Need help ASAP please how to isolate dead short

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Old 03-30-2003, 07:01 AM
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Default Need help ASAP please how to isolate dead short

92 100 CS.

Drove to resturant and went to start after eating. Cranked slow a few times and then nothing. Tried to jump from other car. Without key or or turning to start, it was drawing lots of current. Thought it might be shorted out battery. Absolutely nothing when turning key to start with jump.

Couldn't raise window, interior light down to nothing. Something is dead shorted, so i had to be towed home. After taking battery out of equation, I figured it was the ignition switch. I replaced it once before and still sticking sometimes.

I took dash, etc apart. Sticking turned out to be kinked cable to transmission where it won't let you start if you are in gear. So ignition has nothing to do with short. (well, at least i solved one problem)

Getting back to dead short: jumping good battery to batter cables (my battery is now out of circuit), it draws big current without anything turned on. Ignition is completely disconnected, so are dash and column switches. Got to be something else. Maybe starter? How do I isolate the starter circuit easily? Plug somewhere? cable?

Need to find out what is wrong today so I can fix or get parts tomorrow. Have wife's car tomorrow, but definitely need to be up and running Tuesday.

Help please.

Jimbo
Old 03-30-2003, 09:03 AM
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Default You can start by pulling fuses and checking the draw. This can in turn cause a problem with false

codes stored. My thinking is if you had a dead short somewhere you'd blow fuses. Unplug high amp fuses and then check the draw.
Old 03-30-2003, 10:38 AM
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Default Power window fuse, but how, with ignition unplugged?

Thanks for getting me on the right track.

taking the fused out one by one led me to the electric window fuse A1. There are two for elect windows A1 and A3. A3 is also for sunroof. These circuits shouldn't be drawing current with the ignition off.

ok, so i plug the ignition back in and stick the fuse it. windows work. some were a little slow. with fuse in and no window buttons pushed, it's still drawing current.

I must have a short in a hot wire for the windows. That's going to be fun to find. Anyone ever have this problem before? In the 5Ks, the wires leading from the post to the door often shorted out or broke. Is that common on these cars too?
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