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That's the fuse tap... Just opened my rexing kit and it looks just like that...
Exactly. The mini fuse is built right into the Rexing kit positive wire. It's not removable. That's why I said if it every blows, you'd have to replace it with a regular fuse tap.
So did you leave your voltage module there or did you attach it to something under the dash? Did you cover it with something to keep it from accidentally grounding on something?
No, I just left it there. There's enough friction with the black padding (which does not seem to be conductive) and the module is so small and light, I don't think it's going anywhere.
Exactly. The mini fuse is built right into the Rexing kit positive wire. It's not removable. That's why I said if it every blows, you'd have to replace it with a regular fuse tap.
Originally Posted by VanDamme
That's the fuse tap... Just opened my rexing kit and it looks just like that...
Thank you both, this is why I was so confused, non of the pictures on the web of any dashcam wiring kits (rexing rebranded or not) showed this fuse. Also are you just lucky to have compatible fuse or do most vehicles these day come with this type of fuse.
I also understand why Rick had to get a tap but didn't use it.
Just to be clear, you guys both got it from Amazon and it came with fuse attached: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXC2329 ?
The problem with the SpyTec kit is that it isn't a right-angle USB plug. If you are using the GPS unit, you will have to mount much lower on the windshield to accommodate the straight plug.
Also, the inline fuse on the SpyTec kit is redundant if you are using a fuse tap.
I forgot to post pics of the camera itself after install. Here they are. For the exterior pics, I had to turn on the flash to be able to see it, which is why the pics look so filthy. Also, it is not nearly as visible from the outside as these pics make it look.
We all know flash magnifies every bit of dirt and dust so don't worry about it. Also the USB jack is forcing you to leave a bit space on top, otherwise people would end up mounting it flush with headliners, then it would be impossible to remove the dashcam. Sort of blessing that the USB port is on top. I know I'd screw up and put it all the way on top by headliner... LOL
We all know flash magnifies every bit of dirt and dust so don't worry about it. Also the USB jack is forcing you to leave a bit space on top, otherwise people would end up mounting it flush with headliners, then it would be impossible to remove the dashcam. Sort of blessing that the USB port is on top. I know I'd screw up and put it all the way on top by headliner... LOL
Yes, the space needed for the USB happens to be about exactly what you need for clearance to slide the camera off the GPS mount. But you really do want the 90 degree USB plug or it will end up significantly lower on the windshield than necessary.
Did you have to fiddle with the low voltage cut-off 's dial to make it work right or is it just plug and play?
rsilvers mentioned adjusting the voltage and setting it up and soldering it, but it looks like you simply ran the adapter through it and that was it.
If we want to use simply switched source (and not mess with mirror cover), can we use one of the other fuse slots (preferably the empty one closer to center that you mentioned) and skip the low voltage sensor? I am afraid I'll short things trying to connect all this stuff in there. It doesn't look like you disconnected the battery before working in there, did you?
Did you have to fiddle with the low voltage cut-off 's dial to make it work right or is it just plug and play?
rsilvers mentioned adjusting the voltage and setting it up and soldering it, but it looks like you simply ran the adapter through it and that was it.
If we want to use simply switched source (and not mess with mirror cover), can we use one of the other fuse slots (preferably the empty one closer to center that you mentioned) and skip the low voltage sensor? I am afraid I'll short things trying to connect all this stuff in there. It doesn't look like you disconnected the battery before working in there, did you?
I tested all the empty slots in that fuse block and all were powered with the car turned off... You may need to run to the panel on the floor to find a switched one...
I assume he had to adjust the dial to get the voltage setting correct... That's why i went with the other one that had the digital display... easier and more precise...
11-05-2017, 04:34 AM
