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Please disregard what I have said about not being impressed with the Daytons. I guess I made a premature review based on the rear door installation. Now that I have them installed on all 4 doors, it is a night/day difference and I am very happy with the results.
Now I have only the Sub and the rear doors twitters stock from the Audi SS. Planning to try the 6-hole Pioneer to mount on the OEM subwoofer bracket for a cleaner installation and see how it performs without an amp. Any thoughts?
BTW, my rear deck still rattles even with "Dynamat" on both sides. Still couldn't find a permanent solution.
Please disregard what I have said about not being impressed with the Daytons. I guess I made a premature review based on the rear door installation. Now that I have them installed on all 4 doors, it is a night/day difference and I am very happy with the results.
Now I have only the Sub and the rear doors twitters stock from the Audi SS. Planning to try the 6-hole Pioneer to mount on the OEM subwoofer bracket for a cleaner installation and see how it performs without an amp. Any thoughts?
BTW, my rear deck still rattles even with "Dynamat" on both sides. Still couldn't find a permanent solution.
If you have the 10" sub, and go 4 ohm DVC, then you want a sub that's rated 87db SPL or higher. Otherwise it's output will be less than the factory sub. If you have the spare tire sub, then it drops to 85dB but it's hard to get good results from that sub at all.
If you have the 10" sub, and go 4 ohm DVC, then you want a sub that's rated 87db SPL or higher. Otherwise it's output will be less than the factory sub. If you have the spare tire sub, then it drops to 85dB but it's hard to get good results from that sub at all.
Great news! I installed a shallow mount subwoofer (JBL Club WS1000 89dB - from Amazon on sale for $89) using the original mounting bracket and the results were great. This Subwoofer has an impedance selector (2 or 4ohms), 2ohm sounded much better than 4.
I needed to bend part of the rear deck hole and also cut a piece of it. Didn't want or plan to do that but the car is now almost 5yo and it has to have some scar.
To my taste, the system is now very well balanced and has a great stage, so I won't add an amp to it. The clumsy OEM subwoofer was messing up everything, kind of jamming the Daytons.
The rattles from the rear deck are almost totally gone (added some extra padding), and I could increase the Bass control from the MMI. This made the Daytons increase a lot in performance.
How's the JBL handle very deep bass say to 30hz? It didn't model super well down there in simulation but simulations aren't always perfect in free air. Curious to hear how it actually sounds.
I’m conjuring up an old thread because I just got my 2019 s5 prestige and need a better sound system.
After much success and lots of failures, I’m pretty much done with the sub and the center mid.
Granted, I was to zealous, and ordered way too many parts that I didn’t need. However, In the end @Bruce _Miranda has been super helpful and took the time in helping me find the right solutions.
But I’ve come to stand still on the door mid woofer. From the forum, it’s suggested that Aurum Cantus 6.5 c2c have been renowned for this situation. BUT, they’re unbelievably hard to find. The next option is the Ck (not C2C) which is more available, less expensive, and has almost the same specs as the C2c. There are even websites that advertised them as in the same.
So, has anyone had the experience of using the cks and what did you think?
In a car environment you aren't going to be able to tell the difference between a AC165 50C2C or the AC165 50CK. Infact if you listen to your music at a reasonable level and never at prolonged deafening levels then the normal AC165 will do absolutely fine too.
How's the JBL handle very deep bass say to 30hz? It didn't model super well down there in simulation but simulations aren't always perfect in free air. Curious to hear how it actually sounds.
Not really well at <~30hz to be honest. But I think I had set my expectations fairly well for a stock amp and an open mounted SW. I can still say for sure that I am very pleased with the final result delivered. Planning next to add the SW control to the MMI. Need to learn how to code or pay $100.
Question on my 2014 S5 Cabriolet, now that I have the outer dash and door tweeters done, should I do the two rear since I am doing the front doors?
You dont need to but you should consider it. The fader control allows you to get some nice rear fill in the car and in that case, you should have that sound coming out through some better speakers and tweeters.
The rear door tweeters are quite a standard size but they have a unique twist locking mechanism to secure them to the door card.
They are 4ohm drivers with a 4.7uf capacitor installed.
Sorry for resurrecting this thread again, but I'm working on the rear doors of my non-B&O Q5 with essentially the same speakers, and I confused about why Audi used a 4.7uf capacitor on a 4 ohm tweeter. Wouldn't that make a high pass filter at around 8500Hz? Why would they cross the tweeter that high?
On another note, after buying 4 ohm mid-woofers (Hertz C165 L) for my front doors, I took my door panels off to discover that the woofers in my Q5 are labeled as 2 ohms, not 4 ohms. Ugh! So my front speakers are actually 2 ohm woofers and 8 ohm tweeters with the 4 ohm center. I checked the rear doors and they use 4 ohm woofers, so I guess I'll put the Hertz in my rear doors.. options for 2 ohm woofers for my front doors are pretty limited though. So annoying that Audi uses such a mashup of different speaker impedances! I'm assuming I could replace my 2 ohm woofers with 4 ohms, but they'd be much quieter than they should be?
02-07-2022, 03:50 PM
