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Ok now i have 1 bad news and 1 good news. Let's start with the bad one: I did not take pictures as I didn't think about it and forgot about the thread.
now for the good news: you can replace the boards without taking glass off: you can acces the screws that attach to the heatsinks i posted in my previous comment(2 3 posts up) by removing those plastic caps that have the modules on top at the back of the headlight. From there you need a torx t10 that has ben modified(i will add a picture of what im talking about later today of the modified one, i actuallyused a cheap one that came with my sequencial side mirors blikers) and an endoscope camera that has 2 or 3 cameras. The reason for that it's easier if the endoscope has a camera on the side so you can see the screw on the driver since it's an absolute nightmare to try to get to the 2 screws in that are at the middle of the assembly. The ones on the right side of the assembly are super easy. But I just finished doing this in about 2h and more than half of that time it took me only to figure the first one out but the second went so fast.
again if I rambled too much I will say it again: IT CAN BE DONE WITHOUT REMOVING THE FRONT GLASS with a modified L shaped t10 torx and 60$ led boards from ali expres or 90-100 boards from ebay(I like to save a buck and wait 2 3 weeks) I will post the pictures of the modified tool and the screwdriver I used
thanks for this post. I am doing my second headlight your way, much easier then removing glass, still second module is the pain, will have to buy T10 wrench, since it is impossible to get bigger tools there. Headlight adjustment module is in the way too. How did you remove heating, there are 2lips and it seems that you have to lift heatsink to take it out?
thanks for this post. I am doing my second headlight your way, much easier then removing glass, still second module is the pain, will have to buy T10 wrench, since it is impossible to get bigger tools there. Headlight adjustment module is in the way too. How did you remove heating, there are 2lips and it seems that you have to lift heatsink to take it out?
please send me a picture of what you are referring to and I will circle/tell you how I did it(if you are talking about the heatsingk in the middle next to the low beam assembly, you just have to use that endoscope camera and the wrench like the one in the picture and unscrew it 1 turn at a time while you watch with the camera and aim at the screw head so you don't aimlessly search for it like I did for 45 min😅 and barely was able to do 5 6 turns) or if you have an electronics screwdriver kit like the gray one in the picture after you break lose the screws a few times with the L torx wrench l you can use that bare extension(in my second and 3rd pic) with a t10 bit and will unscrew it in a matter of seconds. After that if the 2 screws are completely unscrewd you will have enough space to pull the heatsink back a little and than pull it out no problem. And a little trick: when you put the heatsink on top of the led board and put it back in the housing: keep the headlight with the opening towards the ceiling and reinsert the screws in the heatsink and drop it slowly in it's spot. And than give it a few turns so they don't come out because if they do you will have to take it out again cause there is absolutely no chance in this life or even the next life to be able even with a magnetic bit to insert that screw back in the hole to be able to tighten it back in the headlight housing( don't ask me how I know about this trick or how I had to fish for one screw that fell in the housing for better part of 20 min 😆
Last edited by Lucian Chesoi; 04-07-2024 at 07:48 PM.
please send me a picture of what you are referring to and I will circle/tell you how I did it(if you are talking about the heatsingk in the middle next to the low beam assembly, you just have to use that endoscope camera and the wrench like the one in the picture and unscrew it 1 turn at a time while you watch with the camera and aim at the screw head so you don't aimlessly search for it like I did for 45 min😅 and barely was able to do 5 6 turns) or if you have an electronics screwdriver kit like the gray one in the picture after you break lose the screws a few times with the L torx wrench l you can use that bare extension(in my second and 3rd pic) with a t10 bit and will unscrew it in a matter of seconds. After that if the 2 screws are completely unscrewd you will have enough space to pull the heatsink back a little and than pull it out no problem. And a little trick: when you put the heatsink on top of the led board and put it back in the housing: keep the headlight with the opening towards the ceiling and reinsert the screws in the heatsink and drop it slowly in it's spot. And than give it a few turns so they don't come out because if they do you will have to take it out again cause there is absolutely no chance in this life or even the next life to be able even with a magnetic bit to insert that screw back in the hole to be able to tighten it back in the headlight housing( don't ask me how I know about this trick or how I had to fish for one screw that fell in the housing for better part of 20 min 😆
those are plastic tabs. I think it will come out though. Thanks for detailed instructions
those are plastic tabs. I think it will come out though. Thanks for detailed instructions
Oh yeah you have enough space to angle it after you take the screws off. That will not be an issue at all . Yea no problem man. I wish i would have recorded the procces/ make a video or at least take some pictures of what i did, but it just slipped my mind in my excitement of not having to remove that glass and all the work i saw it was needed just to replace those boards.
Oh yeah you have enough space to angle it after you take the screws off. That will not be an issue at all . Yea no problem man. I wish i would have recorded the procces/ make a video or at least take some pictures of what i did, but it just slipped my mind in my excitement of not having to remove that glass and all the work i saw it was needed just to replace those boards.
So I did replace led circuit. The issue is that burned led melted glass tube, so it works, but not 100%, color is slightly off. I think I can live with it, not going through a nightmare of taking glass cover off again You can see burned dots at the end of each plastic tube
So I did replace led circuit. The issue is that burned led melted glass tube, so it works, but not 100%, color is slightly off. I think I can live with it, not going through a nightmare of taking glass cover off again You can see burned dots at the end of each plastic tube
That is definitely unfortunate. Mine was not melted i guess so i didn't think about that. China is making the glass for cheap. If i remeber i saaw the glas for 120$ for both on aliexpress. Another way of fixing that would be to get a dremmel with a flexible extension for the head and get a fine grinding stone and grind that down a little and than use either clear nail polish or something that you can coat the rough plastic after sanding it with something drying with a glossy finish or you can just use some polish compound, but I think it will be a long and annoying procces to do that. If mine ever burns or melts in the future I will give that a try before smashing the front glass and getting new glas and if I remember I will post results here. Fun fact my q7 is the same white as yours 😁(i know this is not related but if you didn't already try the jackal motorsports tune for the engine and transmission, it makes that 8th gear annoing shifting completely dissappear and saves you the hassle of the superchargers clutch needing replace by keeping it engaged all the time. For me since I got it it made the car the ultimate dadmobile 😆 )
Last edited by Lucian Chesoi; 04-11-2024 at 06:46 PM.
04-07-2024, 06:53 PM
