Juny

Hi Gents & Ladies,

I feel like it's time to fix my Audi 1988 100CD(5000S in US) everything. I have tried to drive it without any fixing, but.. It coudln't be anymore.

So, simple questions.

1. Is it possible reseal power steering rack without getting out the engine? ( Sealing liquid doesn't work ..)

2. Is it possible change the head gasket without getting out the engine? (for the oily spark plug in cyl5. and loosing power)

3. Is it possible remove the transmission oil filter without lifting the car? (for the tough changing into top gear..)

I know these maybe silly questions, but I really want to know if somebody did it by him/herself. I mean I'd like to hear about their experiences.

Thank you. Cheers.

V8QinNJ

While I honestly think that each one of your questions are genuine, in the way your asking tells me that you not have the tooling or skills necessary to tackle these jobs.

But the short answers are:

1. No the rack must be removed fro the car to re-seal it (or just replace it)

2. Nope the cylinder head must be removed from the engine for a head gasket replacment

3. This car is an Auto?? if it is you will need to jack the car up to get under it to get the trans pan off the car /drain the fluid, in order to replace the filter.

Good luck.

Scott '90 V8Q x2

boxerfan

1) Yopu can try Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in the Pentosin reservoir. It will swell the seals and slow or even stop leakis. It depends how far gone it is.

2) The engine can stay in the car for a HG replacement, HOWEVER, it is a fairly complex job. Have you done a compression test? Maybe the spark for #5 is failing?

3) An automatic? How many miles are on it? They are weak transmissions and many are failing now. I have never owned a autotragic and so have never serviced one. Perhaps there is much more you can tackle with the pan off? Just speculation... If the car is in great shape maybe it is time for a professional rebuild?

Always expect it will be more difficult than first anticipated. HTH.

audijim113

Reading your post again, it is not clear whether you thought it necessary to remove the engine to get at the rack. The rack must come out and it can be done without removing the engine. Yes, you will get some scraped knuckles. To me, the hardest part was the flexible steering column connector.

If you or anyone has put any regular ps fluid or stop leak, flush the entire system or the old fluid will just contaminate the seals on the new rack.

There are rebuild/reseal kits but I'd just get one that had been rebuilt.

Definitly do a compresion check on the engine. Your poor performance could also be a bad injector. If you have a bad cylinder, taking the head off can be done. When it is off, replace the exhaust manifold studs. For sure one or two are allready broken. you can drill out the studs yourself, but since it's a good idea to have the head checked at a machine shop, why not let them do it. They can also check out your valves while it is there and check the surface for flat/straight. If the valves or valve seals need doing, this is certainly the time to do it.

The transmission is a weak point. On my wife's old 86 with 200K+ miles, it was balky shifting into 3rd. You can drop the pan and change the filter/gasket pretty easilly. When I dropped the pan, there were some plastic pieces floating around in there, which is common. If your tranny isn't showing signs of slipping, the fluid/filter change can help.

Depending on how you drive, it might go for another 100K.

Juny

Thank you all.

Actually, My question was about...

"To fix power streeing rack or engine, Should I remove the engine out the car? " ..

I think my poor English gave you guys some misunderstanding. sorry about that.

However, about the engine.. yes. Cylinder Number 5 is falling. How do you know that? Is it common?