Tires and how it relates to performance?
07-17-2018, 01:57 PM
#11
Just ordered them online right now (Michelin Pilot Sport 4s). Can't wait to switch them out!
The CSC6 is an extremely high performance tire, I believe it’s also OEM for the R8. There are few DOT legal tires that perform higher, honestly. You are probably noticing slippage because they are only designed to last 10,000-12,000 miles and some people find they need to replace them at as low as 8,000.
At 18k you are almost certainly well beyond their usable life, so much so that I’d bet you are at imminent risk for a blowout or other catastrophic failure especially if you are launching the car or otherwise putting it through extreme stresses. I would encourage you to replace them today.
The CSC6 is an extremely high performance tire, I believe it’s also OEM for the R8. There are few DOT legal tires that perform higher, honestly. You are probably noticing slippage because they are only designed to last 10,000-12,000 miles and some people find they need to replace them at as low as 8,000.
At 18k you are almost certainly well beyond their usable life, so much so that I’d bet you are at imminent risk for a blowout or other catastrophic failure especially if you are launching the car or otherwise putting it through extreme stresses. I would encourage you to replace them today.
07-17-2018, 02:14 PM
#12
To decrease your times, also pay attention to what size and part # tire you use. I'm planning on going with the Pilot Sport 4S after doing some research.
Tires of the same size can vary by 1-3 lbs from one manuf. to another, and even the same brand/line tire can vary from one part # to another.......
EXAMPLE: Mich Pilot Sport 4S #50352 in 275/30R20 = 25.93 lbs VS Mich Pilot Sport 4S #27459 in 275/30R20 = 26.65 lbs
I read somewhere that 1 pound of unsprung weight saved in tire/wheel = 10 lbs of shaved static weight(riding on the springs)
Tires of the same size can vary by 1-3 lbs from one manuf. to another, and even the same brand/line tire can vary from one part # to another.......
EXAMPLE: Mich Pilot Sport 4S #50352 in 275/30R20 = 25.93 lbs VS Mich Pilot Sport 4S #27459 in 275/30R20 = 26.65 lbs
I read somewhere that 1 pound of unsprung weight saved in tire/wheel = 10 lbs of shaved static weight(riding on the springs)
07-17-2018, 02:23 PM
#13
To decrease your times, also pay attention to what size and part # tire you use. I'm planning on going with the Pilot Sport 4S after doing some research.
Tires of the same size can vary by 1-3 lbs from one manuf. to another, and even the same brand/line tire can vary from one part # to another.......
EXAMPLE: Mich Pilot Sport 4S #50352 in 275/30R20 = 25.93 lbs VS Mich Pilot Sport 4S #27459 in 275/30R20 = 26.65 lbs
I read somewhere that 1 pound of unsprung weight saved in tire/wheel = 10 lbs of shaved static weight(riding on the springs)
Tires of the same size can vary by 1-3 lbs from one manuf. to another, and even the same brand/line tire can vary from one part # to another.......
EXAMPLE: Mich Pilot Sport 4S #50352 in 275/30R20 = 25.93 lbs VS Mich Pilot Sport 4S #27459 in 275/30R20 = 26.65 lbs
I read somewhere that 1 pound of unsprung weight saved in tire/wheel = 10 lbs of shaved static weight(riding on the springs)
I thankfully ended up purchasing the tires with the lightest weight.
Thanks!
07-17-2018, 03:52 PM
#14
AudiWorld Super User
That's actually largely a myth. There is no fixed ratio of unsrpung to sprung weight and is generally misconstrued. What has a negative impact is rotational weight as more rotational weight takes more effort to speed up and slow down and change direction. In particular rotational weight that is farthest away from the hub, so your point is valid. The tire is the farthest away from the hub, so reducing weight of the tire reduces the rotational weight that has the most negative impact, but honestly, most people won't feel 3 lbs more or less.
07-17-2018, 07:59 PM
#15
That's actually largely a myth. There is no fixed ratio of unsrpung to sprung weight and is generally misconstrued. What has a negative impact is rotational weight as more rotational weight takes more effort to speed up and slow down and change direction. In particular rotational weight that is farthest away from the hub, so your point is valid. The tire is the farthest away from the hub, so reducing weight of the tire reduces the rotational weight that has the most negative impact, but honestly, most people won't feel 3 lbs more or less.
07-18-2018, 09:25 AM
#16
I'm planning to install my new Michelin Pilot 4s tires tomorrow! Would anyone happen to know what I can do with my existing ContiSport Contact 6's? Do you think I can sell them for a very minimal price? Thank you!
07-18-2018, 10:00 AM
#17
Having said that you need new tires -- what is the frequency with which you plan to perform such feats of accelerative daring do? Are you "one and done?" Or is this something you plan to do perhaps monthly? Where do you do this?
You don't have to answer of course, if you don't want, but how you answer will certainly help you figure out what tire to buy. If you live where MAX performance summer tires make sense, well, that's one bit of info that might suggest you go for the best of the best performance even if it means sacrificing some tread life (wear), ride quality, and noise. Of course, factored in would have to be how often you need/want to go for a full-bore 0-60MPH romp. If you're looking for one and done, you might be fine with UHP tires that might return a bit longer tread wear. If you need to make these runs with some regularity and frequency, well, you might be OK with super sticky, super short-lived shoes.
Do you have any budgetary restrictions? In other words, could you spring for $1,200 worth of tires every three or four months without much visible pain? Or would it gall you to have to replace your tires even every 12 months?
Would you be willing to spring for another set of wheels with super sticky tires on them and swap your wheels out when you needed to "eat my rubber and burn my dust" (Chevy Chase, "Christmas Vacation")?
Do you believe in an all-wheel alignment everytime you change out your tires? What about a road force balance? What about 500 pounds of coal? (uh, wrong movie).
Seriously, if you've got the time, we've got the beer -- and we can help you pick new tires every 15 minutes if you can afford it.
Step ONE -- get new tires, that's for sure.
Get back to the forum here regarding other characteristics we need to consider and I'm positive you've come to the right place for suggestions.
Drive it like you live.
Last edited by markcincinnati; 07-18-2018 at 10:02 AM.
07-18-2018, 10:38 AM
#18
@ 18,000 miles these tires are done. Indeed, they could've been done for 6,000 miles. They have certainly been done for at least 3,000 miles.
Having said that you need new tires -- what is the frequency with which you plan to perform such feats of accelerative daring do? Are you "one and done?" Or is this something you plan to do perhaps monthly? Where do you do this?
You don't have to answer of course, if you don't want, but how you answer will certainly help you figure out what tire to buy. If you live where MAX performance summer tires make sense, well, that's one bit of info that might suggest you go for the best of the best performance even if it means sacrificing some tread life (wear), ride quality, and noise. Of course, factored in would have to be how often you need/want to go for a full-bore 0-60MPH romp. If you're looking for one and done, you might be fine with UHP tires that might return a bit longer tread wear. If you need to make these runs with some regularity and frequency, well, you might be OK with super sticky, super short-lived shoes.
Do you have any budgetary restrictions? In other words, could you spring for $1,200 worth of tires every three or four months without much visible pain? Or would it gall you to have to replace your tires even every 12 months?
Would you be willing to spring for another set of wheels with super sticky tires on them and swap your wheels out when you needed to "eat my rubber and burn my dust" (Chevy Chase, "Christmas Vacation")?
Do you believe in an all-wheel alignment everytime you change out your tires? What about a road force balance? What about 500 pounds of coal? (uh, wrong movie).
Seriously, if you've got the time, we've got the beer -- and we can help you pick new tires every 15 minutes if you can afford it.
Step ONE -- get new tires, that's for sure.
Get back to the forum here regarding other characteristics we need to consider and I'm positive you've come to the right place for suggestions.
Drive it like you live.
Having said that you need new tires -- what is the frequency with which you plan to perform such feats of accelerative daring do? Are you "one and done?" Or is this something you plan to do perhaps monthly? Where do you do this?
You don't have to answer of course, if you don't want, but how you answer will certainly help you figure out what tire to buy. If you live where MAX performance summer tires make sense, well, that's one bit of info that might suggest you go for the best of the best performance even if it means sacrificing some tread life (wear), ride quality, and noise. Of course, factored in would have to be how often you need/want to go for a full-bore 0-60MPH romp. If you're looking for one and done, you might be fine with UHP tires that might return a bit longer tread wear. If you need to make these runs with some regularity and frequency, well, you might be OK with super sticky, super short-lived shoes.
Do you have any budgetary restrictions? In other words, could you spring for $1,200 worth of tires every three or four months without much visible pain? Or would it gall you to have to replace your tires even every 12 months?
Would you be willing to spring for another set of wheels with super sticky tires on them and swap your wheels out when you needed to "eat my rubber and burn my dust" (Chevy Chase, "Christmas Vacation")?
Do you believe in an all-wheel alignment everytime you change out your tires? What about a road force balance? What about 500 pounds of coal? (uh, wrong movie).
Seriously, if you've got the time, we've got the beer -- and we can help you pick new tires every 15 minutes if you can afford it.
Step ONE -- get new tires, that's for sure.
Get back to the forum here regarding other characteristics we need to consider and I'm positive you've come to the right place for suggestions.
Drive it like you live.
07-18-2018, 11:52 AM
#19
AudiWorld Senior Member
Removal + recycling/disposal of your old tires is almost always included in the installation fee for your new ones. Your installer will deal with them. While CSC6s with 18K on them are beyond done and worth nothing, if they did have value e.g. they were almost-brand-new but you just didn't like them or were switching to a different wheel size then yes, they can be resold. Craigslist is a common place to do that, or sometimes your wheel & tire shop will do a buyback if you are buying a different wheel and tire package, providing they are also in the used tire biz and think they can turn around and sell themselves. The shop does have to make a profit for that to make sense though, so you will not get very much: as a general rule of thumb tires and wheels lose 50% of their value the day they are mounted, and continue to depreciate from there based on condition or tread life.
