85-4kq-girl

I responded to Al and asked him about his springs and shocks.

He checked ETKA and the front strut tubes are the same but the inserts and springs show a different number.

He mentioned thinking that quattro springs were the same size as CGT's, but the spring rates might be different.

So ride and height could be different...but is is possible? Anyone done this? I'd LOVE to take the easy way out with Al's goodies...

THANKS again!

--morgan

- GT Style -

Great cheap fix for now, gives you time to try to score better deals for a more thorough job later.

85-4kq-girl

Will it make her higher? Stiffer? Crappier/better handling?

I guess what I'm saying is...if I do this and put them in, *chances are* I won't be looking for anything else to replace it. Again, I'm looking for the cheap-er and easier way out. Shame on me, I know...I just don't have the cash to shell out on her to make her a Superstar! Especially since her clutch and master/slave job is looming in my future...

--morgan

- GT Style -

<center><img src="http://www.gabrielcaldwell.com/pix/Audi/Misc/dropped_4kq.jpg"></center><p>
The lowering springs I have in the 4kq may go into the CGT @ some point, so I'd done that research already.
If it weren't for the bolt pattern difference's I'd have probbaly done it by now ('84 CGT = 4x100, 4kq's = 4x108)

Supercoupe's parts will give you the quick &amp; cheap way out, nothing wrong w/ that in an emergency like this. Leaves more money to spend on the coming clutch repairs.

Inline5fan

in both the 4000csq and the CGT. So, this swap will have no affect on handling, stiffness, ride height, etc... If you only replaced one side in the front, you may notice some difference between the two sides, (because of differences in the age/wear on the strut cartridge insert) but as long as you're replacing both front strut assemblies, you won't have any problems.

It is a fairly straight forward job: dislodge tie rod end from strut assembly; remove caliper and carrier; (you may want to have a piece of rope or wire to tie the caliper up, so it doesn't hang by the brake line; remove rotor; dislodge lower ball joint from strut assembly; and remove top nut on strut top (bearing plate) and you should have the strut assembly loose from the car. Be careful they are rather heavy, so be ready.

Reinstall is basically the reverse of the removal, and because you didn't change the adjustment on the tie rods, there should be no need for an alignment.

The only caveat would be that the wheel bearings in the replacement strut housings are good. If they are in need of replacing, you definitely want to have that done before you go to the trouble of installing them.

Hope this helps, and if you need strut housings I have some as well, but I know that the wheel bearing are kaput in mine. Not to mention I am about 3 hours away.

Cheers,

Ted

Whitjr

There's nothing wrong w/ taking a inexpensive approach.

Katman

Way back when, I was looking for a way to get my 4kq a bit higher and stiffer.

"Supposedly" swapping coupe front springs in was the hot ticket.

So I went and got a set of struts &amp; spring from a coupe from the wreckers.

All said and done: The coupe springs may be a different part number, but seemed to have the same diamater of spring wire, and pretty well rode the same. *I* couldn't tell any difference.

At least I now had a second set of front springs, that I put could put on the back.. That really made a difference!

And as mentioned, a good time to replace wheel bearings and strut tops too..!

Onward

I'm curious about ride height front/back, ride quality etc.

I'm growing tired of the rear end sag of my h&amp;r's.

Katman

The 4kq with 4kq front springs in the back is great!

Obviously, makes the back end a bit higher.

But even better, makes the back end a bit 'looser', slightly countering the nasty tendancy to plow in corners. With a little 'flick', the back end comes out nice in snow and gravel..

(Sort of the same effect as you wold get by adding a small swaybar to the rear.)