Engine gurus, need help analyzing timing corrections from knock sensor system...
#1
Engine gurus, need help analyzing timing corrections from knock sensor system...
Hi,
I read an article couple days ago regarding APR and GIAC chip programs and how they cause detonation in the engine.
After reading the article, I decided to see if my car, 1.8Tm FWD APR has any problems.
I asked around and DK told me to check data block 20 with a VAG-TOOL to see if there were any timing corrections as a result of the data the car collected from the knock sensors.
Anyway, there was data, and it is as follows:
Cylinder 1: 6.8 degrees
Cylinder 2: 8.6 degrees
Cylinder 3: 2.3 degrees
Cylinder 4: 0.0 degrees
These are approximate peak values.
DK sent me an Audi Service Manual page, and it says under 10 degrees is within specified values.
But still, do I have to worry about anything? Is my engine experiencing minor knocking or detonation or something? What is the difference between knocking and detonating anyway?
I would really appreciate any help or experience or suggestions or comments.
Is there any way to fix my engine so there are no timing corrections?
Do I even need to worry?
As you can probably tell, I know close to nothing on this subject, and that's why I'm seeking the advice of everyone.
Thanks!!!
I read an article couple days ago regarding APR and GIAC chip programs and how they cause detonation in the engine.
After reading the article, I decided to see if my car, 1.8Tm FWD APR has any problems.
I asked around and DK told me to check data block 20 with a VAG-TOOL to see if there were any timing corrections as a result of the data the car collected from the knock sensors.
Anyway, there was data, and it is as follows:
Cylinder 1: 6.8 degrees
Cylinder 2: 8.6 degrees
Cylinder 3: 2.3 degrees
Cylinder 4: 0.0 degrees
These are approximate peak values.
DK sent me an Audi Service Manual page, and it says under 10 degrees is within specified values.
But still, do I have to worry about anything? Is my engine experiencing minor knocking or detonation or something? What is the difference between knocking and detonating anyway?
I would really appreciate any help or experience or suggestions or comments.
Is there any way to fix my engine so there are no timing corrections?
Do I even need to worry?
As you can probably tell, I know close to nothing on this subject, and that's why I'm seeking the advice of everyone.
Thanks!!!
#2
Looks fine to me...I saw more retard on pump fuel during the summer
if I'd drop into 5th at too low a speed say 50 and floor it...this was with a Neuspeed K04 kit...I saw things around 12 degrees peak, the car never had a problem. With higher octane fuel this would stay below 5 most of the time.
Regards,
James R.
2001 A4 1.8TQMSXP (AWE Stainless Steel Lines, Oettinger Pedal Set + Dead, Oettinger RE's 17x8, Yoko AVS Sports 225/45/R17, European Xenon Housings, Bailey BPV & RS4 Grill)
Regards,
James R.
2001 A4 1.8TQMSXP (AWE Stainless Steel Lines, Oettinger Pedal Set + Dead, Oettinger RE's 17x8, Yoko AVS Sports 225/45/R17, European Xenon Housings, Bailey BPV & RS4 Grill)
#3
Wait, do you mean with higher octane fuel, you saw 12, and lower octane 5?
Now how do I cheat my car into having more advanced timing, I mean another 5 or so degrees? Sometimes I wished I have a distributor. Still trying to figure this out
#4
The max timing advance is controlled by the ECU...
you can't adjust this on your own...but what you can do is get the max timing that is set in the program buy using the best fuel you can find...the higher the octane the more timing you can run.
Regards,
James R.
2001 A4 1.8TQMSXP (Brakes After Feb 10th, AWE Stainless Steel Lines, Oettinger Pedal Set + Dead, Oettinger RE's 17x8, Yoko AVS Sports 225/45/R17, European Xenon Housings, Bailey BPV & RS4 Grill)
Regards,
James R.
2001 A4 1.8TQMSXP (Brakes After Feb 10th, AWE Stainless Steel Lines, Oettinger Pedal Set + Dead, Oettinger RE's 17x8, Yoko AVS Sports 225/45/R17, European Xenon Housings, Bailey BPV & RS4 Grill)
#5
Hence your point is higher fuel 12, lower 5 right? Not the other way around as you posted
Yah, I wished I had distributors still. I can easily extract about 5% more power with my Mitsu and Mazda with this simple mod
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