audesign

I put new Rotors and Pads on 15K and 1.5 yrs ago. ( Did it through very recommended and reputable shop. ) They've squeaked since day one, perhaps the Jurid pads. But recently I've noticed a strong vibration when you brake from higher speeds, especially on the freeway. I've also begun noticing the grab/vibrate at low speeds as well.

Should the rotors be warped already? What would cause this?

Scot W

Similar comments have been posted from the guys at Matrix, Zeckhausen, etc. but this article is easier to find.<ul><li><a href="http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml">The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System</a></li></ul>

Just Me

sanding pad - like 60 grit.

Crude, but effective.

G

EBG 18T [Eric]

a short drive and a couple stops w/ cold hawk blues will shave off any old brake material on the rotors. It works great. I now put the hawk blues in for a short drive before i swap and re-bed any new pads.

perfect for swaping between my street and track pads. Shortens the rotor life, but oh well. :-)

Just Me

I really like that idea. So oddball its brilliant.

RussB

This procedure requires time and just a few simple tools.

I use a spare set of lug bolts and a couple wheel spacers to temporarily clamp the rotor to the hub while measuring runout.

I use a Whiteout marker pen to mark the rotor and hub. When starting, I number each lugbolt hole (from 1 thru 5) on the rotor hat, and mark the spot that happens to be adjacent to lugbolt hole 1 on the hub with a thick line.

It's simple and effective. But it does take time.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/v8/msgs/75169.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/v8/msgs/75169.phtml</a</li></ul>

RussB

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/v8/msgs/107350.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/v8/msgs/107350.phtml</a</li></ul>

BernieBenz

and suggestions.
1. Before removing a rotor from its hub mark their relative orientation. I use permanent center punch marks. Clean and lightly grease the interface surfaces to prevent water intrusion.

2. This technique Is justified for gross rotor runout conditions. Any rotor within the factory runout tolerance of 0.002TIR will wear true before the next pad change. Why rotors must always be mated to their hubs for life.

3. Old rotors are superior to new because rotors tend to wear true and the unworn annular rings either side of the active surfaces form an effective 4 wheel, 8 surface passive wear sensing system. Minimum thickness specs are a mfg. CYA, designed to sell rotor replacements.

4. That said, IME most brake squeal is not a result of excessive rotor runout but by insufficient caliper piston retraction. The result of an improperly maintained, sludged up hydraulic system, requiring caliper overhaul. Also a zero cost but dirty DIY process, inasmuch as all rubber parts are reusable.