07 RS4 questions
#11
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good idea
Aaahh the channel lock pliers to the rescue.
I just went easy and barely made a mark. Came lose.
It says to be tightened at 25Nm. It felt quite a bit tighter than that.
Thanks
I just went easy and barely made a mark. Came lose.
It says to be tightened at 25Nm. It felt quite a bit tighter than that.
Thanks
Last edited by titsataki; 03-27-2009 at 11:19 AM.
#12
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ok more questions about jacking points.
Are these ok to lift the car?
jacking point left front(I see the arrow per manual):
Jacking point Left rear(I see the arrow per manual):
Jacking point Center front:
Jacking point Center rear:
Plan is to use the center points to lift and then put 4 jack stands so it is safe to work on the car but before I break something I thought I would run it but the group.
Thanks for input.
Nick
Are these ok to lift the car?
jacking point left front(I see the arrow per manual):
Jacking point Left rear(I see the arrow per manual):
Jacking point Center front:
Jacking point Center rear:
Plan is to use the center points to lift and then put 4 jack stands so it is safe to work on the car but before I break something I thought I would run it but the group.
Thanks for input.
Nick
Last edited by titsataki; 03-28-2009 at 10:18 AM.
#13
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ok the rear center point is fine to lift the car.
I was able to lift the car with no issues.
I put jack stands and the rear is resting on them.
I checked the rears pads and they have a ton of pad left. No need whatsoever to replace. So I will skip that part.
Now out of curiosity anyone has done the rear pads as DYI?
Or anyone has a service manual that describes how to be done?
If yes and they are able to scan the pages and email me please let me know.
OK I found a couple articles with pictures
Repair Brake Pads/Rotors/System Bleed (A4)
Replacing the Brake Pads
I did bleed the rear and replaced the stock fluid with ATE Super blue. It took a while for the blue fluid to completely displace the light amber one.
Actually the stock fluid looked to be in quite good state. I was tempted to skip it but since I bought the fluid and the car turned 2 years old a couple months ago I did it.
Tomorrow I will do the fronts and then I will re flush front and rear to make sure everything old is out of the system.
I bought 2 liters of ATE blue and I usually keep flushing a bit extra.
I keep the left over but when it is time to re flush I throw it away and use only brand new sealed fluid to be safe.
I also took a look at the rear DRC. Except some dirt and dust I did not really noticed any leaks. I went ahead and cleaned all over the area in the wheel wells as well as the rear rims which seemed to have been detailed and cleaned for the life of the car. I will add some wheel wax to help the cleaning in the future.
I will post pics tomorrow.
Cheers
Nick
I was able to lift the car with no issues.
I put jack stands and the rear is resting on them.
I checked the rears pads and they have a ton of pad left. No need whatsoever to replace. So I will skip that part.
Now out of curiosity anyone has done the rear pads as DYI?
Or anyone has a service manual that describes how to be done?
If yes and they are able to scan the pages and email me please let me know.
OK I found a couple articles with pictures
Repair Brake Pads/Rotors/System Bleed (A4)
Replacing the Brake Pads
I did bleed the rear and replaced the stock fluid with ATE Super blue. It took a while for the blue fluid to completely displace the light amber one.
Actually the stock fluid looked to be in quite good state. I was tempted to skip it but since I bought the fluid and the car turned 2 years old a couple months ago I did it.
Tomorrow I will do the fronts and then I will re flush front and rear to make sure everything old is out of the system.
I bought 2 liters of ATE blue and I usually keep flushing a bit extra.
I keep the left over but when it is time to re flush I throw it away and use only brand new sealed fluid to be safe.
I also took a look at the rear DRC. Except some dirt and dust I did not really noticed any leaks. I went ahead and cleaned all over the area in the wheel wells as well as the rear rims which seemed to have been detailed and cleaned for the life of the car. I will add some wheel wax to help the cleaning in the future.
I will post pics tomorrow.
Cheers
Nick
Last edited by titsataki; 03-28-2009 at 05:01 PM.
#14
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ok I am done.
Rear brakes did not need to be swapped.
Front ones probably did not need to be changed either.
Even the fluid looked pretty good.
I did replace the front pads.
I did flush the brake fluid.
I still have to go bed the pads properly.
So I have a full liter of ATE blue unopened.
A set of rear pads brand new.
Oil change next.
Then the long process of buffing and leveling the paint starts.
Thanks to all that offer input.
Cheers
Nick
Rear brakes did not need to be swapped.
Front ones probably did not need to be changed either.
Even the fluid looked pretty good.
I did replace the front pads.
I did flush the brake fluid.
I still have to go bed the pads properly.
So I have a full liter of ATE blue unopened.
A set of rear pads brand new.
Oil change next.
Then the long process of buffing and leveling the paint starts.
Thanks to all that offer input.
Cheers
Nick
#16
#17
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It is 32 mm on mine as well. I would have taken a pic but wife took the camera.
I just bought a 32mm axle socket for $7 from ebay. Got even lucky they were a local CT seller so I paid no shipping; $7.61 total.
Oil change later today.
Questions:
I have not yet removed the plastic belly pan.
What is the socket size of the drain plug? Torque to set it?
How many plastic clips there are under? I saw a bunch.
Any trick/inside on how they are removed?
For this time I went stock and got me Castrol 5W40.
Does the Audi care transfer to new owners? How frequently they will change the oil? Every 10k miles? Existing oil looks quite dark (although I am not sure that means it has lost any of its lubricating abilities)
Cheers
Nick
I just bought a 32mm axle socket for $7 from ebay. Got even lucky they were a local CT seller so I paid no shipping; $7.61 total.
Oil change later today.
Questions:
I have not yet removed the plastic belly pan.
What is the socket size of the drain plug? Torque to set it?
How many plastic clips there are under? I saw a bunch.
Any trick/inside on how they are removed?
For this time I went stock and got me Castrol 5W40.
Does the Audi care transfer to new owners? How frequently they will change the oil? Every 10k miles? Existing oil looks quite dark (although I am not sure that means it has lost any of its lubricating abilities)
Cheers
Nick
#18
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I have not yet removed the plastic belly pan.
What is the socket size of the drain plug? 8mm alen wrench - if I remember correctly Torque to set it? hand tight - don't kill it.
How many plastic clips there are under? I saw a bunch. yes a bunch
Any trick/inside on how they are removed? not really just the brake ducts can be a pain in the butt
For this time I went stock and got me Castrol 5W40. I use this all the time and never had to add any between the 5K changes.
Does the Audi care transfer to new owners? Not after 06 models - 07 models had to be purchased by new owner.
#19
there are 2 plastic 1/4 turns inside the wheel well that need loosened also...
re-install these last, they give you acces to hold the brake ducts while securing them...
do the ducts first after installing the rear center fastener to hold the pan...I found this much easier
re-install these last, they give you acces to hold the brake ducts while securing them...
do the ducts first after installing the rear center fastener to hold the pan...I found this much easier
#20
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Thanks folks.
So can I reach the plastic plugs inside the wheel well?
I am going to turn the wheels left and right and see if they are accesible. Car is on the ramps now.
Cheers
Nick
So can I reach the plastic plugs inside the wheel well?
I am going to turn the wheels left and right and see if they are accesible. Car is on the ramps now.
Cheers
Nick