ChrisTTiaan

expensive $200 for all 4. mmmm........

But what about this process??
"
6 Breaking in, the "Burnishing Process" . . .



After prepared and treated rotors are re-installed to their original positions, test drive the vehicle braking very gently from 20 mph to 5 mph without coming to a stop. Repeat 10 times. Then brake normally from 40 mph to 10 mph. Repeat 10 times. Allow one-half mile cool off between slow downs. No "panic stops" for the first 300 miles. If you are breaking in new rotors, park your car for one hour, after above slow down cycles. A gradual cool down, for one hour, avoids warping your rotors.
"

anyone here done this?

UnspoilTT

I did it. The hardest part was finding a place where I could do it.

sjcTT

Worked good for me. Basically repeated hard stops until you experience fade and then let them cool by driving on the freeway.

FasTTr

stop squealing for about 100 miles. But it always came back. Finally switched to Mintex red box. Others have had no problems with Porterfield. It seems most of those did not have stock rotors (though not all...)

Not trying to bad mouth the Porterfields but you should know. Also Mintex 1/2 the price of Porterfields. A little more dust than the Porterfields but still much less than the OEM.

The Mystro S4

Life is too short for thoes kind of instructions.

swiTT

Pagid orange pads for the track. They are considered racing pads and the procedures for these are "90 to 65 with moderate pressure, 3-4 times, followed by 110 to 65, with medium to heavy pressure, twice. I found a place to do it, but I wasn't comfortable. The brakes really work well.

Lloyd of the Rings

Yes, it's time consuming, but worth it.