Homelink receiver
#181
AudiWorld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I picked up my 2018 A5 Coupe last day of February and just got around to programming HomeLink a few days ago. My garage door opener is a rolling code one. It took two tries to set, probably because I was a bit too slow between pressing the "learn" button on the opener and then getting back inside the car to press the selected Homelink button. But all in all, it went fairly smoothly. Lucky me.
If I'm being nitpicky (and what else are these forums for!), I would prefer a different placement of the Homelink. From my front seat position, I almost always have to look up and verify I'm pushing the right button. It's placed a bit too far forward for me. On my previous cars, Homelink buttons were underside of the rear view mirror. Easy to see and hit.
If I'm being nitpicky (and what else are these forums for!), I would prefer a different placement of the Homelink. From my front seat position, I almost always have to look up and verify I'm pushing the right button. It's placed a bit too far forward for me. On my previous cars, Homelink buttons were underside of the rear view mirror. Easy to see and hit.
Last edited by mullini; 03-12-2018 at 10:00 AM.
#182
AudiWorld Senior Member
I picked up my 2018 A5 Coupe last day of February and just got around to programming HomeLink a few days ago. My garage door opener is a rolling code one. It took two tries to set, probably because I was a bit too slow between pressing the "learn" button on the opener and then getting back inside the car to press the selected Homelink button. But all in all, it went fairly smoothly. Lucky me.
If I'm being nitpicky (and what else are these forum for!), I would prefer a different placement of the Homelink. From my front seat position, I almost alway shave to look up and verify I'm pushing the right button. It's placed a bit too far forward for me. On my previous cars, Homelink buttons were underside of the rear view mirror. Easy to see and hit.
If I'm being nitpicky (and what else are these forum for!), I would prefer a different placement of the Homelink. From my front seat position, I almost alway shave to look up and verify I'm pushing the right button. It's placed a bit too far forward for me. On my previous cars, Homelink buttons were underside of the rear view mirror. Easy to see and hit.
#183
AudiWorld Senior Member
#184
AudiWorld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#185
AudiWorld Senior Member
Looks like you are lucky then if you got it to work without pulling the fuse for side assist; lots of people with purple buttons having issues!
#186
AudiWorld Junior Member
Hello! Thanks for this article! I too have the purple button and antenna wire garage door opener and had no luck programming the homelink in my 2018 S5 Technik. This procedure worked flawlessly.
#187
Bingo! I have LiftMaster with purple button. Experienced all the issues described in this thread. Took 2018 Q7 Prestige to dealer where they 'replaced' faulty Homelink transceiver / receiver, etc. Told me it was fixed . . . came home and still could not program. Saw this message on key fob frequency interference. Pressed 'start' button to turn on power to the car (did not start engine). Walked away from car with fob until it beeped to let me know it's out of range. Went back to car and everything programmed as advertised, quickly and without a hitch. What a crazy design flaw.
#188
After seeing this thread and all the problems, I was really dreading trying to program Homelink.
However I am relieved to say that it worked relatively well with my 2011 vintage Genies and 2018 A5 SB Prestige with DAP without pulling any fuses or worrying about the FOBS, although it did take a couple of attempts and I don't know how, but somehow I managed to lose the programming for # 1 while trying to program # 2, but I eventually got them both. (I hope!)
At a glance, it looks like many of the problems on this thread are with Liftmaster, but there were some strange things with my Genies so I am posting this in case that it helps those with Genies and may or may not give clues to those who have something different.
It is a confusing process and it seems like the instructions make it even more confusing than it needs to be AND many of the instructions seem discrepant....Sheesh!!.... so I am posting this in the hope that it helps.
If you have a Genie that is using Intellicode 2 remotes (green light when you press the remote), the weird thing is that even though your opener is using Intellicode 2, you must switch one of the buttons on a remote to Intellicode 1 (red light when you press the button) to "train" Homelink (Step 1). Instructions for this are easily found but basically you press and hold open button on remote until it is both green and red and then toggle it to red, or you can use already programmed button.
The even weirder and really confusing thing is that it doesn't matter which button that you use for this....the button that you use to train Homelink (Step 1 in MM1) does not need to be programmed to any opener.....even just an unused button and that is what they recommend. Any button that is transmitting in Intellcode 1 can be used to "train" Homelink.
For step 2, (synchronizing), you need to put your opener in the programming mode and you do need your remote to do this, (see instructions below) but throughout this whole process, a remote that is programmed to the opener is never used to program Homelink, just any button that has been put in Intellicode 1. Very strange.
I found these instructions from Homelink to be most accurate, used in conjunction with the Garage Door programing prompts in the MMI.
http://www.homelink.com/assets/inclu...ellicode2.html
Good luck!
However I am relieved to say that it worked relatively well with my 2011 vintage Genies and 2018 A5 SB Prestige with DAP without pulling any fuses or worrying about the FOBS, although it did take a couple of attempts and I don't know how, but somehow I managed to lose the programming for # 1 while trying to program # 2, but I eventually got them both. (I hope!)
At a glance, it looks like many of the problems on this thread are with Liftmaster, but there were some strange things with my Genies so I am posting this in case that it helps those with Genies and may or may not give clues to those who have something different.
It is a confusing process and it seems like the instructions make it even more confusing than it needs to be AND many of the instructions seem discrepant....Sheesh!!.... so I am posting this in the hope that it helps.
If you have a Genie that is using Intellicode 2 remotes (green light when you press the remote), the weird thing is that even though your opener is using Intellicode 2, you must switch one of the buttons on a remote to Intellicode 1 (red light when you press the button) to "train" Homelink (Step 1). Instructions for this are easily found but basically you press and hold open button on remote until it is both green and red and then toggle it to red, or you can use already programmed button.
The even weirder and really confusing thing is that it doesn't matter which button that you use for this....the button that you use to train Homelink (Step 1 in MM1) does not need to be programmed to any opener.....even just an unused button and that is what they recommend. Any button that is transmitting in Intellcode 1 can be used to "train" Homelink.
For step 2, (synchronizing), you need to put your opener in the programming mode and you do need your remote to do this, (see instructions below) but throughout this whole process, a remote that is programmed to the opener is never used to program Homelink, just any button that has been put in Intellicode 1. Very strange.
I found these instructions from Homelink to be most accurate, used in conjunction with the Garage Door programing prompts in the MMI.
http://www.homelink.com/assets/inclu...ellicode2.html
Good luck!
Last edited by NorthernMI; 03-25-2018 at 02:02 PM.
#189
Success
Thanks all who figured this out. The instructions in the MMI system are bad.
I removed the fuse, turned on the car, programmed the remote, chose to synchronize, pressed the purple learn button, pressed the opener button twice and told the MMI that the door has moved even though I didn't see it move. That competed the programming and the system seems to work!
I removed the fuse, turned on the car, programmed the remote, chose to synchronize, pressed the purple learn button, pressed the opener button twice and told the MMI that the door has moved even though I didn't see it move. That competed the programming and the system seems to work!
#190
AudiWorld Senior Member
In my case it was Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) from the LED bulbs in the opener. The opener is fixed code Liftmaster installed around 2005. Replaced both LEDS with incandescent bulbs problem solved. My Bro-In-law had the same problem with CFLs. Audi Homelink is particularly sensitive. Neither of us had the problem with our Acuras. You may be able to use one LED or CFL but not both.