Defcon 1+ alignment question
#1
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Defcon 1+ alignment question
Now that I've got the Defcon 1+ installed, I need to have the car aligned (stock suspension + H&R sway on soft setting).
From what I've read, here are the targets:
Front:
Camber: -0.8deg
Cross Camber: 0deg
Caster: (not adjustable)
Toe: Toe IN (per side) 0 to 1/32" (I want this closer to 0 than the stock specification, right?)
Total Toe: 0 to 1/16"
Steering Angle: 0deg
Rear:
Camber: -1.6deg
Cross Camber: 0deg
Toe: Toe IN (per side) - 0 to 1/16"
Total Toe: 0 to 1/8"
Thrust Angle: 0deg
Which, I think, are mostly stock specs, with the exception of reducing the front toe in. Does this sound right or am I missing something?
Thanks.
From what I've read, here are the targets:
Front:
Camber: -0.8deg
Cross Camber: 0deg
Caster: (not adjustable)
Toe: Toe IN (per side) 0 to 1/32" (I want this closer to 0 than the stock specification, right?)
Total Toe: 0 to 1/16"
Steering Angle: 0deg
Rear:
Camber: -1.6deg
Cross Camber: 0deg
Toe: Toe IN (per side) - 0 to 1/16"
Total Toe: 0 to 1/8"
Thrust Angle: 0deg
Which, I think, are mostly stock specs, with the exception of reducing the front toe in. Does this sound right or am I missing something?
Thanks.
#2
The problem with the front toe is...
0 toe is great for track use, but on the street you'll find that the car won't track straight. If you let loose of the wheel the car will just drive itself in whichever direction is chooses to go. I would use a slight toe-in on the front unless you only track the car.
#3
Does this sound right or am I missing something?
Nope, IMO you're not missing anything. These specs are similar to stock, with the exception of cross camber. The factory allows too much. The car's response to steering input (from the perspective of precision), it's tendancy to wander and pull, and the way it enters and exits corners at speed all benefit from matching the camber from side to side. It takes a little longer to get zero, rather than allowing .3 or more mismatch, and it's a worthwhile investment. The remainder of the specs (toe and the basic camber setting) have all been experimented with incrementally in my shop and others. An interesting pattern has emerged over time: these numbers, which resemble the factory spec, WORK the best.
There are exceptions in use. For example: much higher front camber combined with more toe in produces lightning fast turn in. Toe out in front increases grip. But there's usually a trade off. Some other handling characteristic suffers, or tire wear increases dramatically. If you have the tools and the time to experiment with this stuff, it's pretty interesting.
If not, use the best alignment guy you can find, and request these specs. They balance all of the variables the best, and the car handles really well in daily use.
There are exceptions in use. For example: much higher front camber combined with more toe in produces lightning fast turn in. Toe out in front increases grip. But there's usually a trade off. Some other handling characteristic suffers, or tire wear increases dramatically. If you have the tools and the time to experiment with this stuff, it's pretty interesting.
If not, use the best alignment guy you can find, and request these specs. They balance all of the variables the best, and the car handles really well in daily use.
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