ESP flashes and car loses traction on sharp turns in low speeds, i.e. making a U-turn
10-18-2010, 06:18 AM
#11
It still sounds exactly like the two reported on QW with bad---
Haldex controllers. Not the coupling. Just the controller. Your Haldex coupling is engaged when it shouldn't be. This is causing the rear wheel slippage when turning sharply because the engaged coupling does not allow the rear wheels to turn slower as they travel a smaller radius arc than the fronts. The slippage occurs at the rear because that axle carries less weight. I don't think you are going to solve this witout a trip to the dealer or an independent Audi specialist. Sorry.
Last edited by J. Patterson; 10-18-2010 at 06:20 AM. Reason: spelling
10-18-2010, 06:24 AM
#12
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Well, first of all: THANK YOU very much for the time spent helping me out.
Now, the only dealer here in my area charges me $200 just to diagnose the problem and another $180/hour to fix whatever needs to be fixed, so I would really appreciate if you could guide me on how to fix it.
Actually, I would even be willing to pay you. I have all the tools to fix the car, so I could do it myself with your guidance, of course, and it would be much cheaper for me.
Another question, is there a way I could test the Haldex controller with my VAGCOM?
Thank you!
Now, the only dealer here in my area charges me $200 just to diagnose the problem and another $180/hour to fix whatever needs to be fixed, so I would really appreciate if you could guide me on how to fix it.
Actually, I would even be willing to pay you. I have all the tools to fix the car, so I could do it myself with your guidance, of course, and it would be much cheaper for me.
Another question, is there a way I could test the Haldex controller with my VAGCOM?
Thank you!
10-18-2010, 12:20 PM
#13
Well, first of all: THANK YOU very much for the time spent helping me out.
Now, the only dealer here in my area charges me $200 just to diagnose the problem and another $180/hour to fix whatever needs to be fixed, so I would really appreciate if you could guide me on how to fix it.
Actually, I would even be willing to pay you. I have all the tools to fix the car, so I could do it myself with your guidance, of course, and it would be much cheaper for me.
Another question, is there a way I could test the Haldex controller with my VAGCOM?
Thank you!
Now, the only dealer here in my area charges me $200 just to diagnose the problem and another $180/hour to fix whatever needs to be fixed, so I would really appreciate if you could guide me on how to fix it.
Actually, I would even be willing to pay you. I have all the tools to fix the car, so I could do it myself with your guidance, of course, and it would be much cheaper for me.
Another question, is there a way I could test the Haldex controller with my VAGCOM?
Thank you!
10-20-2010, 09:06 AM
#14
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So, the car passed in all other tests, but failed in this one:
2. Disengage the handbrake.
Disengage the clutch and start the engine
Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear.
Let the engine idle.
Engage the clutch. At least one front wheel and one rear wheel is supposed to turn.
Pull the handbrake for 2 seconds.
* Front wheel is supposed to turn while the rear wheels are supposed to stop when the brake is pulled. Engine is supposed to run all the time. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake turn.) Don't exceed the 2 seconds or repeat the test for more than 5 times during a 5-minute period. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC.
The engine died!
Does that mean that I need to replace my haldex (a.k.a. HLSC)?
2. Disengage the handbrake.
Disengage the clutch and start the engine
Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear.
Let the engine idle.
Engage the clutch. At least one front wheel and one rear wheel is supposed to turn.
Pull the handbrake for 2 seconds.
* Front wheel is supposed to turn while the rear wheels are supposed to stop when the brake is pulled. Engine is supposed to run all the time. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake turn.) Don't exceed the 2 seconds or repeat the test for more than 5 times during a 5-minute period. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC.
The engine died!
Does that mean that I need to replace my haldex (a.k.a. HLSC)?
10-21-2010, 05:45 PM
#16
So, the car passed in all other tests, but failed in this one:
2. Disengage the handbrake.
Disengage the clutch and start the engine
Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear.
Let the engine idle.
Engage the clutch. At least one front wheel and one rear wheel is supposed to turn.
Pull the handbrake for 2 seconds.
* Front wheel is supposed to turn while the rear wheels are supposed to stop when the brake is pulled. Engine is supposed to run all the time. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake turn.) Don't exceed the 2 seconds or repeat the test for more than 5 times during a 5-minute period. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC.
The engine died!
Does that mean that I need to replace my haldex (a.k.a. HLSC)?
2. Disengage the handbrake.
Disengage the clutch and start the engine
Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear.
Let the engine idle.
Engage the clutch. At least one front wheel and one rear wheel is supposed to turn.
Pull the handbrake for 2 seconds.
* Front wheel is supposed to turn while the rear wheels are supposed to stop when the brake is pulled. Engine is supposed to run all the time. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake turn.) Don't exceed the 2 seconds or repeat the test for more than 5 times during a 5-minute period. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC.
The engine died!
Does that mean that I need to replace my haldex (a.k.a. HLSC)?
That probably just indicates that your rear axle is engaged when it shouldn't be. Still points towards the haldex controller. Sorry to keep giving you bad news. At least it's not the coupling.
10-22-2010, 07:57 AM
#17
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Stop wasting time and money trying to diagnose this. It's your haldex controller. This is the same way mine died and the same way it acted. The haldex controller has your axles stuck locked together. They die suddenly, so the alignment is coincidental.
Find a new or working used controller and put it in.
Find a new or working used controller and put it in.
Well, I wish it would be that simple. :-)
I'm not turning sharp and fast, I'm making a regular u-turn at normal speed. In fact, the problem happens only at low speeds.
As I said, this problem didn't occur before the car alignment, and my driving style didn't change either.
Any other thoughts?
I'm not turning sharp and fast, I'm making a regular u-turn at normal speed. In fact, the problem happens only at low speeds.
As I said, this problem didn't occur before the car alignment, and my driving style didn't change either.
Any other thoughts?
10-22-2010, 12:29 PM
#19
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It seems like it will be the way to go. Briefly, What are the main advantages? Do you have the website I can check it out?
And, is it easy to replace? Is there any documentation online (with pictures) on how to do it?
Thank you!
And, is it easy to replace? Is there any documentation online (with pictures) on how to do it?
Thank you!
10-22-2010, 01:06 PM
#20
blue here---- http://www.hpamotorsport.com/haldex.htm
OEM here --- http://www.worldimpex.com/ (you'll have to call them)
Maybe one of the others knows of another place.
Best bet is someones used oem after they bought the high performance unit.
And yes we talked about you on the other forum and decided maybe it would help if several joined in :-) Thanks guys. (and Dani)
OEM here --- http://www.worldimpex.com/ (you'll have to call them)
Maybe one of the others knows of another place.
Best bet is someones used oem after they bought the high performance unit.
And yes we talked about you on the other forum and decided maybe it would help if several joined in :-) Thanks guys. (and Dani)