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Old 07-25-2016, 09:02 AM
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2012 Audi Q5 Front Brake Job

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Old 09-24-2013, 07:13 AM   #1
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Default 2012 Audi Q5 Front Brake Job

I am looking to change out my brake pads because the dealer says I need to. I'm at 25K miles and they are saying the sensors, rotors and brake pads need replacing and want to charge 714 plus tax. I've had my uncle look at it and we can't figure out what this socket is or what tool is used to remove it so he can do the brake job himself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We are only going to be doing the pads since the rotors still are good. Has anyone done this and if so was it an easy process?
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:21 AM   #2
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Wait, if the sensor was tripped then I think you would've seen it yourself and the dealer wouldn't have to tell you the pads need to be replaced. If the sensor was not tripped and you plan on doing this yourself, then you can re-use the old sensor. If I were replacing the pads myself I would just wait until the sensor was tripped so I can get maximum life out of the pads and then replace the sensor along with the pads.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:21 AM   #3
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You don't need to remove the pictured bolt when changing the pads.
Just remove the clip pictured and the two caliper bolts located on the inside of the caliper.

I agree with the previous post that states you should wait until the sensor is tripped before replacing the pads. I also suggest you replace pads, rotors, and caliper bolts all at the same time.
The rotors are so thin that you'll probably end up with vibration if you try to get a 2nd full pad use out of them.

Last edited by MonzaAvant; 09-24-2013 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:54 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by MonzaAvant View Post
I agree with the previous post that states you should wait until the sensor is tripped before replacing the pads.
I am curious, does anyone ever saw the brake wear warning?

I waited on my 2010 Q5 for it to turned on and never saw it. Then my dealer and another garage told me that there was only 2mm left on my pads when I decided to changed them (at around 85 000Km).

Later I used a vag-com to do some config change on my car and noticed that the brake wear warning was turned off. The only one who played with my car at that time was the dealer... I can't figure out why it was turned off.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:20 AM   #5
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The wear sensor comes with the OEM brake pads, and I believe you can also buy just the sensor for like $20. I agree with the looks of your rotors to change both the pad and the rotor.

Remove the 2 bolts in the back of the caliper (do not remove those front ones or you'll need new calipers). Then remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper bracket on (note you need new bolts for this one, the pads only come with new bolts for the caliper). Then its just a torx in the middle of the rotor and off it comes (could be rusted to hub so it may be hard to get off).

Also, if your rotor is worn down too much, you'll actually have to pry the pads back to compress the piston a bit otherwise you will not be able to get the caliper off the rotor. You do not need any lube or disc brake quiet - the pads come with it already on them (its sort of like double sided tape)

FYI, if you ever plan to do the rear brakes yourself, get VCDS - you need it to open the parking brake so you can push the caliper piston back. You can only open and close the parking brake with VCDS when everything is put together. Pushing the piston back without doing this will damage the parking brake and maybe the caliper too.

Last edited by Telate; 09-24-2013 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:18 PM   #6
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My sensor went on at about 25,000 miles. I changed the front pads with OEM TRW manufactured. Did not replace rotors or calipers. At 44,000 miles with no problems. FWIW.

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Old 09-24-2013, 12:21 PM   #7
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That 7-star fastener in the photo is part of the carrier and remains tight for a pad change. All you have to do is pry off the metal clip (also in the photo) and unscrew the (2) 13mm bolts on the backside of each caliper. I just did this (again) last month but I also did another Audi in the same week so sorry if I might have them confused...

Regarding the calipers. Don't guess on thickness, mic them (as in micrometer). A caliper will not work because all you will measure is the unworn outer rim. Replacements are about $100 each at genuineaudiparts.com

You can choose among dozens of pads of all types and you will be very hard-pressed to find any nearly as expensive as Audis. Or any that dust as much either!

I run Centric Posi Quiet semi-metallic pads on all three Audis. They are nearly dustless and about as kind to rotors as you'll ever find. And they're dirt cheap (Zeckhausen Racing).. Downsides are poor initial bit when soaked (as in a car wash), and slightly higher pedal pressure.


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Old 09-24-2013, 01:24 PM   #8
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I replaced the brake pads, but not disk brake
Disc I change every second time
Attachment in PDF for to change discs and pads

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File Type: pdf brake.pdf (1.52 MB, 720 views)
File Type: pdf disc.pdf (705.3 KB, 464 views)
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:16 PM   #9
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Thank you so so much. This helped me tremendously. My sensor did go off so that's why I took it into the dealer. Everyone tells me that the rotors look good and not to worry about replacing those just the pads. Do I also need to get another sensor or does it come on the brake pads already? What about a speed sensor?
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:00 PM   #10
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On the Centric Posi pads, you just move the sensor from the old pads to the new pads. Speed sensor is not an issue. The kit also comes with factory-type anti-squeal shims. I always use some anti-squeal compound as well - available at all auto parts stores.

Now for some of the finer points of pad changes.

Suck out some fluid from the reservoir to make room for the new pads. Better yet, suck it all out and do a fluid change using a different color fluid so you can see the change, such as ATE Super Blue DOT 4. Flush off fluid spills with copious amounts of clean water. The esters in brake fluid lift paint very effectively.

Leave the old pads loaded in the caliper to make prying them all the open easier (forcing the piston all the way in)

If you're doing the rears, you need a VAG-COM to electronically retract the pistons.

Once it''s all back together, DON'T PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL FULL STROKE. That's a good way to nick the soft piston seal on rough areas of the master cylinder that never see action with your old contaminated fluid. Do short strokes instead. You don't want to have to end up replacing the master cylinder, right? They're hundreds of dollars, never a picnic to change out, and provide no performance improvement, other than the pedal doesn't fall anymore.

Finally, perhaps most important, follow bedding instructions here:


Last edited by ELEVENS; 09-24-2013 at 03:10 PM.
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