TToplessTTs

I was installing the rear Eibach/Bilsteins/KMAC's tonight after getting the front's done yesterday. Damn, the rear is harder for me than the front's. I had a time getting the lower control arm aligned in order to get the KMAC bolt back through the hole. Finally got that and now the big problem. When I was reattaching the 21mm bolt through the sway bar and shock I had a hard time getting that bolt aligned and stripped the bolt and possibly the hole in the hub. They both look damaged but the bolt does still start and go about 4-5 turns before locking up. The damage to the hub threads is at the start of the thread so if it is severely damaged, would the bolt even get started? I'm hoping it's just the bolt, but what are my options if the hub is stripped? Also, if it's just the bolt, does anyone have the size so that I can purchase one?

MCPaudiTT - DEFCON 1

out hole, with a nut on the back side. Can't help you with specifics, but I am pretty sure it is now an English-threaded part, so more options should be open to you. Make sure to get a good bolt, though, not just a Home Depot special. It needs to get torqued to factory specs, and transfer the load to the shock and anti-sway bar.

TToplessTTs

Also where is a place to get an appropriate bolt?

Damwatsyoname

you would want to take the bolt with you to measure you can get a tap and dieset at most auto part stores that would be a quicker yet more expesive way but a good tap and die set is good to keeparound

Audiboy

Then take this bolt and bolt it in from the other side of the hub (the brake side). If you are lucky, the threads (4 to 5 of them) will stretch back into place. If not, you will need a 14mm tap to fix it, and again, fix it from the other side so that it will follow the undamaged threads before it fixes the damaged ones.

Once you get this all squared away and to not repeat damage, remove the swaybar link from the top of the rod. This will allow you to easily insert the lower 21mm bolt without the swaybar and it's stubborn bushing forcing the angle of the bolt. And next time, only use finger power to thread anything in. Once you feel you have a few threads in, then the wrench comes in. This is true for bolting in anything - like lugs

Audiboy

me to make a new stud in place of that 14mm bolt (21mm head).

TToplessTTs

Of course I'll also need a new bolt. After the damage was done I realized that I should have just disconnected the sway bar's tension. And I did start with trying finger tightening, but I thought if I put enough pressure with the ratchet, that I could force the alignment of the bolt. Oh well, too little too late now. I see Advance has a metric tap and die set... it just doesn't say what sizes. I'll have to look around to see what I can find tomorrow.

Thanks again for the info.

Damwatsyoname

you can always have the bolt measured so you canuse the right tap or you can drill it out and do the nut and bolt idea..if i recall theres been a couple of people that had a problem with that bolt snapping so getting a shorter bolt i think would be dangerous

Audiboy

same thread/pitch size. I'm guessing it's a 1.25 pitch. So the dealer maybe your only choice...
Or some Honda's use this type for engine mounts, but you'll have to search around.

If you get a bolt from a hardware store, make sure it's grade 10.8 or higher.