JB4 on the SQ5
#21
Seems like most of the effort to install JB4 is the OBDII connector.
What is the JB4 OBDII connector used for? Is it necessary? is it always plugged in as you’re driving?
I have a Valentine 1 Savvy that’s connected to OBDII port at all times and don’t want to lose that functionality, if possible.
What is the JB4 OBDII connector used for? Is it necessary? is it always plugged in as you’re driving?
I have a Valentine 1 Savvy that’s connected to OBDII port at all times and don’t want to lose that functionality, if possible.
#22
@iceberg
i have seen obd ii splitters but have no idea how reliable those are.
#23
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Seems like most of the effort to install JB4 is the OBDII connector.
What is the JB4 OBDII connector used for? Is it necessary? is it always plugged in as you’re driving?
I have a Valentine 1 Savvy that’s connected to OBDII port at all times and don’t want to lose that functionality, if possible.
What is the JB4 OBDII connector used for? Is it necessary? is it always plugged in as you’re driving?
I have a Valentine 1 Savvy that’s connected to OBDII port at all times and don’t want to lose that functionality, if possible.
If you get an IAT fault, and it drops boost for a split second like George was describing, it would be more of a hiccup of power if the boost is dumped.
#24
Since the JB4 is out, I decided it was time to bit the bullet and pick one up. Install was pretty easy, takes a bit more time if you want to pretty it up. Install is pretty straight forward, but here is a couple of tips:
1) The connectors have a little colored "lock" that needs to be pulled back to release the connector. Once it's pulled back, pressing down on the colored lock clip will release the connector, and should unplug with a simple pull. One exception is the fuel pressure connector (top left on the image). You may need to place a flat screwdriver at the base of the connector and twist gently to pop the connector loose.
2) The recommended location for the JB4 is by the brake booster, under that flip down cover (top right of the picture, near the windshield). The rubber weather stripping can be pulled off slightly (pull it straight towards the front of the vehicle), which will allow the plastic cover to be raised. You can then release the clips on the brake booster grommet (with the foam insert), and pass the JB4 cable through it for a clean install.
3) Inside that cavity you can see the little grommet that is used to pass the OBDII wire back into the cabin.
4) You will need an 8mm socket to remove the two screws that hold the cover at the bottom of the dash. You will also need a 10mm socket to remove the two plastic nuts that hold the second half of this cover (around the steering column, on the firewall).
5) I found that if you pull the bottom of the dash out a bit, you can then pop the rear cover piece down so that you can access the grommet location from the inside. Picture is a bit hard to see, but it's pretty much eye level when you look in from the bottom. I passed a stiff wire from the outside in, and then pulled the OBDII wire back into the brake booster cavity. Have someone shine a flashlight from the outside (into the grommet) if you have issues finding the inside location.
6) Be VERY CAREFUL when connecting the OBDII plug to the JB4. The connector has 4 pin locations, with the plastic chamfered as "keys". It is possible to plug it in 90 or 180 degrees wrong. This messes up the CAN bus, and will cause the car to throw every fault code known. If this happens, don't panic. Turn off the car, clear all the codes, lock the door and let it sit for 5 minutes to go to sleep. It will return to normal once it wakes up again.
Taking it for a quick spin after install puts a nice smile on your face. I removed the DTUK unit to install the JB4. Here is what you'll notice for differences:
Power Delivery:
JB4 - starts linear and exponentially builds. Very predictable under all throttle angles.
DTUK - really aggressive off/on transitions (like a giant with a sledge hammer). Fun when messing around, not fun when you get that transition on an onramp cloverleaf.
Shifts:
JB4 - butter smooth under all load conditions
DTUK - engine stumbles and farts if shifted under high load
All in all, it feels just like stock, with the exception of a lot more power. Highly recommend it!
1) The connectors have a little colored "lock" that needs to be pulled back to release the connector. Once it's pulled back, pressing down on the colored lock clip will release the connector, and should unplug with a simple pull. One exception is the fuel pressure connector (top left on the image). You may need to place a flat screwdriver at the base of the connector and twist gently to pop the connector loose.
2) The recommended location for the JB4 is by the brake booster, under that flip down cover (top right of the picture, near the windshield). The rubber weather stripping can be pulled off slightly (pull it straight towards the front of the vehicle), which will allow the plastic cover to be raised. You can then release the clips on the brake booster grommet (with the foam insert), and pass the JB4 cable through it for a clean install.
3) Inside that cavity you can see the little grommet that is used to pass the OBDII wire back into the cabin.
4) You will need an 8mm socket to remove the two screws that hold the cover at the bottom of the dash. You will also need a 10mm socket to remove the two plastic nuts that hold the second half of this cover (around the steering column, on the firewall).
5) I found that if you pull the bottom of the dash out a bit, you can then pop the rear cover piece down so that you can access the grommet location from the inside. Picture is a bit hard to see, but it's pretty much eye level when you look in from the bottom. I passed a stiff wire from the outside in, and then pulled the OBDII wire back into the brake booster cavity. Have someone shine a flashlight from the outside (into the grommet) if you have issues finding the inside location.
6) Be VERY CAREFUL when connecting the OBDII plug to the JB4. The connector has 4 pin locations, with the plastic chamfered as "keys". It is possible to plug it in 90 or 180 degrees wrong. This messes up the CAN bus, and will cause the car to throw every fault code known. If this happens, don't panic. Turn off the car, clear all the codes, lock the door and let it sit for 5 minutes to go to sleep. It will return to normal once it wakes up again.
Taking it for a quick spin after install puts a nice smile on your face. I removed the DTUK unit to install the JB4. Here is what you'll notice for differences:
Power Delivery:
JB4 - starts linear and exponentially builds. Very predictable under all throttle angles.
DTUK - really aggressive off/on transitions (like a giant with a sledge hammer). Fun when messing around, not fun when you get that transition on an onramp cloverleaf.
Shifts:
JB4 - butter smooth under all load conditions
DTUK - engine stumbles and farts if shifted under high load
All in all, it feels just like stock, with the exception of a lot more power. Highly recommend it!
I would like to keep it installed for service appointments but looks like it would be obvious that the JB4 is there I.e OBD connector, wires running across engine bay under hood...
#25
How long did it take you to install? Do you think it would be a pain to uninstall this when going for service ?
I would like to keep it installed for service appointments but looks like it would be obvious that the JB4 is there I.e OBD connector, wires running across engine bay under hood...
#26
AudiWorld Senior Member
Been through service 2 times already since I got mine (just realized that have done about 10k miles with the JB4 installed!). Takes me about 20 minutes to remove or install. I leave the OBDII connector wire in (I went through the firewall) and take everything else out. I unplug the OBII connector and just leave it in tucked up into the dash panels.
Have you noticed any impact on mpg better or worse? Some tunes advertise possible gains since more torque with lower rpm. Obviously more acceleration will reduce efficiency but after a few nice pulls I expect most go back to pre-JB4 driving habits.
#27
Great idea to leave the OBDII wire in place- that will make the hassle of removal far less. How many zip ties are you adding each time?
Have you noticed any impact on mpg better or worse? Some tunes advertise possible gains since more torque with lower rpm. Obviously more acceleration will reduce efficiency but after a few nice pulls I expect most go back to pre-JB4 driving habits.
Have you noticed any impact on mpg better or worse? Some tunes advertise possible gains since more torque with lower rpm. Obviously more acceleration will reduce efficiency but after a few nice pulls I expect most go back to pre-JB4 driving habits.
I just went in for service so the JB4 is off the car for moment. I have seen a change of about 2mpg less without the JB4 these past couple of days. I used to be able to get it up to 28-29 at best on my normal drive to/from work, but now the best I am seeing is 26-27. Maybe traffic hasnt been the same or I am driving more aggressively or something, but to be honest I do notice myself using more throttle input when passing and what not. Just saying all that makes me wonder why I havent taken the 20 minutes to put it back on yet!
#28
AudiWorld Senior Member
That would be great. 6 or 7 percent better gas mileage with the JB4 would be an added bonus. The JB4 might just pay for itself over the lifetime of the car. Mine arrives on Saturday. I've tracked mpg since the beginning so in a few weeks I should have some data points to add.
#29
AudiWorld Senior Member
That would be great. 6 or 7 percent better gas mileage with the JB4 would be an added bonus. The JB4 might just pay for itself over the lifetime of the car. Mine arrives on Saturday. I've tracked mpg since the beginning so in a few weeks I should have some data points to add.
Glad you brought this point up, Spindlewood. I was just about to start a thread asking the question about mileage. But didn't quite know how to ask it because there is so much sophistication here about the electronics, that us old timey carburetor and points guys get lost (lol). Didn't quite know how to ask the question, so that we could understand the answer.
So far the only thing that I miss from my Q5 to the SQ5. I'm a fairly light foot and used to get high 20's and then low 30's on the highway - figured w/paper and pencil, not the car's computer.
#30
AudiWorld Senior Member
Quick install question. I got the bluetooth quick connect kit and it has a blue wire which loops around to the harness side and connects to one of the red wires using a barrel like connector.
The blue wire goes through the red end and makes contact with a silver post. I don't see what keeps the wire affixed to the connector. Can anyone clarify? I've attached a pic with arrows showing the two parts in question. The red screw cap is already slid down on the blue wire to the right.
The blue wire goes through the red end and makes contact with a silver post. I don't see what keeps the wire affixed to the connector. Can anyone clarify? I've attached a pic with arrows showing the two parts in question. The red screw cap is already slid down on the blue wire to the right.