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Good news: the 3D printed adapter worked great. I can provide the stl file in case anyone needs it...it's not perfect but it works.
Bad news: 1- I was not impressed with the audio loudness and quality. I have the Audi Sound System. I am thinking of returning one pair and getting the parts express $6-$7 speaker instead to put on the front doors. It demands less wattage although it's a bit less efficient. Any thoughts if this could be a good move?
Bad news: 2- I bought 4 same-sized brackets, of course, they didn't fit the front doors. I am planning to print the front brackets as well but I have to decide about the speakers I'm gonna use before designing it.
please could you send me 3d print file on djordje730m@gmail.com (for adapter speaker in doors)
thanks !
Sorry for resurrecting this thread again, but I'm working on the rear doors of my non-B&O Q5 with essentially the same speakers, and I confused about why Audi used a 4.7uf capacitor on a 4 ohm tweeter. Wouldn't that make a high pass filter at around 8500Hz? Why would they cross the tweeter that high?
It's because the factory midrange rolls off at 8.5Khz and has no filter on it.
On another note, after buying 4 ohm mid-woofers (Hertz C165 L) for my front doors, I took my door panels off to discover that the woofers in my Q5 are labeled as 2 ohms, not 4 ohms. Ugh! So my front speakers are actually 2 ohm woofers and 8 ohm tweeters with the 4 ohm center. I checked the rear doors and they use 4 ohm woofers, so I guess I'll put the Hertz in my rear doors.. options for 2 ohm woofers for my front doors are pretty limited though. So annoying that Audi uses such a mashup of different speaker impedances! I'm assuming I could replace my 2 ohm woofers with 4 ohms, but they'd be much quieter than they should be?
What the heck? Check the impedance. My rear door woofers were labelled 2 ohm but they never dropped below 4 ohms on my impedance analyzer.
It's because the factory midrange rolls off at 8.5Khz and has no filter on it.
What the heck? Check the impedance. My rear door woofers were labelled 2 ohm but they never dropped below 4 ohms on my impedance analyzer.
@Bobby Kinstle you sure your rear woofer had a sticker with the impedance marked on it? I thought all the B9 cars no longer carried a sticker with those markings on them. That was a B8 feature.
I've looked up your rear woofer speaker images and there doesn't appear to be any ohm ratings on it.
The 2ohm front woofers is for a Q5 Audi Sound System car only.
Last edited by bruce_miranda; 08-23-2023 at 01:12 AM.
@Bobby Kinstle you sure your rear woofer had a sticker with the impedance marked on it? I thought all the B9 cars no longer carried a sticker with those markings on them. That was a B8 feature.
I've looked up your rear woofer speaker images and there doesn't appear to be any ohm ratings on it.
The 2ohm front woofers is for a Q5 Audi Sound System car only.
it wasn't a sticker. It was ink on the magnet under the sticker that had wattage and impedance.
So I've been playing around with what I want to put in my car. I have the A$$ system in my S5 sportback.
The door woofers are all 4ohm from what I've been reading. The predominant option here seems to be the Audison AP6.5P which are like $300/pair here
The Aurum Cantus AC165/50CK are 8 ohm. Would that work if I went with a higher impedance on the rest of the driver's as well, or would I have to drive the amp too much higher to get equivalent volume? These are a little over $250/pair right now.
The other option that is quite intriguing to me is what about the Kicker KSS670? It's a component system. So I could use the woofer and tweeter from the kit in the rear. And then the woofer up front from another kit and then do the FaitalPRO in all 3 dash locations. Then I'd use the 80uF capacitor up front like it looks like everyone is using. Then I could do a capacitor in the rear for the tweeter like everyone else is using or I could use the included thing from the kit that just gives you certain db gain options. I have no idea what to expect out of that, so I'd probably lean towards the simple capacitor for the rear as well. These are on sale right now for $212/kit.
Does this seem like a viable option? Will the 6.75" woofer fit without trimming a bunch of stuff like the 6.5" woofer will? Will this balance well and sound good or am I just dreaming? If this gets me 90% of the way to what I could get with the Audison woofers, it's probably worth it for me to save the extra $200.
Then what should I do about the subwoofer in the spare tire well? Are there good options for that location without having to add an amp, or is it just not worth it without doing an amp? I haven't seen much about the subwoofer options yet.
[QUOTE=JSP242;25897642]So I've been playing around with what I want to put in my car. I have the A$$ system in my S5 sportback.
The door woofers are all 4ohm from what I've been reading. The predominant option here seems to be the Audison AP6.5P which are like $300/pair here
The Aurum Cantus AC165/50CK are 8 ohm. Would that work if I went with a higher impedance on the rest of the driver's as well, or would I have to drive the amp too much higher to get equivalent volume? These are a little over $250/pair right now.
The factory door B&O speakers are 8 ohm that's why I used the 8ohm AC. Aurum cantus does make a dual voice coil version of the 7" woofer that you can wire for 4 ohm if you really want that woofer. https://www.parts-express.com/Aurum-...414?quantity=1
However I should note that the A$$ system uses 4 ohm front door woofers of which there are dozens of good choices. Just try to find one with an FS below 50hz and an SPL efficiency rating close to 90. This brand new ultra low distortion midwoofer is a great choice https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...Ohm?quantity=1 It has a strong natural roll off at 3Khz which makes the crossover really easy but you'll need a tweeter than performs well to 1500hz. I think the ND25 tweeter I normally suggest isn't the best fit here because it's a bit shouty at 3Khz.
The other option that is quite intriguing to me is what about the Kicker KSS670? It's a component system. So I could use the woofer and tweeter from the kit in the rear. And then the woofer up front from another kit and then do the FaitalPRO in all 3 dash locations. Then I'd use the 80uF capacitor up front like it looks like everyone is using. Then I could do a capacitor in the rear for the tweeter like everyone else is using or I could use the included thing from the kit that just gives you certain db gain options. I have no idea what to expect out of that, so I'd probably lean towards the simple capacitor for the rear as well. These are on sale right now for $212/kit.
Does this seem like a viable option? Will the 6.75" woofer fit without trimming a bunch of stuff like the 6.5" woofer will? Will this balance well and sound good or am I just dreaming? If this gets me 90% of the way to what I could get with the Audison woofers, it's probably worth it for me to save the extra $200.
The kicker system would work well but wiring the tweeter if it's not in the door may be a challenge. Also note that speakers designed for car audio usually have crazy bright tweeters to cut road noise. Our cars are pretty quiet by comparison so they can sound harsh and shouty. Really it's your own personal preference here and there are no "wrong" answers.
@JSP242
Then what should I do about the subwoofer in the spare tire well? Are there good options for that location without having to add an amp, or is it just not worth it without doing an amp? I haven't seen much about the subwoofer options yet.
I have a whole thread on that. The TLDR is that it's a modest upgrade at best and you will really need a proper boxed subwoofer or a power subwoofer to make it much better.
So I've been playing around with what I want to put in my car. I have the A$$ system in my S5 sportback.
The door woofers are all 4ohm from what I've been reading. The predominant option here seems to be the Audison AP6.5P which are like $300/pair here
The factory door B&O speakers are 8 ohm that's why I used the 8ohm AC. Aurum cantus does make a dual voice coil version of the 7" woofer that you can wire for 4 ohm if you really want that woofer. https://www.parts-express.com/Aurum-...414?quantity=1
However I should note that the A$$ system uses 4 ohm front door woofers of which there are dozens of good choices. Just try to find one with an FS below 50hz and an SPL efficiency rating close to 90. This brand new ultra low distortion midwoofer is a great choice https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...Ohm?quantity=1
The kicker system would work well but wiring the tweeter if it's not in the door may be a challenge. Also note that speakers designed for car audio usually have crazy bright tweeters to cut road noise. Our cars are pretty quiet by comparison so they can sound harsh and shouty. Really it's your own personal preference here and there are no "wrong" answers.
I have a whole thread on that. The TLDR is that it's a modest upgrade at best and you will really need a proper boxed subwoofer or a power subwoofer to make it much better.
Excellent feedback. A big part of looking at the kicker stuff was to help manage the cost a bit more. That Dayton woofer at $50 each is very appealing if the performance is there. I don't know this stuff we'll enough to look at the specs and know if it'll be a good fit or not. Sounds like you think that's a great option. So that's good enough for me.
With that would you use the 8 or 10 uF cap for the filter in the rear door? And is 80uF still appropriate for the front dash corner full ranges?
I think I saw the adapters for the rear door are SAVW651. That and the other ones that look similar seem to not be available where I've looked. But crutchfield says they are 1.511" tall (so 38.2mm). Is that the correct fitment? I assume I need to put some foam on the back between that and the door panel? And what about a foam ring between the front of the woofer and the door card? Is the door mount 4 fasteners at 90 degrees on an 8.5" bolt circle?
Then what about the front adapters? I thought I saw something that made it sound like 52mm height would be the target. Same fastener arrangement (4 even spaced @ 8.5")?
I'll probably just print some up.
Then I saw you link to sonic barrier in another thread somewhere. It doesn't show as available right now at parts express. Any other recommendations for that while I'm in there?
Ah. I missed the notes on the tweeter the first time around. Any recommendations then? I was looking at the ND25FN-4. No mounting flange so I can try and design and print one that uses the factory snap lock.
Ah. I missed the notes on the tweeter the first time around. Any recommendations then? I was looking at the ND25FN-4. No mounting flange so I can try and design and print one that uses the factory snap lock.
I saw a handful that have that shape. I was wondering if there would be depth/space for it with how much the dome sticks out. And do you know if the diameter of that will fit inside the retainer tabs on the door card? I was also a little concerned about how large of a diameter they are overall.
Then with the Dayton 180 woofer. Is that one that will fit inside the silicone baffle? I thought I saw someone else posting about a 180 not fitting.
08-21-2023, 03:13 AM
Stl file
I am planning to print the front brackets as well but I have to decide about the speakers I'm gonna use before designing it.
