CIS Fuel injection
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Yes it may be two problems
just got the car don't know the history and don't know the car very well. The factory manual is better than nothing but an expensive dissapointment. All comments are appreciated.
The loss of power does seem electrical acts like the computer has gotten confused or gone into a low power protection mode. Perhaps it thinks the knock sensor is bad and retards the timing. Cycling the power may be clearing it. Hmmm Need a way to monitor what happens to timing when the power loss is present.
Reference your comment about the air leak: Looking for an air leak, checked the brake booster. Checked the air sensor to throttle body boot. Propane arround the manifold does nothing except cant get to the bottom side. Propane into the air intake smooths out and increases the idle.
When the air sensor reading goes low a tap to the the fuel metering section brings it back.
The loss of power does seem electrical acts like the computer has gotten confused or gone into a low power protection mode. Perhaps it thinks the knock sensor is bad and retards the timing. Cycling the power may be clearing it. Hmmm Need a way to monitor what happens to timing when the power loss is present.
Reference your comment about the air leak: Looking for an air leak, checked the brake booster. Checked the air sensor to throttle body boot. Propane arround the manifold does nothing except cant get to the bottom side. Propane into the air intake smooths out and increases the idle.
When the air sensor reading goes low a tap to the the fuel metering section brings it back.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
Re: Yes it may be two problems
if you enrichen it and the car runs better you have to have a leak somewhere,make sure the oil filler gasket is good,oil level dipstick seals,crankcase hoses are all good,etc.does it look like anyone played with the plate screw?also did the car sit for a while,sounds like control piston is varnished up
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Re: Yes it may be two problems
The top of the tube that the dipstick slides into is red plastic. This red plastic tube is broken. When the dipstick is pulled out the top half of the red piece comes with the dipstick. No seal there.
This afternoon though, when I pinched the small tube that runs from the intake manifold to the back of the valve cover there was only a slight drop in idle RPM. I will seal up the dip stick and redo the enrichment test.
If the "plate screw" is the screw holding the plate to the arm then no it does not look messed with.
Yes I believe it was not being driven much at all before we got it.
This afternoon though, when I pinched the small tube that runs from the intake manifold to the back of the valve cover there was only a slight drop in idle RPM. I will seal up the dip stick and redo the enrichment test.
If the "plate screw" is the screw holding the plate to the arm then no it does not look messed with.
Yes I believe it was not being driven much at all before we got it.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
Re: Yes it may be two problems
first,fix the oil dipstick tube,as this can create a vacuum/crankcase leak and lean the motor out.the screw i'm talking about is the co screw in the fuel distributer.first fix the crankcase leak
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Re: Yes it may be two problems or three or four
Thanks for all the help!
Repaired the dipstick holder but dipstick in or out makes no difference in air flow sensor reading or sound of engine.
On closer inspection found small crack in induction system boot at a repair. Squeezing boot caused change in air flow sensor reading from bad to good to bad but no change in sound of engine.
Where is the best place to buy the boot? Have not priced from dealer yet.
The measured pull requirred to raise the air flow plate through full travel, 1 pound 3 ounces to 1 pound 6 ounces. Noticed condensed water in this area.
I wondering if the enging mounts could be bad allowing too much engine movement cracking the boot. Other reason I suspect mounts is that it gets jumpy if I don't get the clutch in a low speed. Of course that could be feedback between normal engine movement and the cracked boot lettin air in.
Repaired the dipstick holder but dipstick in or out makes no difference in air flow sensor reading or sound of engine.
On closer inspection found small crack in induction system boot at a repair. Squeezing boot caused change in air flow sensor reading from bad to good to bad but no change in sound of engine.
Where is the best place to buy the boot? Have not priced from dealer yet.
The measured pull requirred to raise the air flow plate through full travel, 1 pound 3 ounces to 1 pound 6 ounces. Noticed condensed water in this area.
I wondering if the enging mounts could be bad allowing too much engine movement cracking the boot. Other reason I suspect mounts is that it gets jumpy if I don't get the clutch in a low speed. Of course that could be feedback between normal engine movement and the cracked boot lettin air in.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
Re: Yes it may be two problems or three or four
ok,now were moving.you still have air leaks,pulling the dipstick os removing the oil cap should show a engine difference.condensation in the plate area?i think i remember reading something about a drain kit update for this problem[modifying airbox i think,will investigate],anyway,check the crankcase hose[on left rear of motor,bottom],check idle valve hoses,etc.now look at plate housing top in between the fuel distributer and the boot.do you see a little hole or a aluminum cap in the middle?let me know
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Re: Air leaks
I'm not sure it was mentioned, this is a 88 model 80 with 4 cylinder engine.
On the housing between the boot and the fuel distributer there is an area that is about 10mm wide that is rasised about 1mm. In the center of the raised area is what looks somewhat like a rivet head. I don't see a hole. I don't see a cap designed for easy removal, Just the "rivet head". The rivet head is about 3mm in diameter.
I took a quick look for the crankcase hose without jacking the car, did not see it. Is that left from the drivers perspective? Where does the other end of this hose go?
A small hose from the engine side of the throttle is what I suspect is for crankcase suction. It runs to the back of the valve cover where it joins into a larger appendage to the valve cover. The appendage also couples to a hose that seems to tap into filtered air before it gets to the metering plate.
This is great help, thank you. I won't be able to look at the car again until Friday.
Tom
On the housing between the boot and the fuel distributer there is an area that is about 10mm wide that is rasised about 1mm. In the center of the raised area is what looks somewhat like a rivet head. I don't see a hole. I don't see a cap designed for easy removal, Just the "rivet head". The rivet head is about 3mm in diameter.
I took a quick look for the crankcase hose without jacking the car, did not see it. Is that left from the drivers perspective? Where does the other end of this hose go?
A small hose from the engine side of the throttle is what I suspect is for crankcase suction. It runs to the back of the valve cover where it joins into a larger appendage to the valve cover. The appendage also couples to a hose that seems to tap into filtered air before it gets to the metering plate.
This is great help, thank you. I won't be able to look at the car again until Friday.
Tom
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Imola Ghost
S4 (B6 & B7 Platforms) Discussion
0
Aug 14, 2007 03:37 PM
Adam Mowafy
Audi 5000 / 200 / V8 Discussion
7
Jul 20, 2003 02:56 AM
Dirty Dingo
A4 (B5 Platform) Discussion
6
May 17, 2003 05:02 PM
