Power limits of OEM 1.8T components (Sticky)
06-22-2017, 04:31 PM
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Power limits of OEM 1.8T components (Sticky)
I did NOT write this!
I found it while doing research at VWVORTEX forum and though people would find it usefull.
Author: kingREPTAR
A list of generally accepted, safe, limits of OEM engine components, as a sort of “What to Upgrade: For Dummies.” Please help add to the list! Lets try to consolidate the “how many horsepowers on stock ___” threads.
Fuel control with standalone systems, water meth injection, etc etc will almost always allow for greater thresholds, and theres always some lucky bastard who revs to F1k on stock exhaust valves and doesn’t break a thing; this is more about the average thresholds of OEM parts while maintaining some modicum of reliability.
Im using the term “power” to describe a measure of force, be it HP, torque, or RPM.
Head
-OEM head bolts-
Recommended not to run past 400whp
OEM bolts are stretch bolts, so theyre highly apt to expand and result in head lift in high power apps.
-OEM exhaust valves-
These suck. Recommended not to rev past 7200rpm or use on a 400+chp setup, and they don’t handle high temps well at all.
-OEM intake valves
Good for 800-1000whp
-OEM Springs and retainers-
Recommended not to rev past 7200rpm.
-OEM Hydraulic lifters-
Begin to float at the mid 9k rpm range.
-OEM intake valves-
People regularly push 20Vs into the 800-1000chp range without upgrading intake valves.
-OEM Cams-
OEM cams make good power up to about 7.5k RPMs on anything comparable to a GT3071. They’re still decent after, but anything more and big cams will make a huge difference.
Block
-OEM rods-
Torque is what bends rods
300lb/ft on a spikey, sudden onset setup, with a larger and therefor slower spooling turbo rods actually suffer less abuse.
-OEM Pistons-
Recommended replacing for over 550chp
AEB and AWD pistons have 20mm wrist pins and can handle more power.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...on-power-limit
-OEM Main studs-
????
-OEM Rod bolts-
90% of rods come with ARP2000 bolts. Don’t only do rods/only do rod bolts, that is stupid.
-OEM rod and main bearings-
Recommended to replace above 8200rpm or 500whp, or any time you touch them since they’re only ~$30 more than OEM ones.
Bearings don’t have a constant oil flow, and will occasionally be left to run on their own. Pitching your car around a bunch of corners with a non dry-sump oil pan will decrease oil flow on bearings and therefor increase wear.
-OEM flywheel bolts-
Start to chatter and loosen at ~500chp, or ~8000rpm.
Running a viscous crank pulley will greatly alleviate the chatter of the flywheel and therefor increase the power threshold of the oem bolts.
-OEM timing equipment-
The hydraulic tensioner sucks, replace it with the IE manual kit.
The plastic impeller water pump sucks, replace it with a metal impeller pump.
The OEM belts have seen insane power levels, opinions on upgrading (aka Gates Racing) belts are highly divided.
-OEM crank pulley-
Recommended not to run past 8000rpm/500chp
After the aforementioned power levels stock crank pulleys will cause crank vibration, robbing your engine of HP and torque, and decreasing reliability. Fluidampr pulleys are expensive, but so is sending your crank through the side of your block.
Accessories
-OEM injectors-
AEB -
AWP/AWM/AWD -
TT225 -
-OEM fuel rail+FPR-
???
-Mk4 Engine Mount
Good for 250 ft lbs torque, then should be replaced with a total replacement mount
-Mk4 Transmission Mount
Good for 250 ft lbs torque, then should be replaced with a total replacement or a poly insert
-Mk4 dogbone
Dogbone good for ridiculous horsepower. Insert good for 250 ft lbs torque
-02j axles on mk4
Good for 300 ft lbs torque. This number goes down as your axle angle increases due to lowering your car. If you can keep suspension geometry correct via drop spindles or otherwise, the 300 ft lbs number stays true.
-02m axles on mk4
-MK4 stock 2.25" exhaust
The choke points on this are the resonator and the cat. Launch control should not be used on the stock exhaust. The stock muffler is known to blow up when you utilize launch control
-06a or 058 crank gear
This is good for 400whp+. However, when high RPM's are regularly involved (7500+) it would be smart to dowel pin this gear or replace it with a steel crank gear
-02m shift forks
-02m slave cylinder
I found it while doing research at VWVORTEX forum and though people would find it usefull.
Author: kingREPTAR
A list of generally accepted, safe, limits of OEM engine components, as a sort of “What to Upgrade: For Dummies.” Please help add to the list! Lets try to consolidate the “how many horsepowers on stock ___” threads.
Fuel control with standalone systems, water meth injection, etc etc will almost always allow for greater thresholds, and theres always some lucky bastard who revs to F1k on stock exhaust valves and doesn’t break a thing; this is more about the average thresholds of OEM parts while maintaining some modicum of reliability.
Im using the term “power” to describe a measure of force, be it HP, torque, or RPM.
Head
-OEM head bolts-
Recommended not to run past 400whp
OEM bolts are stretch bolts, so theyre highly apt to expand and result in head lift in high power apps.
-OEM exhaust valves-
These suck. Recommended not to rev past 7200rpm or use on a 400+chp setup, and they don’t handle high temps well at all.
-OEM intake valves
Good for 800-1000whp
-OEM Springs and retainers-
Recommended not to rev past 7200rpm.
-OEM Hydraulic lifters-
Begin to float at the mid 9k rpm range.
-OEM intake valves-
People regularly push 20Vs into the 800-1000chp range without upgrading intake valves.
-OEM Cams-
OEM cams make good power up to about 7.5k RPMs on anything comparable to a GT3071. They’re still decent after, but anything more and big cams will make a huge difference.
Block
-OEM rods-
Torque is what bends rods
300lb/ft on a spikey, sudden onset setup, with a larger and therefor slower spooling turbo rods actually suffer less abuse.
-OEM Pistons-
Recommended replacing for over 550chp
AEB and AWD pistons have 20mm wrist pins and can handle more power.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...on-power-limit
-OEM Main studs-
????
-OEM Rod bolts-
90% of rods come with ARP2000 bolts. Don’t only do rods/only do rod bolts, that is stupid.
-OEM rod and main bearings-
Recommended to replace above 8200rpm or 500whp, or any time you touch them since they’re only ~$30 more than OEM ones.
Bearings don’t have a constant oil flow, and will occasionally be left to run on their own. Pitching your car around a bunch of corners with a non dry-sump oil pan will decrease oil flow on bearings and therefor increase wear.
-OEM flywheel bolts-
Start to chatter and loosen at ~500chp, or ~8000rpm.
Running a viscous crank pulley will greatly alleviate the chatter of the flywheel and therefor increase the power threshold of the oem bolts.
-OEM timing equipment-
The hydraulic tensioner sucks, replace it with the IE manual kit.
The plastic impeller water pump sucks, replace it with a metal impeller pump.
The OEM belts have seen insane power levels, opinions on upgrading (aka Gates Racing) belts are highly divided.
-OEM crank pulley-
Recommended not to run past 8000rpm/500chp
After the aforementioned power levels stock crank pulleys will cause crank vibration, robbing your engine of HP and torque, and decreasing reliability. Fluidampr pulleys are expensive, but so is sending your crank through the side of your block.
Accessories
-OEM injectors-
AEB -
AWP/AWM/AWD -
TT225 -
-OEM fuel rail+FPR-
???
-Mk4 Engine Mount
Good for 250 ft lbs torque, then should be replaced with a total replacement mount
-Mk4 Transmission Mount
Good for 250 ft lbs torque, then should be replaced with a total replacement or a poly insert
-Mk4 dogbone
Dogbone good for ridiculous horsepower. Insert good for 250 ft lbs torque
-02j axles on mk4
Good for 300 ft lbs torque. This number goes down as your axle angle increases due to lowering your car. If you can keep suspension geometry correct via drop spindles or otherwise, the 300 ft lbs number stays true.
-02m axles on mk4
-MK4 stock 2.25" exhaust
The choke points on this are the resonator and the cat. Launch control should not be used on the stock exhaust. The stock muffler is known to blow up when you utilize launch control
-06a or 058 crank gear
This is good for 400whp+. However, when high RPM's are regularly involved (7500+) it would be smart to dowel pin this gear or replace it with a steel crank gear
-02m shift forks
-02m slave cylinder
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