Well, got the parts car stripped so all the goodies are ready for the eventual UrQ Resto
01-06-2009, 05:40 AM
#11
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thanks! It will def be finished...
time is the only thing that will be the question.
The next step is kinda big $$ (motor, then body work), and with my brother getting married in May, I'm not sure if time or $$ will be on our sides for a little while.
What makes this bearable is that the car runs, so we can at least enjoy it and not worry too much about washing it since the finish is $hit :-P
The next step is kinda big $$ (motor, then body work), and with my brother getting married in May, I'm not sure if time or $$ will be on our sides for a little while.
What makes this bearable is that the car runs, so we can at least enjoy it and not worry too much about washing it since the finish is $hit :-P
01-06-2009, 09:42 AM
#13
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Sounds good in theory...
That was also what I wanted to do, but noone that I talked to, including the dip stripping company recommended it. The problem is that no matter how well it is done, there are places where the chemical gets into, but can't get out of. This can lead to rust, or end up leaking out seams and destroying paint.
If you have a body guy and facility that is willing to do it, go for it. I sure would like to see someone do it. The other big issue is cost. I'm betting that you are looking at $15k easy for that kind of paint job. When you have to totally reseal the body, recoat all the undercoatings and then paint every surface, including the inside of the car, you are looking at many hours of labor and a lot of material.
If you have a body guy and facility that is willing to do it, go for it. I sure would like to see someone do it. The other big issue is cost. I'm betting that you are looking at $15k easy for that kind of paint job. When you have to totally reseal the body, recoat all the undercoatings and then paint every surface, including the inside of the car, you are looking at many hours of labor and a lot of material.
01-06-2009, 10:32 AM
#14
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I agree 100%, just passing by, but I have restored quite a few cars and dipping can turn ugly..
Something to consider from the hot rod guy you talked to is the complexity of the body he's referring to. Older stuff (not always, but most of the time) is WAY less complex than something unibodied and built like the Audi is. There are many more crooks and nannies to hide nasty stuff in the UrQ than a Shoebox Chevy, and as indicated, I don't think you'd ever get <everything> out.
I'm sure this guy knows his stuff, but I have always been very happy with media blasting (been having it done for a long time) and if for some reason you leave some sand behind, don't sweat it, just get "western" with a shop vac and various attachments to get after it and if you still leave some, no big deal. The same can't be said for the dipping process 100% of the time.
Any who, I thought I would share my 2 sense and good luck on the project!
I'm sure this guy knows his stuff, but I have always been very happy with media blasting (been having it done for a long time) and if for some reason you leave some sand behind, don't sweat it, just get "western" with a shop vac and various attachments to get after it and if you still leave some, no big deal. The same can't be said for the dipping process 100% of the time.
Any who, I thought I would share my 2 sense and good luck on the project!
01-06-2009, 11:22 AM
#15
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I've def heard a few less than optimal comments from acid dipping...
like it has been mentioned, getting stuck in teh seams and slowly coming out, ruining paint, body work, etc. And I also do agree w/ you that the UrQ body is a lot more complex than a tub to a typical body on frame muscle car. Next time I am home, I will probably go visit the acid dipping shop and see what they think and go from there. I'll also do some more research to see what other options are. Isn't there a bath of some sort that they soak the car in after the acid dip to neutralize everything? I haven't done enough research on the topic yet to be "in the know," but that to me would seem like a given when dealing w/ something so nasty.
In regards to the paint job, all said and done I think this is going to be the highest cost for the project bar none (followed closely by the reupholstering of all the seats, etc). We're pretty much prepared to spend what it takes to make this into a new car... it just might take us a few years to save enough bennies to make it happen
The body shop guy told us it's ~$2500ish to get it dipped and primed. Though hesitant to commit, I got about a $12k estimate from him to do the car, which given the amount of work (rust-wise and paint) isn't that bad. He also works pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things compared to other body shops, which might keep costs lower than other body shops in the area.
Appreciate the feedback, guys! Def keeps my mind spinning vs just sticking my head in the sand and keeping to one plan.
In regards to the paint job, all said and done I think this is going to be the highest cost for the project bar none (followed closely by the reupholstering of all the seats, etc). We're pretty much prepared to spend what it takes to make this into a new car... it just might take us a few years to save enough bennies to make it happen
The body shop guy told us it's ~$2500ish to get it dipped and primed. Though hesitant to commit, I got about a $12k estimate from him to do the car, which given the amount of work (rust-wise and paint) isn't that bad. He also works pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things compared to other body shops, which might keep costs lower than other body shops in the area.
Appreciate the feedback, guys! Def keeps my mind spinning vs just sticking my head in the sand and keeping to one plan.
01-07-2009, 05:05 AM
#17
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I was on the media blasting bandwagon from the get-go....
Took anything that was removeable off the car and sent it to the shop. I was told it would be blasted with walnut shells. The residue to me looked like baking soda.
The only problem I had was the rear decklid. At first "blast", about 1/1000th of composite was shaved off from one corner, and had to be hand sanded. It was easily repaired but just be aware.
Both the blaster guy and body man said that factory Audi paint was the hardest they had ever dealt with!
Also, be sure that the stripped body is very well cleaned before anything begins.
Wlnut shells and some sands leave behind small traces of oil. Makes the paint slip and slide.
HTH
Gary
The only problem I had was the rear decklid. At first "blast", about 1/1000th of composite was shaved off from one corner, and had to be hand sanded. It was easily repaired but just be aware.
Both the blaster guy and body man said that factory Audi paint was the hardest they had ever dealt with!
Also, be sure that the stripped body is very well cleaned before anything begins.
Wlnut shells and some sands leave behind small traces of oil. Makes the paint slip and slide.
HTH
Gary
01-07-2009, 05:30 AM
#18
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thanks, gary!
appreciate the insight.
I will start doing my research and might talk to another bodyshop or two just to get a little "smarter" on the subject.
I will start doing my research and might talk to another bodyshop or two just to get a little "smarter" on the subject.
