BUYING A 92 100 WITH 180,000 Miles
#1
BUYING A 92 100 WITH 180,000 Miles
Is it a good idea to buy to buy a 1992 Audi 100 with 180000 Miles? It was a one owner car, and most of the mileage wa son the highway
Please let me know
Thanks
Please let me know
Thanks
#5
See the great article - click on URL inside this post.....
<ul><li><a href="htp://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/973.phtml">htp://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/973.phtml</a</li></ul>
#6
Re: BUYING A 92 100 WITH 180,000 Miles
Of course the prior maintenance will make a difference, but these are pretty well-built cars. I do oil changes on time and pay attention to my car, but I don't baby it.
I'm currently driving a 92 cs with 255,000 miles on it and no major issues. In the 180 - 200,000 range I replaced the fuel pump, driver's side drive shaft and wheel bearing, front struts and one tie-rod end. Between then and now I've replaced the serpentine belt.
If a mechanic's check doesn't indicate problems, you probably won't have too much to worry about.
PS: If it is in good shape, the price you paid is a steal.
I'm currently driving a 92 cs with 255,000 miles on it and no major issues. In the 180 - 200,000 range I replaced the fuel pump, driver's side drive shaft and wheel bearing, front struts and one tie-rod end. Between then and now I've replaced the serpentine belt.
If a mechanic's check doesn't indicate problems, you probably won't have too much to worry about.
PS: If it is in good shape, the price you paid is a steal.
#7
HELP! Tie rods in bad condition.....
... the car shakes really bad over sixty and i lifted the car, and the wheel is kinda loose, does anybody know how much will the inner tie rod goes for?, please help let meknow if there is somethng else i should look for to stop the shakes.
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#9
Re: BUYING A 92 100 WITH 180,000 Miles
All front end parts are readily available and can be installed by any shop, usually at relatively (to German car repair standards) low cost. I've had good results having front suspension work done at the local Les Schwab. Perfect work and lots less expensive than the German car shops.
Example: On the last trip to a specialty shop they told me the strut bearings were bad, the wheel bearings were bad, both outer CVs needed replacement, and both tie-rod ends needed replacement. I didn't buy this, due to recently having replaced both the driver's side bearing and drive shaft. They probably just looked at the odometer, and how good the condition of the car was overall, and decided I'd fall for it.
LS checked it all out and replaced one tie-rod end for a grand total of $93.00. There was no need, or charge, for anything else.
Example: On the last trip to a specialty shop they told me the strut bearings were bad, the wheel bearings were bad, both outer CVs needed replacement, and both tie-rod ends needed replacement. I didn't buy this, due to recently having replaced both the driver's side bearing and drive shaft. They probably just looked at the odometer, and how good the condition of the car was overall, and decided I'd fall for it.
LS checked it all out and replaced one tie-rod end for a grand total of $93.00. There was no need, or charge, for anything else.
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