Testing resolves Green Eyed Jealousy...sorta?....
#1
Testing resolves Green Eyed Jealousy...sorta?....
Hi all,
Did some testing last night on my jealous 5ktq:
RPM and Crank sensors - terminals 1 and 2 ~ 950 ohms
Continuity between (RPM, Crank and Hall) sensor plugs and ECU - OK
Ignition on, voltage to Hall sensor - 11+ volts
Ignition on, Hall sensor out of window ~ 4.6 volts
Ignition on, Hall sensor in window ~ 0.7 volts (should be 0-0.5v)
I'm not sure if the 0.7v is a problem, but when I reinstalled the rotor, cap, lead from the coil, it started right up!!!!!!!
Problem is, though, it's still throwing an RPM sensor code - What's up with
that?
Did some testing last night on my jealous 5ktq:
RPM and Crank sensors - terminals 1 and 2 ~ 950 ohms
Continuity between (RPM, Crank and Hall) sensor plugs and ECU - OK
Ignition on, voltage to Hall sensor - 11+ volts
Ignition on, Hall sensor out of window ~ 4.6 volts
Ignition on, Hall sensor in window ~ 0.7 volts (should be 0-0.5v)
I'm not sure if the 0.7v is a problem, but when I reinstalled the rotor, cap, lead from the coil, it started right up!!!!!!!
Problem is, though, it's still throwing an RPM sensor code - What's up with
that?
#3
Nope - engine running.....
and it consistently throws an RPM code. I think it is probably due to a loose connection in the vicinity of the hall sensor connector and ignition coil. When it would not start the tachometer needle wouldn't do it's usual movements, and there would be the smell of gas (RPM sensor sending info to ECU, turning fuel pump on). Moving the hall connector seems to have (partially) solved the problem. I'll look into the wiring diagram a bit more this summer to get a better handle on where the flaky connection may be. Thanks!
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