DIY: 3.2 OIl Change
#13
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I get mine from germanautoparts.com. Could also go through ECStuning.com, genuineaudiparts.com or any of the other OEM retailers.
Technically, they are supposed to honor the warranty, in reality they are a multinational corporation with all kinds of lawyers looking out for their interests, you never know when you may run into a service manager who wants to be a total dick. If you do decide to do it yourself, throughly document it, including saving all receipts, the barcode/sku from the filter box, as well as noting date, mileage, and quantity of oil used. Also make sure you use vw/audi 502 approved oil.
Technically, they are supposed to honor the warranty, in reality they are a multinational corporation with all kinds of lawyers looking out for their interests, you never know when you may run into a service manager who wants to be a total dick. If you do decide to do it yourself, throughly document it, including saving all receipts, the barcode/sku from the filter box, as well as noting date, mileage, and quantity of oil used. Also make sure you use vw/audi 502 approved oil.
#14
Tool Update
This will be pretty brief, as most who will tackle this themselves most likely won't need any assistance, but thought it may be useful for someone who needs a bit of extra confidence before deciding to do it themselves.
1. Jackstand/ramp safety you know the drill.
2. Remove the splash shield by undoing all the screws around the perimeter. The ones up front are torx 20's, the ones on the sides and back are fast-drive types, they have a phillips head but I find it easier to just use a big slotted driver. You do not need to remove the line of torx screws a couple inches behind the front edge, they are for the stiffener for the shield.
3. The oil plug needs a 6mm hex driver/allen wrench. Remove it and drain the oil. My drain plug was a T45 Torx bit and dont forget to change the drain plug gasket. Its an M14 aluminum crush washer
4. While the oil is draining move to the top of the engine. Remove the 3.2 v6 cover at the top of the engine (it just pulls off) The oil filter housing is underneath that cover to the right. Use whatever you've got to unscrew the filter housing cap, it's not on very tight so a big crescent wrench (or probably even a strap wrench) will do the job if you don't have a socket big enough. After about half a turn you will need to lift a plastic protrusion on the housing slightly so that a ridge on the cap will be able to pass under it (it's basically like a child proof medicine cap), you can then unscrew the cap entirely.
5 Pull the old filter out of the cap you just removed. Inside about half way down there is an o-ring that needs to be replaced (and should come with the new filter). The o-ring has a tab on it that you can grab with a pair of needlenose pliers.
6 The other, smaller, seal to be replaced is on the filter housing.
7 When reinstalling the cap (with the new filter on it) you need to push down before the threads will catch as there is a spring plate at the bottom of the housing. Do not overtighten the cap or you risk breaking the threads. The torque specs are right on it.
8 Reinstall the drain plug, do not over torque it, it does not need to be super tight.
9 You can then refill the oil. Capacity is 6.6qts. If you are within your warranty and/or want to use vw502 approved oil commonly available ones are mobil 1 0w40 and castrol syntec 5w40 (both full synthetic).
1. Jackstand/ramp safety you know the drill.
2. Remove the splash shield by undoing all the screws around the perimeter. The ones up front are torx 20's, the ones on the sides and back are fast-drive types, they have a phillips head but I find it easier to just use a big slotted driver. You do not need to remove the line of torx screws a couple inches behind the front edge, they are for the stiffener for the shield.
3. The oil plug needs a 6mm hex driver/allen wrench. Remove it and drain the oil. My drain plug was a T45 Torx bit and dont forget to change the drain plug gasket. Its an M14 aluminum crush washer
4. While the oil is draining move to the top of the engine. Remove the 3.2 v6 cover at the top of the engine (it just pulls off) The oil filter housing is underneath that cover to the right. Use whatever you've got to unscrew the filter housing cap, it's not on very tight so a big crescent wrench (or probably even a strap wrench) will do the job if you don't have a socket big enough. After about half a turn you will need to lift a plastic protrusion on the housing slightly so that a ridge on the cap will be able to pass under it (it's basically like a child proof medicine cap), you can then unscrew the cap entirely.
5 Pull the old filter out of the cap you just removed. Inside about half way down there is an o-ring that needs to be replaced (and should come with the new filter). The o-ring has a tab on it that you can grab with a pair of needlenose pliers.
6 The other, smaller, seal to be replaced is on the filter housing.
7 When reinstalling the cap (with the new filter on it) you need to push down before the threads will catch as there is a spring plate at the bottom of the housing. Do not overtighten the cap or you risk breaking the threads. The torque specs are right on it.
8 Reinstall the drain plug, do not over torque it, it does not need to be super tight.
9 You can then refill the oil. Capacity is 6.6qts. If you are within your warranty and/or want to use vw502 approved oil commonly available ones are mobil 1 0w40 and castrol syntec 5w40 (both full synthetic).
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