The dreaded blue smoke
#1
The dreaded blue smoke
Ok...I admit the car is 18 yrs old...but so suddenly...
The last time I changed my oil, I used one of those engine flush things to clen the motor. I put in Castrol High mileage oil 10W-30, and fixed **all** the leaks...at least the major one. Now it seems that I'm losing more oil than I did when it leaked all over!! It's like a quart every two weeks!! I am pushing some out the rear...I can see it at stop signs, etc. But a quart every other week...This problem seeminly appeared overnight. Any thoughts...Did I do something to the valve seals with the motor flush, or knock some crud loose?? Any thoughts, and suggestions would be helpful. The motor flush waas the stuff you add before the change, run for 5 min and drain.
The last time I changed my oil, I used one of those engine flush things to clen the motor. I put in Castrol High mileage oil 10W-30, and fixed **all** the leaks...at least the major one. Now it seems that I'm losing more oil than I did when it leaked all over!! It's like a quart every two weeks!! I am pushing some out the rear...I can see it at stop signs, etc. But a quart every other week...This problem seeminly appeared overnight. Any thoughts...Did I do something to the valve seals with the motor flush, or knock some crud loose?? Any thoughts, and suggestions would be helpful. The motor flush waas the stuff you add before the change, run for 5 min and drain.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Re: The dreaded blue smoke
My 4cyl burns oil when the engine gets hot, and I can smell it. Valve guides Im guessing are bad, when money permits (in about 3 years), Im gonna take the head off, recondition it, and put it back on, with all new parts. Ive never used any engine flushing stuff in any engine Ive owned.
Not sure if I was much help
Mike
Not sure if I was much help
Mike
#4
old cars and oil...
before I had my 4KQ, I had a series of 2002s. now there was a car that put out blue smoke. I used to run 20/50 in the summer and 10/40 in the winter to "keep" the oil consumption to a quart per 800-1000 miles. You may want to go to a 10/40 weight (it has a thicker viscosity at higher temps than 10/30). Also a good check for bad valve seals vs rings is to wind the car out in 2nd gear and lift off. If the car smokes on decelleration its due to pulling oil through the valve seals. other wise look for leaking seals, check compression and for oil in the coolant or foaming of the oil on the dip stick (time for a rebuild). The good news is with Audi's if you pull the head, you can do the rings too by dropping the oil pan.
#5
I would never put any "motor flush" treatments in an engine
That last thing you want to do is dislodge all the deposits and other crud that is stuck everywhere and minding its own business. And, you don't want to take a chance of some product softening or damaging seals and causing more leaks or more oil burning.
Also, I'd strongly suggest running 20/50w if you live in a moderate climate.
Also, I'd strongly suggest running 20/50w if you live in a moderate climate.
#6
You many not have gotten all of the engine flush out...(more)
For that reason your clean oil may be thined and contaminated from loose crude.
For the price of it do a quick, oil change (filter included)
That should help but probally won't solve the problem as you probly lost a piece of sludge that was sealing tings pretty well.
For the price of it do a quick, oil change (filter included)
That should help but probally won't solve the problem as you probly lost a piece of sludge that was sealing tings pretty well.
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