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I have also been reading about capacitors, it seems that most people are using the speaker "impedance ohm" (4Ohm for the Hertz DT24.3) for the calculation but other experts online are using the "Re Ohm" which is 3.3 Ohm. https://hertz-audio.com/product/car-...-dieci-dt24_3/ I assume it shouldn't make a big difference but just curious to understand...
The correct thing to do is to look at the impedance graph for the driver and then use the value that corresponds with your target crossover frequency. Unfortunately car audio companies rarely publish that data so if you don't own an impedance analyzer you just have to guess.
You should *never* use Re for crossover calculations. Re is DC resistance and the system will never output DC to the speaker. It will always be higher than Re with an AC waveform. Using the incorrect impedance value in your crossover calculations will change the crossover point. In your specific example using a lower impedance value will also lower the crossover point.
I installed the Basser box with a JL Audio 10", and am moving on to the front speakers. Couple questions:
1) For the lower a-pillar Parts Express has a plethora of xx25F speakers.
- What's the difference between the AN and ND series?
- Is everyone using the silk dome? I presume the titanium would be too bright.
- I plan to keep the stock mount. I'm assuming the AN25 & ND25FN would need some type of mounting adapter. I can trim speaker rings, so which is better, the ND25FW or ND25FA?
2) For the dash center, there is a difference of opinion on the 4FE32 4ohm vs 8ohm. Does anyone have any new opinions on which impedance to get? I won't be changing the center tweeter, so I won't be coupling the two speakers in parallel to increase the impedance.
[QUOTE=Mageus;25747457]
1) For the lower a-pillar Parts Express has a plethora of xx25F speakers.
- What's the difference between the AN and ND series?/QUOTE]
AN is the same as the ND25FN silk dome tweeter but packaged with various aftermarket mounting options. Since you already have a tweeter location, I wouldn't use this one unless you intend to harvest the driver from it.
FN is just the bare tweeter element. Buy this if you intend to install into the factory mounting brackets (this is what I did in the guide)
FW has a giant waveguide on it
FA has a mounting faceplate for normal speaker use. Buy this one if you intend to cut down the faceplate to fit into the factory mounts.
TA is the titanium version which actually isn't that bright and has about the same efficiency. It's more of a personal taste issue. Titanium tweeters tend to be lower distortion and flatter response and with slightly softer "edges" to the sound. I mainly push the silk one because it's got a little rise which helps it cut road noise well. TBH This isn't my favorite tweeter outside of car audio.
- Is everyone using the silk dome? I presume the titanium would be too bright.
Not everyone. Some folks used the aluminum tweeter which is the crazy bright one.
- I plan to keep the stock mount. I'm assuming the AN25 & ND25FN would need some type of mounting adapter. I can trim speaker rings, so which is better, the ND25FW or ND25FA?
Don't use the FW for anything car audio.
If you are going to use the white factory brackets use the FN.
If you want to clip into the factory panel clips use FA
2) For the dash center, there is a difference of opinion on the 4FE32 4ohm vs 8ohm. Does anyone have any new opinions on which impedance to get? I won't be changing the center tweeter, so I won't be coupling the two speakers in parallel to increase the impedance.
The 8 ohm is 3dB quieter. I would use this one or it's going to be A LOT louder than the other speakers around it.
FN is just the bare tweeter element. Buy this if you intend to install into the factory mounting brackets (this is what I did in the guide)
...
FA has a mounting faceplate for normal speaker use. Buy this one if you intend to cut down the faceplate to fit into the factory mounts.
...
If you are going to use the white factory brackets use the FN.
If you want to clip into the factory panel clips use FA
...
Thanx for the response. I'm still not clear on the mounting. It sounds like you are saying that the white stock bracket (with the 3 clips) can be used with the FN (it's the same diameter as the stock tweet). Whereas, if you remove the white stock bracket, you can trim the FA to fit the A-pillar trim after removing the white bracket. Is this correct? I don't see any way to fix a tweeter once you remove the white bracket, so I'm assuming people glue it in.
I think I'll order the xx25's and the 8ohm 4FE32, since it's in stock. I'll probably upgrade the door speakers later, which might compensate for the lower output. I can just swallow the $10 shipping if I want to try the 4ohm 4FE32 later.
Thanx for the response. I'm still not clear on the mounting. It sounds like you are saying that the white stock bracket (with the 3 clips) can be used with the FN (it's the same diameter as the stock tweet). Whereas, if you remove the white stock bracket, you can trim the FA to fit the A-pillar trim after removing the white bracket. Is this correct? I don't see any way to fix a tweeter once you remove the white bracket, so I'm assuming people glue it in.
The factory tweeter element sits in a little plastic pocket in the housing (the assembly you can remove from the car). I used a long carbide dremel bit to grind down the sides of the plastic pocket around the magnet. Once that's out of the way, the factory tweeter element falls out of the housing. It just so happens that the ND 25 bare element tweeter sits perfectly on the plastic ring in the housing (you'll need a little clean up to make it flat ish after removing the factory element depending on how steady your hands were). So you can just drop the ND25 element onto the ring and then secure round the edge with hot glue. Then solder the new tweeter into the factory plug on the bracket (with a new capacitor inline) and you can just plug into the factory wiring. This last step is the main reason I prefer this method over buying a faceplated tweeter and grinding it down. The other being I don't trust myself not to damage the silk dome grinding on the plastic less than 1 inch away.
I think I'll order the xx25's and the 8ohm 4FE32, since it's in stock. I'll probably upgrade the door speakers later, which might compensate for the lower output. I can just swallow the $10 shipping if I want to try the 4ohm 4FE32 later.
Honestly the center channel is a novelty. Most of the sound comes from the front doors
I was talking about the white bracket with three tabs that is attached to the a-pillar trim. Can you take an ND25FA and just cut 3 notches in the ring to fit the white bracket? That way you don't have to damage any of the stock parts, and no glue/fasteners involved. I'm assuming the ring detaches from the tweeter, so you can work on it without risking damage to the speaker.
Also, my bad for never noticing the extra tabs on your Google Sheets doc. Of course, sometimes Sheets is buggy and doesn't display them properly.
I don't think you can separate that faceplate. It's glued in at the factory. And if that faceplate is anything like the NHP25Ti-4 which I used that includes a 2.5" cast aluminum faceplate. That is not fun to cut through. Ask me how I know.
I installed the same faitalpro midrange in my door using the same type of connector from aliexpress, but pin1 is negative on mine and I noticed in your pic that it's reversed on your connector. I'd just like to confirm if polarity on mine is incorrect. Thanks in advance. Your posts/pics in this thread as well as Bobby and Bruce's have helped me tremendously to tackle the upgrade to my system. Those sorry excuse for speakers in the B&O were driving me nuts with how horrible they sounded!
After the rear doors were complete I moved up to the front door woofer and mid drivers. I used the Aurum Cantus AC-165/50C2C 8 Ohm 6 1/2" inch woofer and I used the Faital PRO 4FE32-4 4 Ohm mid woofer. I installed the Aurum Cantus using the Basser DMaudi03 MDF spacer mount along with using the single tab half of the Metra 72-9002 wiring harness adapter. I installed the mid woofer using the small 2 wire wiring harness that was bought at AliExpress 4E0972575 (I bought 30 ea of the female 4E0972575 the 2 pin connector called the license plate light connector and I also bought 30 ea of the female 3B0972712 the flat 2 spade used for the woofer speakers in the doors, when I was first gathering the needed parts) and trimmed off a speaker mounting ear of the Faital PRO 4FE32-4 speaker to fit in the stock door location. There are no words of wisdom for this swap as it is straight forward and quite easy to do. I am truly blown away with the Aurum Cantus AC-165/50C2C replacement speakers. They are some awesome built speakers and I am blown away by the sound they produce for such a small speaker. In my opinion they are well worth the extra money and you can't go wrong putting them in the car. B&O speakers removed. Use the right side single tab alignment side wires to make your connections. Metra 72-9002 speaker wiring harness adapter for the Woofers. Mount the Aurum Cantus speakers to the Basser DMaudi03 mount using foam weather stripping tape for a great seal. Again use the foam weather stripping tape and sandwich the wiring harness between a small piece of foam tape to keep it secured and not crushed as I did in the above picture Woofer is installed and the front door panel fits nicely over it. The FaitalPRO 4FE32-4 is installed and hooked up. Just trim one mounting ear off and it lines right up. Use the small 2 pin wiring harness connector to make the connection.
I installed the same faitalpro midrange in my door using the same type of connector from aliexpress, but pin1 is negative on mine and I noticed in your pic that it's reversed on your connector. I'd just like to confirm if polarity on mine is incorrect. Thanks in advance. Your posts/pics in this thread as well as Bobby and Bruce's have helped me tremendously to tackle the upgrade to my system. Those sorry excuse for speakers in the B&O were driving me nuts with how horrible they sounded!
I was talking about the white bracket with three tabs that is attached to the a-pillar trim. Can you take an ND25FA and just cut 3 notches in the ring to fit the white bracket? That way you don't have to damage any of the stock parts, and no glue/fasteners involved. I'm assuming the ring detaches from the tweeter, so you can work on it without risking damage to the speaker.
Yes you can. That's how Bruce did it
Also, my bad for never noticing the extra tabs on your Google Sheets doc. Of course, sometimes Sheets is buggy and doesn't display them properly.
08-31-2022, 09:41 PM
