bg_2007Q7

The proximity sensors are always on i believe, but i may be wrong...

-Wes-

They should be on in a "standby" type mode all the time, but they only really draw significant power if they are activated based on touch, etc. When they go bad, they are just on all the time, which is a lot more draw. Too much, as we've found.

Readytogo123

OK so my 2015 Q7 is doing weirdness with dying since the headlights drained battery few days ago. I also noticed that there is a delay in the unlocking as I approach the car or I've had to use my fob. I've had to jump my battery to start car a few times since but at first it was after it sat all night. Yesterday it wouldn't crank after sitting for less than 2hrs and it'd been driven 100miles, plenty of time for the battery to charge. I bought a new battery but if I have one of those parasitic drains it's just going to kill this battery too right? So how do I locate and or fix that...or disconnect it for now? And where do I have battery recorded once I change it out or do I use a memory saver??

bg_2007Q7

Just Google search "q7 parasitic door handle fix" and you'll get the thread that tells you how to fix it

cdaly

Thanks Wes, great info!

When you stated “…check the stats after you've done that to confirm that they are reset.” where would I look for these and how do I know if they they have been reset? Since I didn’t look before the swap it is harder to see what may or not have changed. What might be a good value to see to verify the recode was accepted? Or conversely what may be a value that indicates the recode was not taken?

-Wes-

Haha! Well, shoot. I was hoping you would have that at hand since you have your VAG-COM. I haven't used mine in a while, and I left it at home in Alaska (like a dummy) before heading out on this trip. So, I can't even load it up and hunt. When you were doing your recoding, you did something like what's described here (Battery Replacement - Ross-Tech Wiki). However, there's a monitoring/stats screen within the menu system that lets you see your battery's lifetime data as logged by the car. It shows the battery's state of charge, charging, lifetime energy, throughput, age, all sorts of stuff. It is that screen that should be "reset." So, when you find it, if the numbers (lifetime) are pretty low, and your battery's state of charge is good, then I'd say you have it reset and are good to go. There's much discussion about BEM on www.ross-tech.com, which may be of help if you can't find the monitoring screen on your VAG-COM.

This is the part that told me that I *wasn't* good to go on my last battery replacement. I bought an AGM unit from O'Reilly because it was the only game in town. It didn't have a BEM sticker, so I went through all sorts of rigamarole to try and get the right info coded (I didn't). A year later, the battery was dead as a doornail. Thankfully, I was able to get a prorated replacement from O'Reilly, and that time I just unplugged the system rather than deal with the coding stuff. No issues since then. However, I also found out about the door handle thing while I was here asking questions, etc., and I disabled all of those the next summer, so I'm sure that both items have conspired to help this battery have a longer life. I think I'm at about two years on it so far, so I should have several more years to go before having to worry about it again.