knock sensor location? 5000cs tq

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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 03:58 PM
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Default knock sensor location? 5000cs tq

I'm trying to replace my knock sensor and I know what it looks like but i cant seem to find it on the block? does someone have a picture of what it looks like please? First audi here..
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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Right below the WUR(warm up regulator)
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by yodasfro
Right below the WUR(warm up regulator)
Thank you sir
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by yodasfro
Right below the WUR(warm up regulator)
ok so now i have a new problem, i recognized that that wasnt the same type of knock sensor i had bought as a replacement. mine looks more like a donut because a bolt goes through the hole in the center of it. then on my block i found the sensor your picture shows as well as a donut type one that was connected to the block but the actual connector was hanging loose. i unplugged the connector of the sensor that looks like the one in your picture and plugged in my new one once installed and it didnt make a difference. it still seems like my timing is off and that im having detonation issues. anytime i go over 3k my car loses power and the check engine light flashes. now what? do i need to completely remove the knock sensor that you depicted in your picture in order for my new one to work?
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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The bolt through sensor will work just fine. You just need the correct size bolt. The torque spec is 15 ft lb for said bolt. Torquing the knock sensor down is critical to it's operation. 7 ft lb is for the old style one piece sensor. Yes the sensor should be bolted to same spot as in the pic on a 5ktq MC1 engine. On the dual knock MC2 motor the two bosses to the left and right of the WUR are used.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:56 PM
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should that fix my hesitation problems?
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 03:07 PM
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Yes it should 3k cutout CEL flash is usually the knock sensor. Try re-torquing the sensor. You can also blink the fault codes via the CEL by inserting a spare fuse in top of the fuel pump relay for few seconds then removing. List of fault codes and how-to here http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...cuf.html#fc5kt
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:40 AM
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So I replaced the sensor in the right spot and t made it slightly better but I still have a fuel cut out and it's really only better in first gear. I couldn't get my hands on a torque wrench so it's a little more than finger tight. It should correct the timing on its own right? Or what other steps should I take. Sorry I'm much more familiar with domestic cars
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