Q5 Advice
12-10-2021, 10:14 AM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Q5 Advice
hi All,
I am thinking of buying my wife a used Q5. I have a 2011 A8 with the 4.2 which I love and the engine seems bulletproof. I am not as confident on the 3.0T. I don't know the issues or concerns about buying a used higher mileage car. realistically we would be looking for a car with 50-80K miles on it. I bought my A8 with 93K miles on it, and the damn thing has been an absolute treat 40K later.
Does the 3.0T have the same issues the 4.0T does with the oil filter potentially leading to blown turbos?
Anything specific I should look out for?
Thank in advance!
edit: I suppose I am also looking at a q7 as well
I am thinking of buying my wife a used Q5. I have a 2011 A8 with the 4.2 which I love and the engine seems bulletproof. I am not as confident on the 3.0T. I don't know the issues or concerns about buying a used higher mileage car. realistically we would be looking for a car with 50-80K miles on it. I bought my A8 with 93K miles on it, and the damn thing has been an absolute treat 40K later.
Does the 3.0T have the same issues the 4.0T does with the oil filter potentially leading to blown turbos?
Anything specific I should look out for?
Thank in advance!
edit: I suppose I am also looking at a q7 as well
Last edited by MVoorhees; 12-10-2021 at 10:31 AM.
12-11-2021, 04:22 AM
#2
AudiWorld Member
hi All,
I am thinking of buying my wife a used Q5. I have a 2011 A8 with the 4.2 which I love and the engine seems bulletproof. I am not as confident on the 3.0T. I don't know the issues or concerns about buying a used higher mileage car. realistically we would be looking for a car with 50-80K miles on it. I bought my A8 with 93K miles on it, and the damn thing has been an absolute treat 40K later.
Does the 3.0T have the same issues the 4.0T does with the oil filter potentially leading to blown turbos?
Anything specific I should look out for?
Thank in advance!
edit: I suppose I am also looking at a q7 as well
I am thinking of buying my wife a used Q5. I have a 2011 A8 with the 4.2 which I love and the engine seems bulletproof. I am not as confident on the 3.0T. I don't know the issues or concerns about buying a used higher mileage car. realistically we would be looking for a car with 50-80K miles on it. I bought my A8 with 93K miles on it, and the damn thing has been an absolute treat 40K later.
Does the 3.0T have the same issues the 4.0T does with the oil filter potentially leading to blown turbos?
Anything specific I should look out for?
Thank in advance!
edit: I suppose I am also looking at a q7 as well
The 3.0T is considered one of Audi's most reliable engines. No turbos to blow. The timing chain tensioners can get noisy, but unlike your 4.2 they rarely fail and don't warrant repairing. The startup rattle should only last for a second or so.
The other issues they typically have are water pumps, thermostats and the PCV (air/oil separator). Each costs about $1000 to replace but they give lots of warning before the car becomes inoperable, and they typically fail around 80k miles. Look for coolant leaks from the pump (the plastic housing cracks) and run a scan of the ECU (vcds, vagcom etc) to see if there's a 'soft code' for the PCV/AOS. That would indicate a potential issue ... but in my case I've had the soft-code for 30k miles and it uses no oil.
The ZF8 transmission is bulletproof but ZF recommends changing the fluid and filter every 65k or so (Audi says it's lifetime). That's an $800 job. Many of us like to do the three diff's at the same time. Other maintenance items are spark plugs and supercharger belt every 55k, brake fluid every two years and coolant 'whenever' (I don't remember).
Like all German cars, control arm bushings are good for about 80k before they deteriorate. Figure $1000 to have replaced.
There was a steering rack issue on pre 2014 models, IIRC.
Sunroof rattles and creaks can be annoying, some fixed with lube but often requiring a new frame ... $2500 ... so when you test drive keep it closed and listen for squeeks and rattles. If you hear something then pop the back of the roof open and if the noise stops you've identified a noisy sunroof.
EDIT: Avoid the 2.0T's. There might be some good ones out there, but oil consumption and piston ring issues makes it a crapshoot - things you can't detect on a test drive.
12-11-2021, 04:51 AM
#3
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
You're posting in the B8 forums so I'll assume you're asking about the supercharged 3.0, not the newer turbocharged one.
The 3.0T is considered one of Audi's most reliable engines. No turbos to blow. The timing chain tensioners can get noisy, but unlike your 4.2 they rarely fail and don't warrant repairing. The startup rattle should only last for a second or so.
The other issues they typically have are water pumps, thermostats and the PCV (air/oil separator). Each costs about $1000 to replace but they give lots of warning before the car becomes inoperable, and they typically fail around 80k miles. Look for coolant leaks from the pump (the plastic housing cracks) and run a scan of the ECU (vcds, vagcom etc) to see if there's a 'soft code' for the PCV/AOS. That would indicate a potential issue ... but in my case I've had the soft-code for 30k miles and it uses no oil.
The ZF8 transmission is bulletproof but ZF recommends changing the fluid and filter every 65k or so (Audi says it's lifetime). That's an $800 job. Many of us like to do the three diff's at the same time. Other maintenance items are spark plugs and supercharger belt every 55k, brake fluid every two years and coolant 'whenever' (I don't remember).
Like all German cars, control arm bushings are good for about 80k before they deteriorate. Figure $1000 to have replaced.
There was a steering rack issue on pre 2014 models, IIRC.
Sunroof rattles and creaks can be annoying, some fixed with lube but often requiring a new frame ... $2500 ... so when you test drive keep it closed and listen for squeeks and rattles. If you hear something then pop the back of the roof open and if the noise stops you've identified a noisy sunroof.
EDIT: Avoid the 2.0T's. There might be some good ones out there, but oil consumption and piston ring issues makes it a crapshoot - things you can't detect on a test drive.
The 3.0T is considered one of Audi's most reliable engines. No turbos to blow. The timing chain tensioners can get noisy, but unlike your 4.2 they rarely fail and don't warrant repairing. The startup rattle should only last for a second or so.
The other issues they typically have are water pumps, thermostats and the PCV (air/oil separator). Each costs about $1000 to replace but they give lots of warning before the car becomes inoperable, and they typically fail around 80k miles. Look for coolant leaks from the pump (the plastic housing cracks) and run a scan of the ECU (vcds, vagcom etc) to see if there's a 'soft code' for the PCV/AOS. That would indicate a potential issue ... but in my case I've had the soft-code for 30k miles and it uses no oil.
The ZF8 transmission is bulletproof but ZF recommends changing the fluid and filter every 65k or so (Audi says it's lifetime). That's an $800 job. Many of us like to do the three diff's at the same time. Other maintenance items are spark plugs and supercharger belt every 55k, brake fluid every two years and coolant 'whenever' (I don't remember).
Like all German cars, control arm bushings are good for about 80k before they deteriorate. Figure $1000 to have replaced.
There was a steering rack issue on pre 2014 models, IIRC.
Sunroof rattles and creaks can be annoying, some fixed with lube but often requiring a new frame ... $2500 ... so when you test drive keep it closed and listen for squeeks and rattles. If you hear something then pop the back of the roof open and if the noise stops you've identified a noisy sunroof.
EDIT: Avoid the 2.0T's. There might be some good ones out there, but oil consumption and piston ring issues makes it a crapshoot - things you can't detect on a test drive.
About the engine spec, when I am looking at listings lots of them say 3.0T in the title which led me to believe they were turbo charged. But now that you mention the supercharger thing, the description of the listing does say supercharged. Fair play! And yeah, we are looking 20133-2017 most likely!
Any if those repairs diy? I have replaced the pcv on my 4.2 no issue, spark plugs were the same, pretty straight forward. The noisy sun roof sounds ..... Fun.
The suspension makes sense, can do that myself more than likely, have done work on my current one. I have the full diagnostic tool for Audi so the fact those things give warning is super useful to know!
I appreciate your answer man, that k you very much, you gave me a few awesome things to look out for.
12-11-2021, 05:13 AM
#4
AudiWorld Member
The Q5 has lots of space to work around the sides and back of the engine. There aren't many reasons the drivetrain needs to be pulled. However, it's pretty tight in the front, where the water pump and thermostat are. These can be removed without pulling the supercharger but it is tight.
Plugs and belts are easy. Same with air and oil filters.
PCV requires removing the supercharger; I've not done it but I understand it's not hard, just takes time (and while in there, might as well address carbon buildup on the intake valves, and the water pump and thermostat).
Sunroof frame requires dismantling nearly the entire interior and many who've had it done complain about new noises they never had before. If someone made a carbon-fiber sunroof-delete kit, I bet it would sell well ;-)
ZF8 transmission filter and fluid change isn't mechanically difficult but there is a temperature-specific fill method that requires all four tire off the ground. The kit is about $250,
Oh yeah ... the 3.0T in the Q5 is identical to the one in the SQ5, the tune is the difference. A stage 1 tune will bring it from ~280hp to ~430hp. You could go beyond that with pulleys and other hardware upgrades but that increases the chances of the catalysts failing and those are difficult to replace.
Control arms kits run about $500-$800 (Lemforder or 034 or meyle etc) and you're right, they're not too bad to replace if you turn the steering rack properly so the bolts clear it.
Almost forgot, engine mounts may fail on these, that's a bigger job, need to support the engine from above while replacing them from below. Look for leaks, listen for clunking when shifting and look for excessive engine movement in the engine bay. But on a stock Q5 I don't think the failure rate is high.
12-11-2021, 02:55 PM
#5
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Yeah it's a wierd nomenclature, some even have '3.0T' badges. If you google far enough you'll see that 'turbo' can refer to any forced induction method but common usage implies exhaust-driven vs. belt-driven impellers. Not as confusing as Porsche models where they're all turbo but only the higher end models are called 'turbos'. Or BMW's where the last two digits used to imply displacement and then they changed it to not. Go figure.
They're all DIY, depends on your skills experience and tools! The prices I listed assume that you're paying for labor. If you're not then parts about 1/3 of that cost. Except maybe the sunroof.
The Q5 has lots of space to work around the sides and back of the engine. There aren't many reasons the drivetrain needs to be pulled. However, it's pretty tight in the front, where the water pump and thermostat are. These can be removed without pulling the supercharger but it is tight.
Plugs and belts are easy. Same with air and oil filters.
PCV requires removing the supercharger; I've not done it but I understand it's not hard, just takes time (and while in there, might as well address carbon buildup on the intake valves, and the water pump and thermostat).
Sunroof frame requires dismantling nearly the entire interior and many who've had it done complain about new noises they never had before. If someone made a carbon-fiber sunroof-delete kit, I bet it would sell well ;-)
ZF8 transmission filter and fluid change isn't mechanically difficult but there is a temperature-specific fill method that requires all four tire off the ground. The kit is about $250,
Oh yeah ... the 3.0T in the Q5 is identical to the one in the SQ5, the tune is the difference. A stage 1 tune will bring it from ~280hp to ~430hp. You could go beyond that with pulleys and other hardware upgrades but that increases the chances of the catalysts failing and those are difficult to replace.
Control arms kits run about $500-$800 (Lemforder or 034 or meyle etc) and you're right, they're not too bad to replace if you turn the steering rack properly so the bolts clear it.
Almost forgot, engine mounts may fail on these, that's a bigger job, need to support the engine from above while replacing them from below. Look for leaks, listen for clunking when shifting and look for excessive engine movement in the engine bay. But on a stock Q5 I don't think the failure rate is high.
They're all DIY, depends on your skills experience and tools! The prices I listed assume that you're paying for labor. If you're not then parts about 1/3 of that cost. Except maybe the sunroof.
The Q5 has lots of space to work around the sides and back of the engine. There aren't many reasons the drivetrain needs to be pulled. However, it's pretty tight in the front, where the water pump and thermostat are. These can be removed without pulling the supercharger but it is tight.
Plugs and belts are easy. Same with air and oil filters.
PCV requires removing the supercharger; I've not done it but I understand it's not hard, just takes time (and while in there, might as well address carbon buildup on the intake valves, and the water pump and thermostat).
Sunroof frame requires dismantling nearly the entire interior and many who've had it done complain about new noises they never had before. If someone made a carbon-fiber sunroof-delete kit, I bet it would sell well ;-)
ZF8 transmission filter and fluid change isn't mechanically difficult but there is a temperature-specific fill method that requires all four tire off the ground. The kit is about $250,
Oh yeah ... the 3.0T in the Q5 is identical to the one in the SQ5, the tune is the difference. A stage 1 tune will bring it from ~280hp to ~430hp. You could go beyond that with pulleys and other hardware upgrades but that increases the chances of the catalysts failing and those are difficult to replace.
Control arms kits run about $500-$800 (Lemforder or 034 or meyle etc) and you're right, they're not too bad to replace if you turn the steering rack properly so the bolts clear it.
Almost forgot, engine mounts may fail on these, that's a bigger job, need to support the engine from above while replacing them from below. Look for leaks, listen for clunking when shifting and look for excessive engine movement in the engine bay. But on a stock Q5 I don't think the failure rate is high.
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