Bleeding 1 of 4 calipers? your thoughts
11-10-2004, 06:59 AM
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Bleeding 1 of 4 calipers? your thoughts
Your thoughts!! I have two broken bleeding screws in the rear, d.f is ceased and the p.f is the only bleeding screw that opened - most like because the caliper was rebuilt last yr. Anyway my question is can you bleeding just from the f.p all four brake line. If I keep bleeding it for a long period of time will all the air come through. And how long do you people think I should bleed for.....pumping breaks until their no air come out? any advice on DIY broken bleeding screws would be appreciated, I search the forum but little direction....thanks
11-10-2004, 07:38 AM
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You've got to bleed all four corners. Air will not move to the only open line...
If this was true, they would just put one bleed port some place and make life simpler. It is not true. You must bleed each caliper and the master cylinder to insure the whole thing is air free.
11-10-2004, 07:46 AM
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read:
You need to bleed all 4 seperately.
For the 2 rear, you will have to replace the broken bleeder screws. Unless you've got a decent torch (propane might do it..... might need oxy-acetylene) and a set of screw outs, your not gettin those suckers out. Either drill and retap the holes, or buy new calipers.
For the siezed front bleeder.... heat it. Get the casting around it hot, and get the screw hot. Have a punch/flathead screwdriver and hammer handy.... once the screw is redhot, start tapping it and the surrounding casting to break the bonds between the rusted metals. Then get the wrench on there (assuming it's not stripped... if its stripped, get out the vice grips!), and undo that bleeder screw. If the screw needs to be replaced, then replace it!
For the 2 rear, you will have to replace the broken bleeder screws. Unless you've got a decent torch (propane might do it..... might need oxy-acetylene) and a set of screw outs, your not gettin those suckers out. Either drill and retap the holes, or buy new calipers.
For the siezed front bleeder.... heat it. Get the casting around it hot, and get the screw hot. Have a punch/flathead screwdriver and hammer handy.... once the screw is redhot, start tapping it and the surrounding casting to break the bonds between the rusted metals. Then get the wrench on there (assuming it's not stripped... if its stripped, get out the vice grips!), and undo that bleeder screw. If the screw needs to be replaced, then replace it!
11-10-2004, 07:47 AM
#6
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Like YucatanAudi says
the air stays in the line. It does not move back toward the reseviour nor will it move toward a line that is being bled.
Each wheel has seperate lines.
Each wheel has seperate lines.
