Frequently Asked Questions and Common Problems Thread Collection
08-01-2006, 10:31 AM
#202
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Re: TT user guide when you're told to RTFM and don't have one
User guide no longer found on that link.
Try this:
http://www.audiusa.com/common/myaudiManualsPdf/myaudiQRG_TT_Roadster_2003_en.pdf
http://www.audiusa.com/common/myaudiManualsPdf/myaudiQRG_TT_Coupe_2003_en.pdf
Try this:
http://www.audiusa.com/common/myaudiManualsPdf/myaudiQRG_TT_Roadster_2003_en.pdf
http://www.audiusa.com/common/myaudiManualsPdf/myaudiQRG_TT_Coupe_2003_en.pdf
08-22-2006, 12:06 PM
#204
Reset service reminder, done from the instrument cluster (no VAG COM needed):
https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1540277.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1541992.phtml<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1541992.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1541992.phtml</a</li></ul>
https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1541992.phtml<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1541992.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1541992.phtml</a</li></ul>
08-31-2006, 10:02 AM
#205
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It can also happen in high temperature & high humidity weather
If you can't get your car to the dealer when it's happening, they won't fix it (unless you've got great bargaining skills).
The overall workaround I've seen posted is to replace the manual transmission fluid with Redline MT-90 or Amsoil 75w90. Most everyone who did it says the problem went away.
The overall workaround I've seen posted is to replace the manual transmission fluid with Redline MT-90 or Amsoil 75w90. Most everyone who did it says the problem went away.
09-06-2006, 07:12 AM
#206
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Soft top rear window replacement / vulnerability
This posting may be useful to anyone faced with the prospect of replacing their soft top, due to one of several causes (accident, vandalism, or user mistake).
Audi should have a published warning presented to all Roadster owners of a design flaw with the soft top mechanism. If any items are left in the "well" (the stowage area for the top), the rear window will very likely break when the top is retracted. Audi should have a sensor to detect any obstruction and disengage the control (detecting resistance is useless, as the soft top is very heavy and will fully open by itself once retracted about 12").
For cars made in Europe, the government highway safety regulations require that the rear window in convertible tops must be bonded and sewn into the top (probably due to the high speeds that cars are permitted to travel). This makes for a perfect leak proof seam around the window, but presents a problem when the window breaks as the entire top must be replaced. As far as I've learned, there are NO specialty shops that can replace the window only (apparently the labor involved and effort in crafting the window ends up exceeding the top replacement cost).
<b>Replacement Top:</b>
Several on-line sources exist for OEM style convertible top replacements (do a basic search), and 2006 prices can vary from around $560 (Robbins brand) to $1850 (OEM dealer price). On-line auction houses like eBay can offer even cheaper prices (I've seen them as low as $368), but there is really no guarantee you will get OEM. I've seen them state that the rear plastic extrusion piece that attaches to the body rail is of a different design but "works as OEM"--hard to trust that on such an important component.
As for materials, the three main choices on fabric quality are Haartz Stay Fast (cotton lining), Haartz Twillfast/Sonnendeck (American made, with "Dobby" OEM lining), and Haartz Sonnenland (better than OEM, made in Germany). I would stay away from Haartz Stay Fast, as Twillfast is only a little more expensive but better--why make your top feel cheaper than before? Twillfast or Sonnendeck is supposed to be OEM, but I've seen some websites indicate the Audi TT has Twillfast RPC as OEM fabric (not Twillfast II). The Twillfast RPC is stated as having better low temperature flexibility and improved acoustical properties. Sonnenland is a special German made fabric top that is available on certain German cars. It is about 10% thicker than Sonnendeck and has to be special ordered. It is also the most expensive.
At the time of this writing, there are several sources I've found:
www.convertibletops.net - these are all made by Robbins (a leading maker of convertible tops) with OEM materials (Twillfast/Sonnendeck) and are supposed to have the exact same design as OEM (rainguards, "Dobby" style weave inner lining, and original style plastic extrusion sewn to the rear of the top at the body rail). Black is usually in stock and can ship right away. Other colors are available and there is no price difference, but are made to order with a lead time of 2 weeks ($593). They can also make tops out of Sonnenland material (German), for $110 more. I think it's worth it, given the quality improvement.
www.convertibletopguys.com - this is M&T Manufacturing, which uses OEM materials ($670). Aside from Sonnendeck, they also offer the superior Sonnenland material ($750). All tops are made to order a lead time of approximately 3 weeks. If you can wait it out, it might be worth getting the Sonnenland version.
www.gahh.com - this is the more popular source and also the more expensive ($767 shipped). Although they state on their website that they provide TT convertible tops in Sonnenland material (~$1000), the representative I spoke with over the phone said that is a mistake--they only use Sonnendeck, which is the OEM material. I don't know why this is the case when the Robbins top dealer can do Sonnenland. GAHH keeps tops in stock for immediate shipping. By the way "GAHH" is the initials for the founders (it isn't an acronym--they spell out their name when answering the phone).
<b>Installation Labor:</b>
The task of replacing the soft top is long, arduous, and requires special skills--you really must have a qualified local auto upholstery shop do it for you. The time estimate for installation is about 10 to 12 hours. I've gotten pricing estimates as low as $600 and as high as $800. Nasty that it is about the same as the price for the top!
<b>Dealing With No Window:</b>
Even if a shop has the part in stock immediately, you've got about a week involved with ordering and getting installation scheduled. Unless you have a garage and live in a dry arid place, you will have to deal with getting rained on (not to mention exposure to would-be thieves and unwanted critters/bugs climbing inside). If you have to continue driving your car, you'll have to make a temporary patch to the window. This may seem trivial, but it isn't.
First off, your friend is duct tape. Secondly, your enemies are heat and wind. And third, you need to be handy. I tried several means of creating a temporary window and two of them failed miserably. The first was to use a thin translucent plastic wrapping. This wasn't rigid enough and yanked/pulled a lot against the wind, eventually coming loose. The second was thin plexiglass. Initially this looked to be a great solution, while the air was chilled and the duct tape held it secure. But as soon as the sun began to beat down on the roof, the tape couldn't hold the weight after softening and the plexiglass slid out. My final solution which has "mostly" worked was getting a thicker plyable plastic (like the clear zippered bag you get when buying a comforter). I found an item in Linens-n-things that came in a similar bag that was long, so I was easily able to cut it to suit. This ended up being flexible, yet firm enough not to get too badly affected by the wind. But still... duct tape does not secure very well to that soft top fabric once it is heated up. The trick is to prop up some carboard in the soft top well to provide bracing against the soft top. The rear of the soft top experiences a lot of stress when driving (it balloons out a bit with the windows closed and is sucked inwards with the windows slightly open). I've found I can drive about an hour at 70mph before some of the duct tape begins to pull up. So, the perpetual need is to have a roll of duct tape and a pair of scissors in the trunk for spot-on repairs.
<b>CONCLUSION:</b>
Consider your soft top rear window as a prized jewel, knowing that if it breaks you will be faced with a huge repair bill (if you can't put in an insurance claim) and significant inconvenience. So, the bottom line is--DO NOT PUT ANYTHING in the SOFT TOP STOWAGE AREA, unless you absolutely have to. And if you do, make sure to leave a visual cue (position items so they can easily be seen or put a Post-It on the rear window), to make sure you do not retract the soft top with anything still in the stowage area. Unfortunately, I had to learn this the hard way. I hope that my message will save at least a few people some $$$.
Audi should have a published warning presented to all Roadster owners of a design flaw with the soft top mechanism. If any items are left in the "well" (the stowage area for the top), the rear window will very likely break when the top is retracted. Audi should have a sensor to detect any obstruction and disengage the control (detecting resistance is useless, as the soft top is very heavy and will fully open by itself once retracted about 12").
For cars made in Europe, the government highway safety regulations require that the rear window in convertible tops must be bonded and sewn into the top (probably due to the high speeds that cars are permitted to travel). This makes for a perfect leak proof seam around the window, but presents a problem when the window breaks as the entire top must be replaced. As far as I've learned, there are NO specialty shops that can replace the window only (apparently the labor involved and effort in crafting the window ends up exceeding the top replacement cost).
<b>Replacement Top:</b>
Several on-line sources exist for OEM style convertible top replacements (do a basic search), and 2006 prices can vary from around $560 (Robbins brand) to $1850 (OEM dealer price). On-line auction houses like eBay can offer even cheaper prices (I've seen them as low as $368), but there is really no guarantee you will get OEM. I've seen them state that the rear plastic extrusion piece that attaches to the body rail is of a different design but "works as OEM"--hard to trust that on such an important component.
As for materials, the three main choices on fabric quality are Haartz Stay Fast (cotton lining), Haartz Twillfast/Sonnendeck (American made, with "Dobby" OEM lining), and Haartz Sonnenland (better than OEM, made in Germany). I would stay away from Haartz Stay Fast, as Twillfast is only a little more expensive but better--why make your top feel cheaper than before? Twillfast or Sonnendeck is supposed to be OEM, but I've seen some websites indicate the Audi TT has Twillfast RPC as OEM fabric (not Twillfast II). The Twillfast RPC is stated as having better low temperature flexibility and improved acoustical properties. Sonnenland is a special German made fabric top that is available on certain German cars. It is about 10% thicker than Sonnendeck and has to be special ordered. It is also the most expensive.
At the time of this writing, there are several sources I've found:
www.convertibletops.net - these are all made by Robbins (a leading maker of convertible tops) with OEM materials (Twillfast/Sonnendeck) and are supposed to have the exact same design as OEM (rainguards, "Dobby" style weave inner lining, and original style plastic extrusion sewn to the rear of the top at the body rail). Black is usually in stock and can ship right away. Other colors are available and there is no price difference, but are made to order with a lead time of 2 weeks ($593). They can also make tops out of Sonnenland material (German), for $110 more. I think it's worth it, given the quality improvement.
www.convertibletopguys.com - this is M&T Manufacturing, which uses OEM materials ($670). Aside from Sonnendeck, they also offer the superior Sonnenland material ($750). All tops are made to order a lead time of approximately 3 weeks. If you can wait it out, it might be worth getting the Sonnenland version.
www.gahh.com - this is the more popular source and also the more expensive ($767 shipped). Although they state on their website that they provide TT convertible tops in Sonnenland material (~$1000), the representative I spoke with over the phone said that is a mistake--they only use Sonnendeck, which is the OEM material. I don't know why this is the case when the Robbins top dealer can do Sonnenland. GAHH keeps tops in stock for immediate shipping. By the way "GAHH" is the initials for the founders (it isn't an acronym--they spell out their name when answering the phone).
<b>Installation Labor:</b>
The task of replacing the soft top is long, arduous, and requires special skills--you really must have a qualified local auto upholstery shop do it for you. The time estimate for installation is about 10 to 12 hours. I've gotten pricing estimates as low as $600 and as high as $800. Nasty that it is about the same as the price for the top!
<b>Dealing With No Window:</b>
Even if a shop has the part in stock immediately, you've got about a week involved with ordering and getting installation scheduled. Unless you have a garage and live in a dry arid place, you will have to deal with getting rained on (not to mention exposure to would-be thieves and unwanted critters/bugs climbing inside). If you have to continue driving your car, you'll have to make a temporary patch to the window. This may seem trivial, but it isn't.
First off, your friend is duct tape. Secondly, your enemies are heat and wind. And third, you need to be handy. I tried several means of creating a temporary window and two of them failed miserably. The first was to use a thin translucent plastic wrapping. This wasn't rigid enough and yanked/pulled a lot against the wind, eventually coming loose. The second was thin plexiglass. Initially this looked to be a great solution, while the air was chilled and the duct tape held it secure. But as soon as the sun began to beat down on the roof, the tape couldn't hold the weight after softening and the plexiglass slid out. My final solution which has "mostly" worked was getting a thicker plyable plastic (like the clear zippered bag you get when buying a comforter). I found an item in Linens-n-things that came in a similar bag that was long, so I was easily able to cut it to suit. This ended up being flexible, yet firm enough not to get too badly affected by the wind. But still... duct tape does not secure very well to that soft top fabric once it is heated up. The trick is to prop up some carboard in the soft top well to provide bracing against the soft top. The rear of the soft top experiences a lot of stress when driving (it balloons out a bit with the windows closed and is sucked inwards with the windows slightly open). I've found I can drive about an hour at 70mph before some of the duct tape begins to pull up. So, the perpetual need is to have a roll of duct tape and a pair of scissors in the trunk for spot-on repairs.
<b>CONCLUSION:</b>
Consider your soft top rear window as a prized jewel, knowing that if it breaks you will be faced with a huge repair bill (if you can't put in an insurance claim) and significant inconvenience. So, the bottom line is--DO NOT PUT ANYTHING in the SOFT TOP STOWAGE AREA, unless you absolutely have to. And if you do, make sure to leave a visual cue (position items so they can easily be seen or put a Post-It on the rear window), to make sure you do not retract the soft top with anything still in the stowage area. Unfortunately, I had to learn this the hard way. I hope that my message will save at least a few people some $$$.
09-06-2006, 12:13 PM
#208
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VAG oil specs and applications
Volkswagen Group Oil Specifications and their Applications
VW 500.00
This is an "old" oil specification and is applicable to engines built before model year 2000 (up to August 1999)
Viscosity ratings: SAE 5w-40, 10w-40 or 20w-40
This oil can be used in all petrol and some diesel engines, apart from those referred to under other specifications.
VW 501.01
This is another "old" oil specification with exactly the same application as
VW 500.00.
Viscosity ratings: SAE 10w-40, 15w-40 or 20w-40
VW 502.00
This oil can only be used in petrol engines and is recommended for those which are subject to arduous conditions. It must not be used for any engines with variable service intervals or any which are referred to under other specifications.
Viscosity ratings: SAE 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40
VW 503.00
This is a relatively new oil specification for petrol engines with variable service intervals. It includes the AUDI S4, but not the RS4, or the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
VW 503.01
A new oil specification specifically for the RS4, and the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp, Passat W8 and Phaeton W12.
Viscosity rating: 0w-30
VW 505.00
For all diesel engines prior to model year 2000 (August 1999)
Viscosity rating: 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40
VW 505.01
For all diesel engines with unit injectors (Pumpe-Duse or PD) without variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 5w-40
VW 506.00
For all diesel engines except those with unit injectors, with variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
VW 506.01
For all diesel engines, including those with unit injectors, with variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
VW 500.00
This is an "old" oil specification and is applicable to engines built before model year 2000 (up to August 1999)
Viscosity ratings: SAE 5w-40, 10w-40 or 20w-40
This oil can be used in all petrol and some diesel engines, apart from those referred to under other specifications.
VW 501.01
This is another "old" oil specification with exactly the same application as
VW 500.00.
Viscosity ratings: SAE 10w-40, 15w-40 or 20w-40
VW 502.00
This oil can only be used in petrol engines and is recommended for those which are subject to arduous conditions. It must not be used for any engines with variable service intervals or any which are referred to under other specifications.
Viscosity ratings: SAE 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40
VW 503.00
This is a relatively new oil specification for petrol engines with variable service intervals. It includes the AUDI S4, but not the RS4, or the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
VW 503.01
A new oil specification specifically for the RS4, and the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp, Passat W8 and Phaeton W12.
Viscosity rating: 0w-30
VW 505.00
For all diesel engines prior to model year 2000 (August 1999)
Viscosity rating: 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40
VW 505.01
For all diesel engines with unit injectors (Pumpe-Duse or PD) without variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 5w-40
VW 506.00
For all diesel engines except those with unit injectors, with variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
VW 506.01
For all diesel engines, including those with unit injectors, with variable service intervals.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w-30
09-08-2006, 11:08 AM
#209
Coil Pack replacement, Bolt-In in type...
<img src="http://www.loomknitting.com/auditt/images/coilpak.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://www.loomknitting.com/auditt/coilpak.html">Coil Pack replacement, Bolt-In in type...</a></li></ul>
09-09-2006, 10:19 AM
#210
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JustJeff posted this solution
Sit in the car.
Make sure the over-head lights are on.
Turn the car on, start the engine.
Turn it off.
Lock the doors with the key fob.
Unlock the doors.
Open the drivers door.
Shut the door.
Start the car.
The lights should go off.
Make sure the over-head lights are on.
Turn the car on, start the engine.
Turn it off.
Lock the doors with the key fob.
Unlock the doors.
Open the drivers door.
Shut the door.
Start the car.
The lights should go off.