mkaenel

and is there any special tools needed to change them out or tips on doing them?

Thanks

hotazlava32

Its very straight forward and pretty easy

TNT13

the longest part was to figure out how to secure the shorted brake sensor wire since I didn't get the OEM pads.<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel59.shtml">Brakechange</a></li></ul>

RS4 RAIDER

How Did You Secure The Sensor Wire ?

TNT13

have a solder iron at hand. I got some heat shrink wrap to cover the expose plus some more. I then pull the original wire jacket up to cover everything. It's pretty tough to pull it over the shrink wrap/twisted section. But it pulled through and should be able to protect it from the environment.

Then I tie wrap the line to a metal rod(small diameter) which I don't remember where. I know I didn't tie wrap it to the break line because that would be worse. I left a medium size loop near the brake sensor so it will not break off (somewhat natural hanging pattern like it was with the break sensor). The question is whether the line will come lose from the tie wrap.

Not the best job, but it's working so far after 1500mi. I will probably redo the whole thing by removing the break sensor connector (pad side), and cut the wire right at the connector and solder that together and plug it back in. That way no wire hanging at all.

Let me know if you have other thoughts, would like to see how others do theirs.

Thanks

rabbiTT

Very easy if you're using stock pads. I did mine at the track one weekend (with RedStuff) in under an hour for all four corners, without a fluid change. Was on track and felt like I had no grip and sure enough the pads had about only 2mm of wear left. The wear sensors had sheared right off so they never triggered on the DIS.

You'll need a drift and rubber (pref) mallet to drive out and replace the retaining pins. Other than that, not much else. The Tech article reference in another post is what I looked up on my iPhone at the track and is EXCELLENT!

If you need to change the front padss, chances are you'll need to do the rears as well since they are designed such that when the pads are worn so are the pads and rotors everywhere. (NICE DESIGN FEATURE huh?)

Also it helps if you turn the front wheels away from the side you're working on. Rears are much easier since they only take 2 pads as opposed to the 4 on the front.

Good luck!