stupidrobothead

Hi all,
a while back a posted a suggestion as to how to get a Concert II working in a non-CAN car. Just wanted to let everyone know that it actually works! If anyone wants details let me know and I will post them.


dave<ul><li><a href="http://www.tvwiz.net/navigation/programming.html">http://www.tvwiz.net/navigation/programming.html</a</li></ul>

stupidrobothead

Hi Jeff,
I figured that you would be interested ;-). Anyhow, here is how I did it.

Note 1: the wiring harness bellow is completely optional but I am engineer (so **** by nature), so I did it this way.

Note 2: all of this is based on a car with out the factory NAV system, if you have the factory NAV system then it changes slightly (not a lot) in the fact that you do not have to remove the dash cluster as stated below. You would just have tap into the CAN-H/CAN-L lines at the NAV control unit (or the dash cluster if you like).

Note 3: Using a VAG tool, make sure you have software version D26 or later on your dash cluster. If you don't I do not think this will work.

1. Got a Concert II radio (which was harder then it seemed), I found a salvage company, Al's Auto Wrecking (619) 992-1670 )that will sell them for right around $200.00. Make sure that they send you the connectors with the radio.

2. Found an Old (non-working) Concert I on eBay and removed the female portion of the connectors.

3. Dismantled the connectors (from step 1), using a turkey skewer and a lot of swearing, and put new pins/leads into it.

4. Soldiered the connectors (from step 1) to the female block (from step 2) making a custom wiring harness. When I did this, I broke the CAN-H &amp; CAN-L lines (Coming out of the Concert II) out to bare wire, to be used later.

Note: like I said above, I am **** by nature so I made the above harness to pretty much simply break the CAN-H/CAN-L wires out without having to modify any of the Cars existing wiring. If you wanted you could modify (cut) the plug 1 on the radio and splice into the wires.

6. Remove the dash cluster

7. Disconnect the Grey connector from the back of the dash cluster by lifting the red handle on the connector. This will literally lift the connector off of the dash cluster.

8. Take apart the connector by first sliding the Red end cap off and then (gently) pulling out the white interior connector (when I get my friends digital camera I can take some pictures of this stuff). If you are wondering, the grey part of the connector is a sleeve that slides over the actual connector. IT comes apart very easily so don't force anything.

7. Install the CAN-H line (from the radio) into pin 5 of the grey connector. The pins are already there and are self tapping; all you have to do is push the wire into the pin and make sure that it cuts the wire's shielding.

8. Install the CAN-L line (from the radio) into pin 6 of the grey connector. The pins are already there and are self tapping; all you have to do is push the wire into the pin and make sure that it cuts the wire's shielding.

9. Put your dash back together

10. Using a VAG tool (or VAGcomm) and follow the enclosed URL of how to set the adaptation channel for the instrument cluster.

Now your car should be converted over to CAN (instead of using the Audi 3-wb ) so things like the power control via ignition, illumination, center display should work.

dave<ul><li><a href="http://www.tvwiz.net/navigation/programming.html">http://www.tvwiz.net/navigation/programming.html</a</li></ul>

AZIMUTH

You have installed successfully a Concert II on your car because 2001 TT have can-bus instead, only isn't used for radio functions. You have just cabled Can-H and Can-L from instrument cluster and programmed by VAG your car.
This isn't the way to install Concert II on &lt;2001 Audi cars.
Best regards
AZIMUTH

stupidrobothead

I never said that it would work on all Audi's I just said that it was working on my MY01 TT.

dave

mdcooper

Hi,

I have fixed the problem with the illumination by soldering a separate wire to pin 6 of the black connector, but would now like to know which pin operates the power to go on and off with the ignition. It is a little annoying that when you pull the key out the radio still remains on.

Would it be possible to solder another wire from the pins inside the unit or do i have to bridge something? Photos might help!!!

Paul TTINGER

HI Jeff , the link is not working . Have you tried this before ? easy installation ?