Oil consumption now 1 quart / 2000 miles.... 7500 miles on the odometer
#1
Oil consumption now 1 quart / 2000 miles.... 7500 miles on the odometer
...I assume this is within normal limits? I was hoping for no oil consumption at this point...
#2
I am about the same, 7K on the clock and am at the bottom of the hash marks
so I need to add 1/2 quart. I changed the oil at 2500 and 5000. First 2,500 used 2 quarts, next 2,500 used a quart so the trend is improving.
#3
Banned
Audi says that 1 qt/1k miles is within normal limits.
if you followed Audi's "easy' break in recommendations, this condition may persist. BTW, I have had ZERO oil consumption in 27K miles.
#6
1.5 Qts 1st 1800 miles. Zero Qts 1800 miles to 6400 miles.
1.5 Qts/1800 miles -- factory oil
Zero Qts/(1800 to 5000 miles) -- Elf Excellium LDX 5W-40
Zero Qts/(5000 to 6400 miles) -- Motul E-tech 8100 0W-40
I broke in my engine fast and hard, within the RPM and throttle guidelines in the manual, with 2nd and 3rd gear hard acceleration and engine compression deceleration, after complete engine warmup, followed by cooldown, constant cruising in 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gears, and then repeating the hard acceleration. I did this every time I took the car out during the break in period, to seat the rings and wear-in the cylinder walls, which are hard silicon. At 1800 miles I changed the oil and filter.
Zero Qts/(1800 to 5000 miles) -- Elf Excellium LDX 5W-40
Zero Qts/(5000 to 6400 miles) -- Motul E-tech 8100 0W-40
I broke in my engine fast and hard, within the RPM and throttle guidelines in the manual, with 2nd and 3rd gear hard acceleration and engine compression deceleration, after complete engine warmup, followed by cooldown, constant cruising in 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gears, and then repeating the hard acceleration. I did this every time I took the car out during the break in period, to seat the rings and wear-in the cylinder walls, which are hard silicon. At 1800 miles I changed the oil and filter.
#7
I agree with Dr GP with one exception
AoA break-in method does not preclude a hard break-in. You just have limits you can't exceed (RPM and max throttle position). Within those limits, you can be very hard on the engine and still meet all requirements in the owners manual.
I will point out that maximum piston ring forces occur at maximum engine torque, which is about 5500 rpm. This falls within even the early < 600 mile break-in RPM limit. You just aren't supposed to go to full throttle yet ... but, nothing in the manual says you can't get damn close.
I think Dr GP will agree with me on this. The key is to run the engine up hard, to maximize the ring/cylinder wall forces under acceleration, and then to allow the engine to use full compression breaking, to reverse those forces. This allows the rings to fully wear into the piston grooves and to lap themselves against the cylinder walls.
This is much easier to do when the engine is young. As it gets older, deposits in the ring grooves can prevent full seating. But, I think that the hard acceleration and deceleration in lower gears (2nd and 3rd) would still help the process along, if it has not been completed fully. However, if significant deposits do form around the rings, you might not be able to improve seating beyond a point.
I will point out that maximum piston ring forces occur at maximum engine torque, which is about 5500 rpm. This falls within even the early < 600 mile break-in RPM limit. You just aren't supposed to go to full throttle yet ... but, nothing in the manual says you can't get damn close.
I think Dr GP will agree with me on this. The key is to run the engine up hard, to maximize the ring/cylinder wall forces under acceleration, and then to allow the engine to use full compression breaking, to reverse those forces. This allows the rings to fully wear into the piston grooves and to lap themselves against the cylinder walls.
This is much easier to do when the engine is young. As it gets older, deposits in the ring grooves can prevent full seating. But, I think that the hard acceleration and deceleration in lower gears (2nd and 3rd) would still help the process along, if it has not been completed fully. However, if significant deposits do form around the rings, you might not be able to improve seating beyond a point.
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