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The plugs and pins don't look bad. But that amount of rust, who knows what's going on inside the unit. If the radio unit is rusty too, water issues on both sides. I don't know anything about the cabriolet in that regard. Are there drain plugs in those spaces that are clogged, should water not be making it to that area and there's a leak above, no idea.
That harness plug though. The two pins on that end with the rust intrusion, those two are 16 and 47, which is ground and fused 12v to power the damper valves. The lone pin on the other end is 32, which is fused 12v for the J250 itself. Not sure if water though would harm the unit, it should just cause the fuse to blow.
Just swapping it, you'll see right off the bat if it at least now communicates. Do validate that 12v measures cleanly from 47 to 16 and from 32 to 16 (16 is the large brown; 47 is the large red/white; 32 is the not as large black).
Yeah they don't look too bad at all. The plug in the car is actually in perfect condition other than that little bit of dirt in the bottom which shouldn't affect anything. It's been raining heavily last night and I came to check the boot spaces and it seems that just cleaning the mould off the rubber seal for the cab roof was enough to stop the leak. Must have been the capillary effect dragging it through the mould or something, who knows...
I'll check between pin 16 and 47 for 12V later, and between 32 and ground for that 12V to see if all power is in the right place. I don't suppose you know the fuse number for this unit? I can't seem to find a reliable list of fuses... I think it's fair to say this unit was damaged, I cracked it open this morning at work and there's plenty of corrosion, so much that the leg of one chip has gone. So yeah...
& I'll be getting full, recent scans of everything before and after on Sunday using VCDS so will post here when I've got them.
IF my radio module needs replacing, is that a component that has Component Protect and would need to be re-coded at Audi? I'm sure I read somewhere that these days people can code them themselves using VCDS but I may be wrong. I'm looking at buying one of the MOST Loop Bypass cables that you mentioned to check if it is the radio that's at fault.
wow, that's ... really messed up. The power of water.
The radio unit is most definitely part of the CP system. But CP just creates annoyances, not disables basic operation. So if you replace the radio unit and MMI still doesn't come up, you know it wasn't the radio (or the replacement is bad). This is why you get the $10 bypass loop set and confirm without question that the MMI works without the radio unit on the loop.
CP cannot be undone with scan tools. You need ODIS and an online connection to Audi servers (ie, an authorized login to the ODIS application). So people can do it remotely if you have the laptop and correct cable on hand. Or you just get a dealership or shop to do it for hopefully minimal labor bill.
Fuses, the fuses for B8 era have three "generations". The B8.0 MMI 2G era through MY09. The B8.0 MMI 3G era stating MY10. And the B8.5 facelift era (which also is MMI 3G). So you have to be sure which era's fuse listing you are looking at. For your car, that would be a MY10+ B8.0 list.
I would go to erwin.audi.com (erwin.audiusa.com for NAR) and pay for a day and get all the PDFs for your VIN. The fuse listings are in the "back" of the wiring schematics document. Again, make note of which "era" you're looking at in the pages.
You can also look over some copies at cardiagn: https://cardiagn.com/audi-a5-coupe-8...anuals-wiring/
But viewing the pages through their small window is annoying, particularly with the large format pages of the wiring diagrams documents.
Right rear for B8.0 MY10+ appears to be:
A - none
B2, B3, B4 - trailer module
B5 - EPB button term 30 B6 - J250 <<< 15A fuse, this will be the larger wire to supply power for the valves
B7 - J540 EPB
B8, B10, B11 - J393 BCM2
B9 - J492 sport diff
B12 - J909 some kind of fuel tank leak detection module
C - various
D1, D2, D3, D4 - 12v sockets
D7 - J791 park steer assist, if you have that
D9 - EPB button term 15
D10 - J770 side assist radar 2
D11 - heated left rear seat, if equipped D12 - various <<< 5A, term 15 to the units that got term 30 from the B column, this will include the smaller black wire to the J250
E3 - J525 amp, or radio if MMI 3G and not B&O
E4 - J794
E5 - radio if have J525 amp
E6 - backup camera module
It's nuts isn't it. It's clearly been like that for a while. Audi had my car over a year and a half ago to fix a roof problem and mentioned the water ingress and that they cleared it out, obviously didn't solve it though!
So, if I buy the bypass loop, fit it and the MMI works, I can fit a new radio and use the car + MMI until I get it re-coded for the car? That's some good news. Think I'll buy the Bypass loop asap if that's the case. If it comes by Sunday then my mate with VCDS can sort out the suspension and almost everything will be back to working order!
I'll take a look at Erwin for the PDFs, I'm sure it'll be beneficial for me to have them honestly. This repair has only cost £50 so far and that's just for the module, then depending on the radio & coding it could be quite a bit more judging by the ebay prices of radio modules. We shall see. Thanks for the link too!
Edit: Seems like I can't create a login to download the PDFs? Is this normal?
Last edited by MikeyT1991; 10-13-2023 at 01:48 AM.
It's MY10, so it's going to be MMI 3G. Yes, there's 3G Basic and 3G High (Audi used Low and High for 2G, but seemed to switch to Basic and High for 3G, with High being replaced by Plus at the facelift). High has the nav data on an internal hard drive, while Basic has to have the nav data on a disc or SD card. Also, High has a "joystick" on top of the main dial; Basic does not. Basic also has a lower res screen; not sure if it's physically smaller.
As for erwin, I don't know. Others on that side have been able to get the stuff from them, but what they did I don't know. We have our own erwin URL here for the US. I can't even bring up erwin.audi.com anymore, "forbidden". Whatever, Audi.
It's MY10, so it's going to be MMI 3G. Yes, there's 3G Basic and 3G High (Audi used Low and High for 2G, but seemed to switch to Basic and High for 3G, with High being replaced by Plus at the facelift). High has the nav data on an internal hard drive, while Basic has to have the nav data on a disc or SD card. Also, High has a "joystick" on top of the main dial; Basic does not. Basic also has a lower res screen; not sure if it's physically smaller.
That's a weird one, because I have a Satnav Disc but also have the little joystick part on top of the main dial. How odd!
Okay, SERIOUS question time aboup Component Protection. I took the Radio module out today and the whole area was totally wet. Ringing wet you might say, I'm currently drying it out, but I decided to take apart the radio to see what the extent of the damage was. And as you can see from the images below, very likely that the suspect radio is causing my MMI failure as the corrosion has gotten the best of it too.
I've been reading up about CP. I know about the EEPROM Chip that people have successfully de-soldered and soldered back onto their new modules to prevent the need to go to Audi, so my question is interesting... The radio module has various parts to it, the top PCB separates from the bottom, and the bottom is where all the corrosion is. The top half of the module seems totally fine and serviceable.
The EEPROM chip is also on the top PCB... So, would taking apart the new module and swapping the top PCB save me a trip to Audi or some other specialist to get the coding re-done? I have checked online at:https://www.audienthusiasts.com/Info...nt_EEPROM.html and the chip is identical.
If it's the same radio unit rev, swapping the whole board might work. I have a dead MMI 2G B&O amp, but when I took it apart, I noticed there's really two boards to it, the main circuits, where the CP chip is, and the amp power board. I know one service for the amp mentions "and we move the CP chip over, assuming the CP chip still works".
Just purchased a new radio (4F0 035 056 B) for £76 on Ebay. I don't think that's too bad of a price!
The Bypass loop worked perfectly. Flawless, MMI came back on so that's that solved. just need to see if the radio PCB swap will work.
Finally, the suspension module DOES need coding I think. I've had a friend run a new scan with VCDS and the details are attached to this post & in the spoiler tag. Address 14 shows 00149 - End of Line Programming not Completed
I believe that this is also giving me 'no signal/ communication warnings' on other addresses, such as 'Address 17: Instruments'. Is the coding problem responsible for this and is there a way to fix this VIA VCDS/ OBD11? Thanks for any advice!
Spoiler
Sunday,15,October,2023,13:19:52:49653
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 11 x64
VCDS Version: 23.3.1.0 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4631.4
Data version: 20230421 DS346.2 www.Ross-Tech.com
Address 14: Susp. Elect. Labels: None
Control Module Part Number: 8R0 907 364 B HW: 8K0 907 364
Component and/or Version: DAEMPFUNGS-SG H09 0053
Software Coding: 000000
Work Shop Code: WSC 06325 000 00000
VCID: 392F269C99558D92085-806C
3 Faults Found:
00149 - End of Line Programming not Completed
000 - - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 242
Mileage: 116735 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2023.10.15
Time: 13:23:34
Freeze Frame:
01042 - Control Module; Not Coded
000 - - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 242
Mileage: 116735 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2023.10.15
Time: 13:23:34
Freeze Frame:
01437 - Control Position not Learned
000 - - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 242
Mileage: 116735 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2023.10.15
Time: 13:23:34
Here's the VCDS scan section for the J250 from a US MY11 S5 cab:
Code:
Address 14: Susp. Elect. (J250) Labels: None
Part No SW: 8R0 907 364 B HW: 8K0 907 364
Component: DAEMPFUNGS-SG H09 0053
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 01071007460002
Coding: 050181
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 392C2450D95E20BF2A7-806C
notice the Coding string, whereas yours is 000000:
Code:
Address 14: Susp. Elect. (J250) Labels: None
Part No SW: 8R0 907 364 B HW: 8K0 907 364
Component: DAEMPFUNGS-SG H09 0053
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 23041001280002
Coding: 000000
Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
VCID: 392F269C99558D92085-806C
So yeah, step one is you definitely need to set the long coding on the module. Whether or not 050181 would be correct or not for your specific vehicle, I don't know. It's worth a start unless something in long coding helper with that value seems clearly not applicable for your vehicle. But I'd ignore anything about the J250 until it's coded. There may or may not be some basic settings you need to run on a new installation too. You'll want to look and see if any basic settings actions are already known in the drop-down list.
Fabulous.I wonder how much the dealers would do this for... I don't actually have VCDS, a friend of mine does and it says that a security code is required to login to the module. I found these 2 links online where the first explains the process for a MK5 golf, which is also Address 14 and a J250 module, and the second is the same module on an A8; https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/4011/ https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-.../#post25018817
In the first link it talks about suspending the car in the air to get basic settings, but since I have cancellation modules I don't think that'll be necessary. But as for coding, since I'm not familiar with the VCDS system I'm not sure what it means so would need a little help with it. A friend of mine has OBD11 which allows for long coding. Would this be an option for recoding the module too?
Also, now worried to death about the roof fault code that's in the log. Worried about a corroded sensor now after all this water ingress.
The other day me and my partner had the top half open, the rear deck moved out of the way so I could check the seal for damage to find out where the leak was coming from. About 10 or 15 mins into investigation the bottom of the roof went floppy and pulling the button up to put the roof all the way down gave a soft top cannot be used warning, but it would go back up with pushing the button.
Haven't actually tested the roof works yet since then... What a pain, I'm at my wits end with this thing.
10-12-2023, 01:46 PM
