOW ALL AUDI OWNERS I URGE YOU TO SERVICE THE COOLING SYSTEM WHEN ITS SUPPOSED TO. AND ANYTHING TO DO WITH VITALLY COOLING THE ENGINE, GET FROM THE DEALER! OR GET HIGH QUALITY GERMAN PARTS.

DO NOT USE PEP BOYS OR AUTOZONE CHEAP **** COOLANT! AUDI HAS SPECIFIC CORROSIVE PROTECTION QUALITIES THAT ARE COMPATABLE WITH THE MATERIALS THEY USE IN EVERY COMPONENT IN THEIR COOLING SYSTEMS; THEIR ALUMINUM,GASKETS, RUBBER O RINGS, THE HEAD GASKET,ECT...THEIR COMPONENTS ARE ROCK SOLID,BUT WHEN SUBJECTED TO COOLANT NOT DESIGNED FOR THEIR SPECS IT CAN DAMAGE!

DONT PINCH PENNIES ON CRAPPY THERMOSTATS, THERMOSWITCHES,WATER PUMPS,COOLANT, OR OTHER IMPORTANT COMPONENTS.

HERE IS WHERE YOU DEFFINATELY GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.

SO, WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM PROPERLY MAINTAINED,THAT AUDI WILL LAST FOREVER!!

ANY QUESTIONS AND ID BE HAPPY TO GIVE YOU INPUT AND SUGGESTIONS!

OH AND P.S. ON THE 100 THE RADIATOR IS EASY TO REMOVE. NO NEED TO TAKE IT IN A SHOP

 

could you please give easy steps how to flush coolant for 1997 Audi A6Q with 2.8 AFC series engine and where can you buy Audi coolant and what is the price THANK YOU FOR YOUR INFORMATION FOR AUDI OWNER

 

sure,right now i dont have my all data for ur model, but you can buy coolant from the dealer,recomended, or here

www.europeanautomotive.com

at your local library you can get the all data service cd for your car on their computers if you want very useful and detailed info/instructions,for working on your car. very very useful.

but ya all you have to do to run agents through the cooling system is drain all the coolant throught the radiator and block, open bleeder screws,pour cleaning agent(any prestone products) in and then add water for the rest until it seeps out of bleeder screws,close bleeder screws,then fill until reaches the expansion tank max line. cap, run until warmed up and maybe a few minutes more,then let it cool,drain,inspect.

repeat with water,inspect,ect...

 

You can buy the red antifreeze for 96-98 C4 A6s at VW and save $ over Audi dealer.

 

you can buy a bunch of concentrate audi coolant on this site, its only $7.50 a liter!!thats pretty good. and after a certain amount you get free ups ground shipping. and ya you can also try VW

 

Good info but very hard to read your post...because you're YELLING!!!!!!!!

Hmm, I just ordered a new radiator, last time I took a used radiator to get it cleaned it was $100+, you must have a better small shop.

*my rad showed signs of a small leak though, so I figured a new one at 206K wasn't a bad idea.

Oh, and the amount of crap stuck in my radiator was amazing, like animal fur coming off it with compressed air. I imagine that was most of my temp guage going up's problem.


Ross

 

I paid $19 for a gallon at VW (3.6L). The other route is more pricey.